no fire in two cylinders
HELP!
ok i have a 94 b18b1
darton sleeves 2.0
golden eagle stroker kit
gsr girdle
and arp head studs
i picked up i semi built head (ls head)
just valve train an we swaped the motor....... well the swap went as most swaps do an we start it up no check engine light but the motor is lobing hard we notice that cylinder 2 an 4 are firing but 1 and 3 arent we changed dizzys spark plugs an wires still getting spark an full but lobing hard i think the head is warped an my aka friend screwed me on the deal which i will deal with later is this possible the head is warped not cause compression in these two cylinders this is a brand new built block!
ok i have a 94 b18b1
darton sleeves 2.0
golden eagle stroker kit
gsr girdle
and arp head studs
i picked up i semi built head (ls head)
just valve train an we swaped the motor....... well the swap went as most swaps do an we start it up no check engine light but the motor is lobing hard we notice that cylinder 2 an 4 are firing but 1 and 3 arent we changed dizzys spark plugs an wires still getting spark an full but lobing hard i think the head is warped an my aka friend screwed me on the deal which i will deal with later is this possible the head is warped not cause compression in these two cylinders this is a brand new built block!
I had a similar problem with a b20 I shoved into my car. The first time around I had no compression in #1. I replaced the headgasket and had compression in #1 but not in 2,3,4. AND the timing belt snapped at 3k. Got a new belt and head gasket and threw em in. Now the engine runs fine.
I wouldnt jump to conclusions just yet. A headgasket isnt very expensive and it may be worth it to just try it again and see what happens.
Theres alot of stuff you can search on to narrow down what your problem is. I.E. valves, headgasket, rings, etc. I'd post it but I cant remember enough to give you reliable advice. (because I'm dumb)
I'd check compression if you havent too, the tool's real cheap and available at any auto parts store.
I wouldnt jump to conclusions just yet. A headgasket isnt very expensive and it may be worth it to just try it again and see what happens.
Theres alot of stuff you can search on to narrow down what your problem is. I.E. valves, headgasket, rings, etc. I'd post it but I cant remember enough to give you reliable advice. (because I'm dumb)

I'd check compression if you havent too, the tool's real cheap and available at any auto parts store.
this is a fresh build everything but the head this build cost me a arm in a leg its a gloden eagle stroker kit darton sleeves a gsr girdle installed into a ls i mean i just wished i milled that head i think it may be warped!
Right, my point was don't jump to conclusions. Theres alot of posts here that will help you narrow down what the problem is. examine how your engine is behaving and do a search on the exact issue that you see/hear.
Be more specific on how what the problem is. Have you done a compression check? Are you leaking oil? and noises it makes? etc.
Be more specific on how what the problem is. Have you done a compression check? Are you leaking oil? and noises it makes? etc.
sounds stupid but are your plug wires on the cap in the correct order. My buddy did that once and thecar would run but not get fire to cylinders 1 and 2. just thought i'd throw that out there.
its getting fire the head i found out came off a block which i just seen was from hell... the rings on it are shot so i think the only reason it even held compression to that motor was cause it warped to the block this is a fresh built bottom end an i havnt cut a corner besides this damn head which yea i should of had decked thats my bad from trusting a friend but i think its possible bent valves an extremely warped it makes no since i have no check engine light an i'm getting fuel and spark but only two cylinders are firing?
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bump the motor has spark and fuel an two cylinders aren't firing could it be the head? i'm think i was scammed on a warped head i mean nothin is adding up to why those two cylinders arent firing when timing and everythign is dead on?
bump could it possible be we torqued the head to molly lube specs also i didnt know which was used so we torqued them to the molly lube specs for arp an not the 10w30 specs which is a diffrence?
look i broke in the motor an pulled it before an sold my built head for some cash to get my turbo an stuff the bottom end is fine i think the head i picked up from my friend is fucked and warped, the rings are set on the bottom end so i took a completely stock head i had to the shop today to have it decked an milled flat an start again from there
Checking your compression will tell you if you have a problem with your head being warped, bad headgasket, bad cam timing, and bent valves. The first thing you should do is check your compression to see if it's a head problem or other problem, ignition, fuel etc...
i'm not tryin to be ignorant on the compression check, but there is fuel and spark in all four cylinders the timing is dead on an rechecked along with ignition timing and my other friend said he thought that head had been warped is why he tried to ditch it without me knowing it. i mean for the motor to run fine before when it was broke in, to now after the old head was pulled an sold an this goin on causing problems is telling me this head is a issue after checking everything else pluse not even havin a check engine tells me its somthin mechanically not somthing malfunctioning with ignition or somthin else. so i have spark, fuel, and timing that is dead on, and a head on the motor that is the only thing that has changed since the break in period..... makes me think the head is the issue weather its warped or has valve lash i dunno so i took a spare head i had up to the machine shop had it milled and decked to be safe this time is all an if it doesnt work i'll comp test.
put a dollar bill against ur exhaust with the car running.......if it trys to suck it in the tail pipe u've got a valve not seating properly.....it takes 2 seconds to do so id give it a shot
your def doing things the hard way. you should have taken 30 min to compression check it and find out if/where it is leaking from.
Modified by NathanielH at 10:53 AM 3/30/2007
Modified by NathanielH at 10:53 AM 3/30/2007
So if all four cyl. are firing and all 4 injectors are giving you fuel/ What issue are you having.
Is there a Miss present at idle?
Bottom line a Compression test/ followed by a Leak down test will give you the exact location of your problem.
When you do your comp test run a dry one first and follow it up with a wet one.
Is there a Miss present at idle?
Bottom line a Compression test/ followed by a Leak down test will give you the exact location of your problem.
When you do your comp test run a dry one first and follow it up with a wet one.
did the comp check the head that was on there was fucked we all got a laugh when i took the intake off an seen this friend of mine tried to port his own head it looked like with a air chizzle....... so i took my stock head up to my shop had it decked and a valve adjustmen, and put everything back together. timing is dead on an the spark plug wires were put back in by the book but the car just back fires when we try to start it???? i wish i had a stock dizzy on this but its a msd so i dont know if the msd is being gay or what???
You really just need to do a compression check right now and let us know what it is - this will tell alot - also line engine up on timing marks again this will put the #1 at tdc - then pull the dist. cap and see where your rotor is pointing on the cap that point will be where you start the firing order will be #1#3#4#2 clockwise - on the engine #1 being closest to cam gear and #4 being closest to dist. That way there is no doubt your firing order is wrong - let us know
Modified by base-op.1320 at 10:38 PM 4/2/2007
Modified by base-op.1320 at 10:38 PM 4/2/2007


