my axle boot ripped...
i was doin a little inspection to my car and I noticed grease everywhere....then I saw that my axle boot is ripped open....my question is, will I be able to drive around for one more day?? I dont even know how long its been like that. I need to go to school tomorrow and work...then im gonna get the axle replaced...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx91integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if it does make the knocking noise
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Than you're in luck because you get to replace the axle.
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Than you're in luck because you get to replace the axle.
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Holy crap! When my boots (both outers) exploded, I went to Honda dealers and purchased new boots (all 4). I think all that stuff cost me about $150. I can't believe you can get a complete driveshaft for $55!!! They are like $200 new (and that's even a pretty good deal), and I thought I was getting a good deal because I did the work myself. And the work sucked ***. So messy!
You will have to rent a couple tools from AutoZone. One is kinda like a pitman arm puller (there are two very similar pullers available, but only one works) for the ball joint. And another tool I recommend highly is a locking bearing puller. You NEED the locking. those stupid pullers suck without the locking mechanism. It is very expensive to rent, but it's free once you return the tool.
Oh, don't forget a torque wrench. And you need a breaker bar and brute strength to remove the spindle nuts from the wheels. Acutally, I had to have a friend hold the brakes while was lying on the ground pushing a 24" breaker bar with all the strength of my right leg, and I have done quad presses for over 500lb.(250 one leg)!
Oh, and be careful, because I think I damaged my differential's left oil seal, so now my transmission leaks.
You will have to rent a couple tools from AutoZone. One is kinda like a pitman arm puller (there are two very similar pullers available, but only one works) for the ball joint. And another tool I recommend highly is a locking bearing puller. You NEED the locking. those stupid pullers suck without the locking mechanism. It is very expensive to rent, but it's free once you return the tool.
Oh, don't forget a torque wrench. And you need a breaker bar and brute strength to remove the spindle nuts from the wheels. Acutally, I had to have a friend hold the brakes while was lying on the ground pushing a 24" breaker bar with all the strength of my right leg, and I have done quad presses for over 500lb.(250 one leg)!Oh, and be careful, because I think I damaged my differential's left oil seal, so now my transmission leaks.
Get a remanufactured one for $60, and you get a lifetime warranty. You will save a lot of time, as all you have to do it pull the axle and put the new one on; no messy grease everywhere. IMO, it's the most logical thing to do if you value your time and money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackEG_Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will have to rent a couple tools from AutoZone. One is kinda like a pitman arm puller (there are two very similar pullers available, but only one works) for the ball joint. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The way I always remove axels from now is to unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back. Its only 3 17mm bolts that connect it to the car versus the 17mm nut and pulling the ball joint No special puller or tools needed and you dont have to worry about damaging the ball joint.
The way I always remove axels from now is to unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back. Its only 3 17mm bolts that connect it to the car versus the 17mm nut and pulling the ball joint No special puller or tools needed and you dont have to worry about damaging the ball joint.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm trying to picture that.
unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm trying to picture that.
Instead of unbolting and pulling the ball joint at the bottom of the knuckle, you just unbolt the lower control arm from the car and leave the ball joint connected so the lower control arm is hanging off the bottom of the knuckle. Then you can pull the knucle back like you normally would to remove the axle.
I never persoanlly found a good puller that worked well(I know they are out there), and tie rod forks ruin the ball joint, my way is just 3 bolts(on my eg at least) and only takes a few minutes to unbolt instead of having to get a puller and mess with all that.
I never persoanlly found a good puller that worked well(I know they are out there), and tie rod forks ruin the ball joint, my way is just 3 bolts(on my eg at least) and only takes a few minutes to unbolt instead of having to get a puller and mess with all that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aron Parsons »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a remanufactured one for $60, and you get a lifetime warranty. You will save a lot of time, as all you have to do it pull the axle and put the new one on; no messy grease everywhere. IMO, it's the most logical thing to do if you value your time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea, I put a remanufactured halfshaft on my Civic and it worked great for 20k miles so far.
Good idea, I put a remanufactured halfshaft on my Civic and it worked great for 20k miles so far.
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Apr 23, 2006 08:52 AM




