mr darcko

So my newly acquired crx needs an alternator, cool no problem right? Wrong. First problem i run into is the nut on the bottom bolt is stripped, more then any other stripped bolt i have ever seen in my life. It took me 3 days of trial and error to get the thing thing off i ended up having to go get those sockets that can only turn one way and even that took forever. So happy when i finally got it off thinking i can finally get this thing moving along. Well again i was wrong. The bolt that that nut was attached to will ****ing NOT come out. You're supposed to "gently tap it through with a hammer" Yeah my *** that **** is not going anywhere.

I really just want to get this done so i can go back to work, an alternator change should not take this long. Does anybody have any ideas as to what i could do? I was thinking a torch might heat it up and free it. I also tried rocking the alternator back and forth but once i got it forward i can't move it back my hands are way to big.

Any help is appreciated, this is the most stressful stupidest thing i have ever ran into. Thanks.

eg6nike

u can butane torch it a lil, pb blaster or wd40 to releive some surface tension im not sure if its possible but try taking off the bracket itself or cut through the bolt with a airtool cutting disc or maybe even a plasma cutter if u have one. jus make sure u dont hammer the **** out of it until u crack ur aluminum block.

its gonna suck with such little space to work with. good luck

mr darcko

Thanks man. i think I'm gonna give the torch a try. if that doesn't worjk then i'm just gonna hit it with a dremel.

mr darcko

Bump if anyone has another idea. Not sure the torch is gonna work but I'm going to pick it up now.

mr darcko

The torch had no effect...at all...What am i gonna do? This is ****ing crazy.

mr darcko

bumppp

02 accord

PB blaster, and let it sit for a while.

0HPTautosport

Cut it out with a cut-off wheel. I've had to cut the damn bracket before as well to get to the bolt that holds it on. I've got tons of brackets if you need one.

mr darcko

Yeah i might give that a try. In the mean time i'm gonna try just taking off the bracket. Thanks.

philthee1

jb weld a socket to it.......... you will lose the socket but get the nut off
o u got the nut off . nevermind lol

0HAMOTORSPORTS

air chisel???

mr darcko

Well i was just under there for like 2 hours. My car almost fell on me. QUESTION: All my tools and parts have been laid out on top of a tarp with another tarp over them but somehow some things got wet including my new alternator, this won't effect it will it? It didn't get soaked.

And as of right now i got the bolt to turn, only problem is the entire alternator moves with it, so **** it I'm just taking off the bracket. Only problem is out of all these tools i have the i don't have the wrench i need to take off the bolt right behind the alternator. So I'm gonna have to acquire one of those AND a new bracket with hardware, but **** it. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

mr darcko

Hey man how much you want for one of those brackets with shipping?

0HPTautosport

IDK...hows $15 shipped?

mr darcko

Fine with me...Ill pm you further info as soon as i get it all ready.

robmagix

I have the same problem with my 99 civic.
After spraying everything with WD40 and PB blaster for a week and using a pry bar to move the alt back and forth. Finally the alt moves using my hand. What I did last night was I jacked up the car then put a ball joint fork under the square bolt's head on the edge that sticks out.
Then I lowered the car and put the weight of the car on the bolt and it moved. I believe I broke the lock it had with the bracket. I sprayed it again with WD40 and will see if it comes out tonight.

robmagix

I got the alternator bolt out.
Damaged the bracket and then the next day damaged the alternators sleeve.
But its out.

I used the the fork tool to hit the living daylights out of the bolt.
Second pic is the broken alt sleeve.
The bracket should cost about $15.00
The alt bolt from Honda cost about $7.00
The alt shoulc cost me about $90.00 refurb.

grjr

cover the shank of the new alternator bolt in anti-sieze to help prevent the same problem in the future

duey11

I was in same boat...very far out to sea... But victory is mine! Ok I spent about 4 days 3 hours each day about 3 sessions each hour. Session was PB soaking nut side, bolt head side and inner sides/area between alternator and bracket-followed by a 10 minute soak, then dab off excess-apply heat with hand held propane/benzene torch along the bottom length of bolt, then the threaded end( I got the nut off earlier ), then cool with wet rag, then hammer and punch tapping. So did this cycle and finally it budged 2 mm. Then I got a crank strap and managed to loop the strap around the top 1/2 of the bolt head, and anchored the other end underneath at my passenger side 'A' arm suspension( anything solid would work I imagine)-I did this to put some tension to assist tapping from the opposite side. Tap tap..rachet tap tap rachet, tap tap tap tap- OUT. I hand sanded the surfaces, applied liberal amounts of anti seize stuff on new bolt and the inner openings on bracket.

It was hard getting alternator out but I loosened the fuel filter bracket and radiator heat/cold valve bracket and jumped on top of my engine and after a few rubics cube moves got it out from the passenger side-and new one back in. Did not even attempt to remove a bolt from the alternator/engine bracket as the heads started rounding and I was simply tired of working in a small space under the car( 5 inches of swing space for a hammer, let alone trying to hold a punch on the threaded end, which I finally power disk/sawed off, flush with the bracket to make punching easier- good golly!).

Point- Liberal doses of PB blaster, heat/cold, tapping, a tension device( crank strap in my case; could use a buddy and a pry bar to same effect -I was solo), a lot of patience and determination and TIME-that's why we are DIY to save labor costs right?

Also- oddly enough once together wouldn't start, but cranks.
Now here is a gem of advice-this happened once before and I changed fuel filter, re-soldered contacts on main relay, changed wires, plugs, cap and took in ignition coil to get tested-tested fine. Here is the kicker-good coil testing fine and 'blue' spark, fuel is there. Turns out there was some corrosion built up in cap shaft sheath where it makes contact with the coil, not enough to stop spark BUT ENOUGH TO DROP THE VOLTAGE REQUIRED TO GET AN IGNITING SPARK.

Tip-just clean the cap and contacts inside first...THEN go down the rabbit hole path like I did if that don't help.

Eddie Gale

I am running into this same issue on my wife's 99 acura .P O.S... UGGGGGG TRYING TO GET THE MOUNTING BOLT OUT