To mill or Not to mill head...
my motor is getting ready to be put back togther, this is my little problem... i thought i would be making higher compression , but after checkin out this link (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c.../compcalc.html)... i find out im left with only 10.8:1, thats with factory 3 layer head gasket and factory Piston-to-Deck Height being 020.0 .
ok so if i was to go with a 1 layer head gasket, that would knock me up to 11.4:1 , thats lookin alot better, but what if i was to also mill the head. to say 010.0 ... wich would bring me to 11.8:1
, my concern is im using a high lift cam (spec b). is this going to be to risky?
should i just get a thiner ghead gasket and stick with the 11.4:1 , or can i be safe with the milling and head gasket.
im an idiot someone help me
i have a b16a block with b16b pistons and b16a head
ok so if i was to go with a 1 layer head gasket, that would knock me up to 11.4:1 , thats lookin alot better, but what if i was to also mill the head. to say 010.0 ... wich would bring me to 11.8:1
, my concern is im using a high lift cam (spec b). is this going to be to risky?should i just get a thiner ghead gasket and stick with the 11.4:1 , or can i be safe with the milling and head gasket.
im an idiot someone help me
i have a b16a block with b16b pistons and b16a head
everyone is going to tell you to do it the right way and get higher comp pistons... i however will not..i say go for it.... 0.010 is not that much... im running JDM GSR block, milled 0.030 GSR head and skunk2 stage 2 cams, and its running like a champ...just make sure your piston/valve clearance is ok and you should be good
thats exactly what im posting about becuase i dont if the piston valve clearence is going to be to close, thats kinda what im looking for people to answer for me
I would do the headgasket first. If it's not good enough or doesnt work out then mill the head. The reason why is because there is no going back once you mill a head. Say in the future it overheats and warps, then you can just mill it. Why not get the head prep'd, ported and combustion chambers welded and cc'd. Then you can still do either.
i took .015 off my b16a head and put in 11:1 pistons (instead of 10.2:1) with no clearance problems with the stock head gasket. what is the lift and duration of that cam?
You have to shave a bit off your rods, check out the pic on here http://ff-squad.com/pistons.htm
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B16 head milled .030 and had the block decked... added JUN III and lost cyl. 3. Be extremely careful when you do this type of thing as you can really run into some issues. I should have clayed the motor before running it. Now, I'm going to rebuild the old B16 and put 12.5:1 comp in her... that should be safe.
how accurate is that site link i listed above? people are telling me with b16b pistons in a b16 block i should be seeing 11ish:1 for compression, that site is telling me im only gona see 10.8:1
just curious.... oh and i am using toda spec b's, i dont know the lift duration ff the top of my head, does anyone here know it?
just curious.... oh and i am using toda spec b's, i dont know the lift duration ff the top of my head, does anyone here know it?
my motor is getting ready to be put back togther, this is my little problem... i thought i would be making higher compression , but after checkin out this link (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c.../compcalc.html)... i find out im left with only 10.8:1, thats with factory 3 layer head gasket and factory Piston-to-Deck Height being 020.0 .
ok so if i was to go with a 1 layer head gasket, that would knock me up to 11.4:1 , thats lookin alot better, but what if i was to also mill the head. to say 010.0 ... wich would bring me to 11.8:1
, my concern is im using a high lift cam (spec b). is this going to be to risky?
should i just get a thiner ghead gasket and stick with the 11.4:1 , or can i be safe with the milling and head gasket.
im an idiot someone help me
i have a b16a block with b16b pistons and b16a head
ok so if i was to go with a 1 layer head gasket, that would knock me up to 11.4:1 , thats lookin alot better, but what if i was to also mill the head. to say 010.0 ... wich would bring me to 11.8:1
, my concern is im using a high lift cam (spec b). is this going to be to risky?should i just get a thiner ghead gasket and stick with the 11.4:1 , or can i be safe with the milling and head gasket.
im an idiot someone help me
i have a b16a block with b16b pistons and b16a head
so do you know for shure, that ctr pistons in a b16 with toda spec b's still has enough room to mill, kep in mind im going to be using a 1 layer HG, so that will make it even closer. i just dont want to mill the head then clay the motor and find out i went to far, just curious if anyone has perosnally tried this set up .
B16 head milled .030 and had the block decked... added JUN III and lost cyl. 3. Be extremely careful when you do this type of thing as you can really run into some issues. I should have clayed the motor before running it. Now, I'm going to rebuild the old B16 and put 12.5:1 comp in her... that should be safe.
What were the cam gear setting before you lost cyl. 3?
I'm sorry to hear you have break the engine, but the shop didn't clay the engine when he rebild it, it got me really worried.
Can anyone tell me what's 1 thous= ?mm.
thanks
[Modified by evo, 3:11 PM 2/13/2003]
[Modified by evo, 3:16 PM 2/13/2003]
I'm rebuilding the B16A milled 2 thous, CTR piston, Jun III and stock headgasket.
Did you use stock gasket or 2 layers??
[Modified by evo, 6:12 PM 2/13/2003]
first I want to say it's not how much lift you have that will determine if the valves are going to hit, it's duration. in other words it's not how far we open the valve but how long we keep the valve open.
It's my opinion, that first I would check Piston to valve clearence with the thin head gasket see how much room you have and make your decision from there before you mill anything-you can always take it off you can't put it back on
It's my opinion, that first I would check Piston to valve clearence with the thin head gasket see how much room you have and make your decision from there before you mill anything-you can always take it off you can't put it back on
Clay first, make sure to lock it in vtec so you get the higher lift profile. http://www.c-speedracing.com has a helper for that i think. This will give you an idea of how much room you have left. If you want to check if you can advance cams and whatnot, advance them past what you think you would use and reclay.
how accurate is that site link i listed above? people are telling me with b16b pistons in a b16 block i should be seeing 11ish:1 for compression, that site is telling me im only gona see 10.8:1
just curious.... oh and i am using toda spec b's, i dont know the lift duration ff the top of my head, does anyone here know it?
just curious.... oh and i am using toda spec b's, i dont know the lift duration ff the top of my head, does anyone here know it?
IN
250 (11.0) - 295 (12.0) - 250 (11.0)
TODA Valve Spring Kit
$490
EX
250 (11.0) - 285 (12.0) - 250 (11.0)
TODA Valve Spring Kit
$490
[quote]B16 head milled .030 and had the block decked... added JUN III and lost cyl. 3. Be extremely careful when you do this type of thing as you can really run into some issues. I should have clayed the motor before running it. Now, I'm going to rebuild the old B16 and put 12.5:1 comp in her... that should be safe.[quote/]
My b16 head is milled .030 and the block is decked .008 w/ITR pistons and GSR cams. I'm wondering if Running ITR cams is going to be a problem?
My b16 head is milled .030 and the block is decked .008 w/ITR pistons and GSR cams. I'm wondering if Running ITR cams is going to be a problem?
This is a little different question but maybe you guys answer it for me. Is there a "factory" mill listed for the head for a GS-R in the manufacturer's workshop manual or equivalent documentation? If there is do you know what it may be?
...well, since you guys jumped all over my last question, let me try another one!Assuming a very minor mill of the head (something between .010 and .008), this will effect my timing right? If I understand it correct this will shorten the distance between the crank and cam gears. This will end up retarding the timing a little bit correct? Are there any solutions for resolving this timing problem withOUT the use of cam gears?
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