and a bump! I need this mo fo solved

 

ok, first, go buy an oil pressure guage. if its telling you you dont have the correct ammount of oil pressure to engage the vtec solonoid i would believe the computer. with that check engine light on it(ecu) may bypass the solonoid all together to avoid further problems. next is check the continuity on the wires leading in, and exiting the solonoid while at the rmp range where vtec would engage. but like i said, splurge this one time and buy an oil presure guage. i would personnaly believe the ecu before anything else.

 

Alright man I went out and added my oil pressure gauge! Its up to 75psi when i start it! and stays around 20 when its warm! Ive checked the wiring and for continuity on the vtec pressure switch! all is good? What the hell is going on here?

 

You try taking the vtec solenoid out and cleaning it ?

 

no not yet! I didnt think the solenoid had anything to do with the pressure switch! I would most likely get code 21 if my solenoid was bad! Right?

 

Do you know what code 21 is ?

Code 21
vtec Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
* invalid code for non-vtec engine
** invalid for V6 engine

Try cleaning it out and see what happens.

 

yeah exactly! But it had nothing to do with code 22!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah exactly! But it had nothing to do with code 22! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean it had nothing to do with code 21, well if you oil pressure is fine then it has to be a wiring problem.

 

well when i jump the plugs... the cel goes off! its not wiring.. its got to be something mechanical

 

Well in the manual it basically says its the ecu, an open in the circuit or the oil pressure switch.

 

Check all vacuum and pressure hoses before you spend any more money!

The sound that changes near VTEC will be the VVI system (Variable Volume Induction - flapper valve sys) opening up.

Seriously, Really spend some time on the hoses; that code covers the whole VTEC system!

 

alright once again i went out... this time i took off the whole vtec system! And cleaned it out with carb cleaner! Reinstalled and again the vtec pressure code comes up! I try one more time with jumping the harness... of course the cel goes off! Now remember i havent driven the car without the vafc before! The vtec engages way late otherwise! I take it up to 5900 where vtec is suppose to hit.. it does seem to me activating when i jump the switch but its not loud or pulls very well. when i disconnect it.. it doesnt do anything! Could it be im just use the having the vtec activate at 5000... and 5900 is way to late and in this case doesnt give the loud whine and pull. or is something really wrong! Im almost thinking of reinstalling the V-AfC.

 

i know it sounds dumb but maybe your vss is loose and isnt reading the rpms correctly...

 

maybe too much oil?

 

Yeah the oil is fine! The VSS is perfect! im out of ideas!

 

Im not that familyer with the V-AFC but Its taking control of the VTEC so im presuming it must have a set engage and disengage point. The disengage point must be lower than the engage point.

Also, check the unit is recognising the rpm input on tacho display mode.

 

once again the v-afc is disconnected! It is back to factory! Its jun spec chipped also

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C8V6C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine did the same thing, it even went out in third, but you said you checked all your wiring. My prob was the wire that read the rpm level. The simple way to figure out whether this is your prob would be to have the monitor read the rpm level and if it stays at zero or doesnt move all the time, you'd have my prob. Plus, <U>the wire coulda grounded out somewhere</U> , just not visible, like under the carpet. Mine was where it was soldered.</TD></TR></TABLE>

read the underlined....

 

Yeah the carpets pulled back! The ecu is laying on the carpet at this time. I resolderd the wires and used shrink wrap! The harness is getting voltage.. so there are no breaks in the wiring.. the only thing i can think of is that the switch really is bad! but when i tested it for continuity i put my meter on ohms! it reads 1. and when I put it on the pressure sensor itself it reads 0 like it should! so im not sure.. i tryed my sensor off the f22 but the harness did not snap onto the sensor! it should have but for some reason it did not.. i put the plug on that one the best i could so at least im thinking it was touching and it still came up with the code.. obviously it doesnt mean it was or wasnt getting the connection

 

well i thought i would let everyone know Im a dumb ***! Seems that when i did my swap I didnt hook the vtec pressure harness up to the sensor correctly! The plug that goes on the vtec pressure switch is blue/blk brown/blk! I had a blk and green wire on to it! Im a dumb ***! Wouldnt you think where the solenoid harness comes out... the vtec pressure switch harness should come out to right? yeah i guess not! The plug is about a foot away! I just still cant believe that it worked fine before! Im thinking my cars is Ill at times.. Heres my next problame thought.

Hey everyone i just had a quick question! I just resolved a problem i had with my cars vtec.. Ive never ran this car w/o my vtec controler on. I have always setup the h22 to enage at 5000. the ecu i have in my car i bought off ebay and it was jun chipped i believe like a 5700 or 5900 vtec engagement and what not. Well tonight after figuring out why i was getting a vtec oil pressure code. I took it out for a test drive.. w/o the vafc on! It just didnt seem to roar like it does at 5000 or pull anything like it.... Is this normal and indeed that you can have vtec engage to late? im hoping that there is not something else wrong.