Car is an EF chassis with LS-Vtec - B18b bottom with B16 head, GSR cams, OBD 1 vtec distributor, Hondata s300

I repalced my distributor (Including cap, rotor, ignition coil, ICM, and CKP sensor) because I was getting a CEL for camshaft position sensor. Before replacing the distributor the car ran and started fine, had not had a problem with it starting whether it was warm or cold. The problem I'm having is that when the car is cold, it will start up just fine and STAY running until I turn it off. I have NOT had it turn off by itself and I have run and driven the car for over 30 minutes. If I turn it off when the car is at normal operating temp (>150), it will NOT turn back on untill the engine cools down. It will crank but still not start.

As I said the entire distributor is brand new. I read that this is typically caused by a faulty ignition coil or ICM, however I have tested both of those components in the NEW distributor per the FSM and they both check out just fine. I have not checked the main relay but regardless, when the car is warm and wont start, I can hear the fuel pump and main relay click. I have confirmed that the coolant temp sensor is working correctly by comparing what Hondata said to my AutoMeter water temp gauge. I also confirmed and set proper timing when I replaced the distributor - I used the setting in Hondata to fix the electronic timing the 16 degrees and then I set the mechanical timing to the same via rotating the distributor.

The car ran with no problems, aside from the CEL for the CKP, untill I replaced the distributor.

Can any provide an insight on where I should look next?

Thanks in advance

UPDATE
FIX: Main relay replacement solved this issue.

 

Did you try to swap igniter or icm from old distributor? My obd1 had bad cylinder sensor new one threw misfire codes, changed ignitor and icm and it worked.

 

Check if you got actual pressure when it's not starting. That's what matters.

 

Ignitor was tested good, and I tried the old distributor as well and it no longer works either. The day that I swapped it, I had the same issue I am having now with the old distributor. When I get off work tomorrow morning, I am going to swap out the main relay and give that a shot.

I know I can hear the fuel pump, however, I have read that it will sometimes cut power to the injectors instead of the fuel pump (depends on the car and wiring). So that could be my issue. Weird thing is, is that typically it throws a code for the injectors not having voltage and I have yet to get one. But I'm gonig to try it anyway.

If it isn't the main relay then it really has to be fueling related. I've already changed/tested pretty much everything electrical.

 

Actually the main relay does supply battery to the injectors in addition to the fuel pump so it is possible.

 

I'll be sure to post an update when I find the cause. But i'm really leaning towards it right now given I have a brand new distributor and most fuel related problems have different symptoms.

Untill earlier tonight, actually after I made this thread, I didn't know that the main relay also supplied power to the injectors. Only after stumbling across some wiring diagrams and other threads, did I gain this knowledge.

 

+1 for main relay. i had a similar issue and kept blaming my distributor and every month i would warranty a new 1, and it would run great for a few weeks. But eventually my fuel pump didnt prime and i knew my main relay was to blame this entire time.

just unplug the main relay, take the plastic case off, and look at the soldering thats prob melted and running into everything. Junkyard or buy a new 1 for like 30 bucks, and test it out

 

It did end up being the main relay. I took the old one apart, nothing looked bad but I bought a new one anyway and she had been good every since. I was going to resoldier the old one, but I haven't had luck with that holding up in the past. Just glad to have it fixed, thanks guys.

Edited the original post with fix for future members with similar issues.