MSD ignition problems
I have a 96 Honda Accord EX coupe with manual transmission. I'm running a complete MSD ignition and spraying a 55 shot of N2O. I will list everything that I'm using, and everything I've done, to see if you can pinpoint the problem.
The MSD ignition consists of MSD distributor cap, Blaster SS coil, 8.5mm spark plug wires, 6ALignition, Start/Retard, Window Switch, and am using ZEX spark plugs. I'm also running an Autometer tach, air/fuel, and nitrous gauges.
I've only ran the car on nitrous once, before my stock clutch gave out. About a month ago, I installed a used AEM fuel rail and AEM fpr. Shortly after, my idle started looping/fluctuating erratically. So I pulled it and found that my seals were blown due to the nitrous. I have yet to re-install the rail and fpr because I plan on purchasing some aftermarket injectors and will install them all at once. A week ago, I retarded the timing 2 degrees. I failed to mark where the original setting was and now to my problem.
My problem has just recently come about. When driving, my Autometer tach will jump rpms (between 100 and 2000 rpms) and stutter, and sometimes backfire. But my stock tach is fine. With the hood open, there are clicking/popping noises that sounds like their coming from my distributor. I also touched one of the spark plug wires near the distributor cap and it gave me a nice little jolt. The other day, I was performing a compression test, and I removed the wire on the distributor cap that was coming from the SS coil. With the ignition in the ON position, motor off, it started makingthe clicking/popping noise, and it was lighting up around the distributor area. I think the problem is in the distributor cap.
I'm trying to get my car running right before I start spraying nitrous again. Any ideas?
Sorry for the long post
The MSD ignition consists of MSD distributor cap, Blaster SS coil, 8.5mm spark plug wires, 6ALignition, Start/Retard, Window Switch, and am using ZEX spark plugs. I'm also running an Autometer tach, air/fuel, and nitrous gauges.
I've only ran the car on nitrous once, before my stock clutch gave out. About a month ago, I installed a used AEM fuel rail and AEM fpr. Shortly after, my idle started looping/fluctuating erratically. So I pulled it and found that my seals were blown due to the nitrous. I have yet to re-install the rail and fpr because I plan on purchasing some aftermarket injectors and will install them all at once. A week ago, I retarded the timing 2 degrees. I failed to mark where the original setting was and now to my problem.
My problem has just recently come about. When driving, my Autometer tach will jump rpms (between 100 and 2000 rpms) and stutter, and sometimes backfire. But my stock tach is fine. With the hood open, there are clicking/popping noises that sounds like their coming from my distributor. I also touched one of the spark plug wires near the distributor cap and it gave me a nice little jolt. The other day, I was performing a compression test, and I removed the wire on the distributor cap that was coming from the SS coil. With the ignition in the ON position, motor off, it started makingthe clicking/popping noise, and it was lighting up around the distributor area. I think the problem is in the distributor cap.
I'm trying to get my car running right before I start spraying nitrous again. Any ideas?
Sorry for the long post
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