Nissan question - stalling problem
Well we've been trying to solve this problem on all the Nissan boards known to mankind and no one can solve it... so I try Honda boards now.
The car: 1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R, automatic, SR20DE engine, bone stock. Problem is, when the engine's completely cold and you put it in reverse or drive and let the idle carry you forward or backwards, the idle will begin to destabilize, eventually bucking up and down from 500-1500 rpm, until the car stalls. The car is basically undriveable unless you let it warm up for 5 or 10 minutes in the morning. If you put it back in Park the idle will stabilize.
No codes thrown, Nissan can't figure it out... help a brutha out please
Video of the stalling
The car: 1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R, automatic, SR20DE engine, bone stock. Problem is, when the engine's completely cold and you put it in reverse or drive and let the idle carry you forward or backwards, the idle will begin to destabilize, eventually bucking up and down from 500-1500 rpm, until the car stalls. The car is basically undriveable unless you let it warm up for 5 or 10 minutes in the morning. If you put it back in Park the idle will stabilize.
No codes thrown, Nissan can't figure it out... help a brutha out please
Video of the stalling
alright, I used to own a maxima and there are some common problems that people had that affected their idle. Hopefully the sr20de is similar. So here are some suggestions...
engine coolant temp sensor - make sure contacts are clean- swap it out with another one
check the IACV-AAC valve
check the MAF - black box sensor on the air inlet tube, make sure the wires are not loose or corroded, possibly swap it with a known good one.
engine coolant temp sensor - make sure contacts are clean- swap it out with another one
check the IACV-AAC valve
check the MAF - black box sensor on the air inlet tube, make sure the wires are not loose or corroded, possibly swap it with a known good one.
We've just checked both the ECT and IAT sensors and they were fine. We removed the IACV assembly and cleaned it (it was already really clean) - no change.
I'll see if I can get a MAF to test it
I'll see if I can get a MAF to test it
possibly the o2 sensor? this guys symptoms are very similar
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=161126
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=161126
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broke@$$tuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a guess, you might find more help on a nissan web site forum, DOH!</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well we've been trying to solve this problem on all the Nissan boards known to mankind and no one can solve it... so I try Honda boards now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hooked on phonics worked for me, how about YOU try it sometime?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well we've been trying to solve this problem on all the Nissan boards known to mankind and no one can solve it... so I try Honda boards now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hooked on phonics worked for me, how about YOU try it sometime?
Hey tilt (or anyone that knows about OBDII electronics):
Can we test the O2 sensor potentially being fugged by unplugging it - causing a code to be thrown and the car to revert to saved fuel maps? If the O2 sensor is the problem, and we tell the ECU to ignore the O2 sensor by unplugging it and throwing a code... wouldn't that help 'test' the problem without actually replacing the sensor?
I'm not sure where the sensor's located on the car, so I'm not sure how easy it would be to test with a multimeter - just looking at all our options. Thanks!
Can we test the O2 sensor potentially being fugged by unplugging it - causing a code to be thrown and the car to revert to saved fuel maps? If the O2 sensor is the problem, and we tell the ECU to ignore the O2 sensor by unplugging it and throwing a code... wouldn't that help 'test' the problem without actually replacing the sensor?
I'm not sure where the sensor's located on the car, so I'm not sure how easy it would be to test with a multimeter - just looking at all our options. Thanks!
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2000civicsi
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That's very encouraging!

