Need Serious Help... burning motor oil
I have been having problems ever since i rebuilt my engine with burning motor oil, and i am running out of ideas as to why...
Here is the engine:
H22a4 block, type S pistons (11:1)
H22a1 head, built (valves, springs/retainers, stage 1 skunk2 cams, mild pnp)
Here is the history..
Once i initially noticed I was losing oil at a fast rate, I found that I had a SMALL oil pan leak and that I had 25% leakdown in the #1 cylinder. The leakdown was found to be due to ever so slightly bent valves (this is from the hydrolock which was the reason for the rebuild of the block (totally new block).
After that, I went ahead and bought and installed a new oil pan, i noticed after a week, i was still losing oil, but a much lower rate. Found this to be from a slight leak where not enough silcon was used to seal the pan. (BTW I did another leak down of the cylinder which was found to be 4%)
It is now another week later, and I am 2 quarts low on oil. HELP ME!!! What are some causes of oil to burn?
Symptoms:
here is where it gets weird... NO normal symptoms, the car runs great, Idle is nice and smooth, vtec kicks in loud. However I have not had the car tuned since the rebuild, could this cause issues? It is also running rich in the upper RPMs for sure, I know this due to black smoke when I drop gear and lay the gas hard (aka heavy acceleration)
Here is the engine:
H22a4 block, type S pistons (11:1)
H22a1 head, built (valves, springs/retainers, stage 1 skunk2 cams, mild pnp)
Here is the history..
Once i initially noticed I was losing oil at a fast rate, I found that I had a SMALL oil pan leak and that I had 25% leakdown in the #1 cylinder. The leakdown was found to be due to ever so slightly bent valves (this is from the hydrolock which was the reason for the rebuild of the block (totally new block).
After that, I went ahead and bought and installed a new oil pan, i noticed after a week, i was still losing oil, but a much lower rate. Found this to be from a slight leak where not enough silcon was used to seal the pan. (BTW I did another leak down of the cylinder which was found to be 4%)
It is now another week later, and I am 2 quarts low on oil. HELP ME!!! What are some causes of oil to burn?
Symptoms:
here is where it gets weird... NO normal symptoms, the car runs great, Idle is nice and smooth, vtec kicks in loud. However I have not had the car tuned since the rebuild, could this cause issues? It is also running rich in the upper RPMs for sure, I know this due to black smoke when I drop gear and lay the gas hard (aka heavy acceleration)
what type of rings are you using?
Also, are you sure all rings are installed correctly?
Not trying to flame, just asking because it can happen.
Also, are you sure all rings are installed correctly?
Not trying to flame, just asking because it can happen.
are you blowing smoke from the exhaust or leaking oil from under the car? i can tell you to do everything everyone else told me to do from a previous build. check pcv valve, compression test, you know, the basics. were the cylinders honed for the new block and did you have the block checked for roundness?
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i just had the same prob, i ended up having to get new pistons and rings due to way to much clearance....i was goin through 1 quart every two to three days.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1BadCvC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just had the same prob, i ended up having to get new pistons and rings due to way to much clearance....i was goin through 1 quart every two to three days. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you have a bad leakdown/compression test??
Did you have a bad leakdown/compression test??
You can have oil consumption AND almost no leakdown and still have a ring problem. The oil consumption is controlled by the oil control rings, and the leakdown by the compression rings. I have seen an engine rebuild where the oil control ring was folded over on install. Guzzeled oil by the liter, but compression and leakdown were both OK.
I got another idea, is it possible that the valve guides could be bad? I mean the head is the only thing i didnt replace anything in (minus the valves for the cylinder that locked).???
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