Hey guys...just got back from trying to get my car inspected. The guy told me that because of me disconnecting the battery his tools wouldnt recognize the OBDII stuff....then he told me to go talk to honda about it. Im not trying to pay honda to do something that I very easily could do. I checked my helms manual, and it said to pull the 7.5 amp backup fuse for 10 seconds, but I think that sounds like resetting the ECU agian...anyone have any experience with this or any insight??? He plugged in right by the under dash fuse box where they would plug in the Honda Diagnostic Tool thing....anybody know how to make that work agian after the battery has been disconnected???

 

what are you talking about??? inspection???? i dont get it obdII stuff??? what obd2 stuff exactly?

 

I beieve he is full of crap. Disconecting the battery should just delete the stored codes. With the car fully warmed up pull the fuse you talked about to reset the ECU then start the car and let it idle for 5-10 minutes, then drive the car for about 30 miles. The ECU "learns" the nominal sensor outputs and compensates appropriately. What he is talking about is the readyness code needs to be reset. I have never heard of having to take the car back to Honda to get the diagonostic port to communicate.

 

Yeah, when you reset the ECU, it clears out the monitor test results. Just go drive around for a little while, stop and let the car cool down, go drive back to inspection station. The 2-trip method should set the readiness flag.

 

We see this all the time. It's like the above guy said. When you disconnect the battery, the codes are cleared. However, it takes anywhere from 10-30 miles to complete a drive cycle. This allows time for the sensors to communicate to the ECU "what_is_up". If a sensor is found to be faulty, another code will be set, and the MIL will light. This "ready result" indicator is part of the inspection and will pass if a drive cycle is done, or it will fail if it has not been completed. It is implemented in the inspection procedure to prevent cheating the system.

We still get a lot of people who try to disconnect the battery to turn the MIL off and they think they are golden. When they come back they get a very rude awakening. They just lost their second "free" chance along with the 39.50 they initially paid.

 

I dont really know what the deal was...because my battery hadnt been disconnected in quite a while. I pulled the backup fuse like the Haynes manual said and everything was good!!! (p.s...damn 39.50 is a lot for inspection!!!, mine was only 22.50 before the sticker!!)

 

Pulling the battery cable off OR back-up fuse = same results. You have cleared the readiness monitor by doing either.