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my axle boot ripped...

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Old May 20, 2003 | 02:43 PM
  #1  
See Are X's Avatar
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From: Va BiOtch, VA, USA
Default my axle boot ripped...

i was doin a little inspection to my car and I noticed grease everywhere....then I saw that my axle boot is ripped open....my question is, will I be able to drive around for one more day?? I dont even know how long its been like that. I need to go to school tomorrow and work...then im gonna get the axle replaced...
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Old May 20, 2003 | 02:47 PM
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Default Re: my axle boot ripped... (See Are X)

the magical answer to your question is Yes.

Go to autozone and buy a new one for 10 bucks.
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Old May 20, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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From: Lucedale, MS, US
Default

if it doesn't make a knocking noise when u turn there is nothing wrong, but if its ripped you need to replace the boot
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Old May 20, 2003 | 04:22 PM
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Default Re: (turbob18a1)

what if it does make the knocking noise
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Old May 20, 2003 | 04:26 PM
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Default Re: (88crx91integra)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crx91integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if it does make the knocking noise
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Than you're in luck because you get to replace the axle.

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Old May 20, 2003 | 05:18 PM
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Default Re: (sshaikh01)

what if after it knocks i say... "whos there?"
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Old May 23, 2003 | 09:20 AM
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redexchris's Avatar
 
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From: happy valley, PA, usa
Default Re: (88crx91integra)

i found an axle assembly at hondapartsstore.com, for 75 bucks free shipping
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Old May 23, 2003 | 09:23 AM
  #8  
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From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
Default Re: (redexchris)

just get a remanufactured from AutoZone or someplace for about $55 or so. I think $75 seems high from what I've seen axles go for.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 10:05 AM
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From: Rocklin, CA, US
Default Re: (SleeprCivic)

Holy crap! When my boots (both outers) exploded, I went to Honda dealers and purchased new boots (all 4). I think all that stuff cost me about $150. I can't believe you can get a complete driveshaft for $55!!! They are like $200 new (and that's even a pretty good deal), and I thought I was getting a good deal because I did the work myself. And the work sucked ***. So messy!

You will have to rent a couple tools from AutoZone. One is kinda like a pitman arm puller (there are two very similar pullers available, but only one works) for the ball joint. And another tool I recommend highly is a locking bearing puller. You NEED the locking. those stupid pullers suck without the locking mechanism. It is very expensive to rent, but it's free once you return the tool. Oh, don't forget a torque wrench. And you need a breaker bar and brute strength to remove the spindle nuts from the wheels. Acutally, I had to have a friend hold the brakes while was lying on the ground pushing a 24" breaker bar with all the strength of my right leg, and I have done quad presses for over 500lb.(250 one leg)!

Oh, and be careful, because I think I damaged my differential's left oil seal, so now my transmission leaks.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 10:46 AM
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Aron Parsons's Avatar
 
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Default Re: (BlackEG_Si)

Get a remanufactured one for $60, and you get a lifetime warranty. You will save a lot of time, as all you have to do it pull the axle and put the new one on; no messy grease everywhere. IMO, it's the most logical thing to do if you value your time and money.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 12:20 PM
  #11  
omahaturbocivic's Avatar
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From: Omaha, NE
Default Re: (BlackEG_Si)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackEG_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will have to rent a couple tools from AutoZone. One is kinda like a pitman arm puller (there are two very similar pullers available, but only one works) for the ball joint. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The way I always remove axels from now is to unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back. Its only 3 17mm bolts that connect it to the car versus the 17mm nut and pulling the ball joint No special puller or tools needed and you dont have to worry about damaging the ball joint.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 12:27 PM
  #12  
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From: Rocklin, CA, US
Default Re: (omahaturbocivic)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unbolt the whole lower control arm from the car and swing the whole assembly back.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm trying to picture that.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 01:07 PM
  #13  
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From: Omaha, NE
Default Re: (BlackEG_Si)

Instead of unbolting and pulling the ball joint at the bottom of the knuckle, you just unbolt the lower control arm from the car and leave the ball joint connected so the lower control arm is hanging off the bottom of the knuckle. Then you can pull the knucle back like you normally would to remove the axle.

I never persoanlly found a good puller that worked well(I know they are out there), and tie rod forks ruin the ball joint, my way is just 3 bolts(on my eg at least) and only takes a few minutes to unbolt instead of having to get a puller and mess with all that.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 01:51 PM
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From: Rocklin, CA, US
Default Re: (omahaturbocivic)

Cool, I'll check mine out. The puller that is shown in the service manual would work really well; it's a honda part.
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Old May 23, 2003 | 02:06 PM
  #15  
koco's Avatar
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From: Lost Wages Nevada USA
Default Re: (Aron Parsons)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aron Parsons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a remanufactured one for $60, and you get a lifetime warranty. You will save a lot of time, as all you have to do it pull the axle and put the new one on; no messy grease everywhere. IMO, it's the most logical thing to do if you value your time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea, I put a remanufactured halfshaft on my Civic and it worked great for 20k miles so far.
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