To make a long story short,
I have my fully built bottom and and fully built head that will be turboed. This project, costing me way too much, id be afraid to mess it up.
So I want to do the work on it myself, that way i can say i built it instead of a random shop putting it btogehter for me.

I had good engine builders build the block and head, top of the line guys. id hate to mess up my motor because of a minor mistake

Im having a very well known shop put the head on the block, doing the valve adjustmnet, and putting the timing belt on and the clutch.

That way all i have to do is put the tranny on the block, install turbo, manifold, all that...

Pretty much i have a swap here for me.... already has timng belt and everyhting is good....

What mistakes can i make that would cause the engine to be damaged or any other parts? Im having a really good shop put the engine swap together because i know timing belt and head on block thing is something you dont want to get wrong...

Someone told me not to get vacum lines confused with coolant lines, haha. im not that dumb...
someone said make sure theres enough oil in the engine, of course!!!!!
What mistakes should i watch out for? Thanks

Cliff Notes. i have a swap here in front of me, what is the riskiest thing ill be doing that can cause damage?
What to watch out for?

My buddy is helping me do the swap also, hes alot more technical than me, but i like taking part...


so throw your advice.
Thanks HT.

 

Since i bought the clutch through them, they are going to throw the clutch on also......

So i wont put the disc backwards or overtorque the clutch. haha.

We are putting on the dizzy, vtec solonoid, thermostat and thermostat housing....., cooling tube, etc

 

nobody?

 

if you are not really sure about doing anything right then dont even do it. Having doubts will cost you alot.

 

well when I put in by b16 into my crx the only problem I had was NO VTEC It was fixed by rechecking & playing around with some wires I think that u'd do fine!! heres a tip try making a to do list !!

good luck dude!!

 

hey man im not sure if this is going to help but sometimes the job you think is going to take you an hour takes you three. if you have never done anything your self on the car REASEARCH. im at the same point you are wanting to do it your self and not knowing what your getting into. this site has alot of helpfull things thorugh out it check them out and take you time don't rush because that's the # 1 thing that's gonna cost you!!!!

 

yes ive been researching day and night...

this is part of my research....

 

aight man keep up the reasurch good luck with your swap keep us posted !

 

so do u guys know of any mistakes or anything i should watch out for as i do the swap?

im afraid to make a mistake and then have it cause damage.

 

Ok, here is something I have learned to beat into my head. When the motor is bolted up and its time to start putting on hoses, wire connectors etc. Complete one thing at at time and stay focused. For example: dont put the throttle cable on and then get sidetracked or interupted with other stuff. You will forget to tighten the nuts or bracket later. Put the heater and radiator hoses on and pay attention to details like how they are routed and that the clamps are secure and tight before moving on. Lastly, double check everything. With honda stuff its all really simple, but bigger, more complicated motors that I deal with at work and this mentality becomes critical.

 

i put a put a b16 and a turbo in my car for my first swap. the only mistake was putting trust in my brother to push the axles in all the way. after i pressed them in all the way everything was good. oh the engine also hit a heater hose on the firewall and cracked it. it took like 3 hours to replace it because of the location. ( we were using a bobcat s300 to drop the engine in). other that that we did fine.

 

be sure to make sure all of your bolts are tight and that all of your grounds are connected.

 

dont eat the yellow snow!

before initial startup, disconnect ignition and fuel.
crank engine untill you register oil pressure or the dummy light goes off.
usually takes about 30 sec.


Modified by mmuller at 9:09 AM 2/24/2006

 

Nothing much to screw up on a swap. Bolt in the motor, attach coolant/vacuum lines, throw in axles. I can do a swap start to finish in about 3 hours. My first time probably took about 10.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tallyturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put a put a b16 and a turbo in my car for my first swap. the only mistake was putting trust in my brother to push the axles in all the way. after i pressed them in all the way everything was good. oh the engine also hit a heater hose on the firewall and cracked it. it took like 3 hours to replace it because of the location. ( we were using a bobcat s300 to drop the engine in). other that that we did fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do u mean by not pushing the axles in all the way?

 

you know when you push the axles in, and you feel a little pop? well he just didnt push it in all the way so when i put it in first and went to go it didnt move. when he put the axle in he didnt lift up the control arm to give himself more play in the axle to push it in farther. it was about 1/2 shy of being in all the way.

 

since it is a fully rebuilt engine, i recommend wen you start it up rev it at about 2000rpm for atleast 10mins, that it to get the oil circulated through all the channels in the block. some people would think you should let it warm up first, but i say if you dont let it circulate then there will be insufficent oil and the block can seize

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AL ASPIRATED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since it is a fully rebuilt engine, i recommend wen you start it up rev it at about 2000rpm for atleast 10mins, that it to get the oil circulated through all the channels in the block. some people would think you should let it warm up first, but i say if you dont let it circulate then there will be insufficent oil and the block can seize </TD></TR></TABLE>




When you start a cold motor, oil pressure is already maxed out for about 10-15 minutes while the oil fully warms up. Revving it won't do anything.

 

have the ECU tuned properly right away......even forged internals can melt pretty quick if your not tuned properly.