Need General Info on New LS/VTEC Swap
hey guys, i am planning to drop in an ls/vtec in my hatch here pretty soon and i believe i have all the information that i need for proper break-in, but had some questions about fuel pressure, oil weight, frequency of oil changes, etc and i'd like to see what other people have done. if you got a link to a tech site, honda-tech, hybrid-honda, etc, shoot it my way. thanks.
I have no links, but I can help some.
Use Honda oil and filter on your break in. After about 500 miles are on the motor, change oil. This gets rid of any metal shavings and dirt that have come about during the break-in and build up. I used a 2000mile break in period on my motor. For the first 100 miles, I kept it below 3000rpm. Then for the next 400 miles I kept it under 4000rpm, with the occasional blast up to 5500rpm. Then for the next 500 miles I kept it under 5000rpm, occasionally taking it to 6k. I never once redlined it until after the break in. For the last 500miles I drove it around just like normal, putting around town, with the occasional blast up to 7500.
Wait until after your break in period before you decide to use sythetic oil. I use 5W30 oil at all times. Make sure you change your oil at least once before your break-in period is over, or problems might arise. If you use sythetic, I've heard of people not changin their oil for 10k miles...I always change mine from 3-4k miles.
I have a mugen p28, and I left my fuel pressure at stock at idle. You might even want to lean it out a bit, but that really depends on your compression, etc. Just stay with stock fuel pressure through the breakin and play around with it later on. I had a stock d series fuel pump in my car, which failed, and caused my motor to detonate and crush the rod bearings. So I highly suggest that you upgrade pumps. If you look in the Best Buy forums, there are some good prices on Walbros, about $100 shipped.
Use Honda oil and filter on your break in. After about 500 miles are on the motor, change oil. This gets rid of any metal shavings and dirt that have come about during the break-in and build up. I used a 2000mile break in period on my motor. For the first 100 miles, I kept it below 3000rpm. Then for the next 400 miles I kept it under 4000rpm, with the occasional blast up to 5500rpm. Then for the next 500 miles I kept it under 5000rpm, occasionally taking it to 6k. I never once redlined it until after the break in. For the last 500miles I drove it around just like normal, putting around town, with the occasional blast up to 7500.
Wait until after your break in period before you decide to use sythetic oil. I use 5W30 oil at all times. Make sure you change your oil at least once before your break-in period is over, or problems might arise. If you use sythetic, I've heard of people not changin their oil for 10k miles...I always change mine from 3-4k miles.
I have a mugen p28, and I left my fuel pressure at stock at idle. You might even want to lean it out a bit, but that really depends on your compression, etc. Just stay with stock fuel pressure through the breakin and play around with it later on. I had a stock d series fuel pump in my car, which failed, and caused my motor to detonate and crush the rod bearings. So I highly suggest that you upgrade pumps. If you look in the Best Buy forums, there are some good prices on Walbros, about $100 shipped.
Hey bro check out http://www.c-speedracing.com they have a how-to section for lsvtec's and b20vtec's. Also you can check out http://www.B20vtec.com they also have good info. Good luck.
i guess it would help if i added the following information then. i plan to have some standard bore b16b pistons installed along with a set of b16b camshafts. i know i need to upgrade the fuel flow, will an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator do fine or should i also upgrade the fuel pump and later on down the road, get some 310 cc injectors? thanks.
either shotpeened ls rods or some eagles...i prefer crower econo's because they haved better rod bolts that eagles...but if you looking for the chep way out just get some stock ls rods w/ arp rod bolts.
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eagles are good but the arp rod bolts are small!!! go w/ the crower econo billets the fixed the problem w/ the eagles...they are actauuly the same exact rod except crower takes the rod and makes the holes bigger for bigger arp rod bolts...not to go against eagless..but if i were putting down any sorta cash id front the extra couple bucks to go w/ the crower econo's...but what am i talkin about id rather fron the money and pick up the crower bigger rods!!! used or new for alsmost double the price...good luck w/ your purchases
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