its a STOCK 91 civic DX 1.5 SOHC i changed the coil inside the dizzy to a new one and still does'nt start or spark check the plugs/wires too, timing is on the dot and fuel delivery is there so what can it be any help is great thanks in advance.

 

any GURU's in right now?

 

could be ur fuse..checc thaT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6cusco10pt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and still does'nt start or spark... timing is on the dot...</TD></TR></TABLE>If it doesn't spark, how did you check timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k00lt1nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be ur fuse..checc thaT</TD></TR></TABLE>which one i checked most of them that has to do with engine or ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it doesn't spark, how did you check timing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>i checked the timing at the crank and cam gear everything lined up so its not off.

 

Ah, sorry. I thought you meant you had checked spark timing.

If you're getting fuel delivery (injectors firing) then your CKP, CYP, & TDC sensors in the distributor must be working OK. Fuel pressure in the rail doesn't prove anything if the injectors aren't firing.

Any CEL codes stored? Actually, I'm not real sure about a '91 for it's ability to store error codes during a non-start problem...

Do you have a way to check the signal from ECU to the ignitor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ah, sorry. I thought you meant you had checked spark timing.

If you're getting fuel delivery (injectors firing) then your CKP, CYP, & TDC sensors in the distributor must be working OK. Fuel pressure in the rail doesn't prove anything if the injectors aren't firing.

Any CEL codes stored? Actually, I'm not real sure about a '91 for it's ability to store error codes during a non-start problem...

Do you have a way to check the signal from ECU to the ignitor?
</TD></TR></TABLE>i can't figure it out anymore could it be the ignitor, does that start the spark or is it the coil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6cusco10pt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can't figure it out anymore could it be the ignitor, does that start the spark or is it the coil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it could be, swap it and see.

usually if you have fuel and no spark; its either the coil or ignitor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6cusco10pt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can't figure it out anymore could it be the ignitor, does that start the spark or is it the coil?</TD></TR></TABLE>Could be either one. It's supposed to work like this...

The ECU sends a signal to the ignitor, which is some kind of an isolation amplifier. The ignitor fires the coil. The ignitor is there to prevent voltage spikes from the coil, so they don't go back & fry the ECU.

You can measure resistance across the 2 circuits in the coil, but sometimes a bad coil will test OK by this simple test. I haven't seen a good simple test for the ignitor except to swap in a good one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be either one. It's supposed to work like this...

The ECU sends a signal to the ignitor, which is some kind of an isolation amplifier. The ignitor fires the coil. The ignitor is there to prevent voltage spikes from the coil, so they don't go back & fry the ECU.

You can measure resistance across the 2 circuits in the coil, but sometimes a bad coil will test OK by this simple test. I haven't seen a good simple test for the ignitor except to swap in a good one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i gonna change the ignitor and see what happens. is there anything else in the dizzy that i can change out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6cusco10pt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... is there anything else in the dizzy that i can change out?</TD></TR></TABLE>How about the cap & rotor themselves? Back to basics?

You can check inside the distributor cap. There's a little spring-loaded graphite tab right in the middle, where it presses on the center of the rotor. Make sure that hasn't disappeared. The 4 poles under each plug wire can maybe get all full of crusty crud? There's a wire embedded in the plastic, connecting the coil to the center of the rotor. Can that thing burn up??

The rotor can go open circuit, then it doesn't make contact from it's center out to it's tip.

Or maybe you can just get a new cap & rotor, they're sorta cheap & they don't last forever.

There's also a little spring on top of the coil, so it makes contact with the cap. Missing??

There's even some wiring blade connectors that plug in the ignitor & coil. Anything loose or pulled apart?

 

thanks alot for your reply's i appreciate it i'll keep this updated

BTW: its my dad's beater just trying to fix it so i don't have to take him all over town that sucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6cusco10pt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW: its my dad's beater just trying to fix it so i don't have to take him all over town that sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL. Father/son bonding! Sometimes I've just gone ahead & taken my daughter's car...

 

too lazy to mess with it today so maybe tomorrow i'll try to figure it out.