turbo sol

so i decided I would fix my oil drip (very minor leak) by putting in a new oil pan gasket. I also figured it would be a good time to check out everything down there since my build. the block has around 3k miles on it. vitara/eagles in a z6.

i noticed some lines on my piston skirts (as much as I could see)


and I also noticed some flakes in my oil pan. (there looks like there is more than is there)


I have good oil pressure, doesn't burn any oil and it runs fine. do I need to be worried?

thanks guys

SPOOLINmatt

could have run lean once i dont know what your tune history is though. Might as well ride it until it starts smoking bad then take it apart and figure it out for the next build.

turbo sol

i also had a thought.

my motor was built by me after purchasing several bad d16 blocks. perhaps when I cleaned out an oil pan I didn't get it all, and now that there is oil back in it, the bearing material from under the baffling "floated" free?

I plan on taking a look at the piston walls with a camera through the spark plug hole to really assess the condition.

SPOOLINmatt

Fancy! I need to get one of those optical cameras for that ****.

NonovUrbizniz

Did you change the oil after your broke it in??

When was the last oil change?

I'd suggest pooring out the oil in the pan and looking at the little magnet inside the pan... if there's a ton of material on there it's def. not a good sign.

I'd also suggest getting either a magnetic drain plug or one of those magnetic bands that go around an oil filter to ensure you're not sending shavings through the block anymore.

turbo sol

I did change the oil at 1000 miles. and then this is my 2cd change at 3k.

I am going to bore scope it tomorrow, and see if it is just the block notching causing it or if I have major issues with the cylinder walls. Nothing looked heated (discolored) underneath.

the pieces aren't magnetic. I tried to pick them up with magnet and it didn't work.
would a magnetic drain plug help?

mytj2000

Should be a third oil change? I usually change the break in oil after about 50 miles, get the rings set and bearings broke in then change the oil.

turbo sol

false alarm.

1. the debris is being chalked up to left overs from the spun bearing that locked up the block that I got the oil pan from. - no signs of over heating / discoloring / or issues with oil pressure.

2. ran a scope down the cylinders, nothing out of the ordinary, so maybe the notches? no signs of denonation, plugs look good and it has always ran great.

I did get a magnetic plug for my oil pan just in case.

oh and the oil leak I was trying to fix with the oilpan gasket was from the black box, I cut the oring when I installed it.

Thanks for all your help guys!

NonovUrbizniz

It's not really a false alarm... You have shavings in your oil pan... if the oil pump was running at any point when those were in there you've run shavings through you engine...

I'd recomend changing the oil after another 20-40miles and even probobly again after another 100 miles... just to be sure you work all the shavings out... whether they're there from the pan or from your own parts they're runing through the oiling system which is NOT good.

Also if those were spun bearings they would be attracted by a magnet... Mine certainly were... my GE Magnetic Drain Plug looked like the New Years Ball.

HiProfile

Oil & filters are cheap, motor rebuilds are not.

Did you notch it before or after honing/boring it? If after, that could be the issue. Any time you grind material away from metal, you get a bit of a burr protruding out. Being stronger than aluminum, the iron ridge will score the piston. If that WAS the case, it wouldn't hurt the cylinder much, just the piston. The ring will still be fine, but you'll have scored skirts.

turbo sol

you guys are right. I'll run an accelerated oil change schedule.

I change it 3 times over the next 150 miles. then go back to the regular 3k intervol.

I did notch it after the boring. so I'm thinking what your thinking HiProfile.