so far im not throwing any cels. So thats good. i think. but when i drive it there is no power. i have a pr3 head and ecu, b18b block, p30 pistons, dc 421 head, arp everything. its not anything huge but its decent. So i drive it and in lower rpms it almost feels normal. but around maybe 3g it just doesnt have any power. i went to my vtec engagement point just to see if it would go and it did, but there was no more power when it engages if anything it gets less power. I talked to a guy and he said that it might be the timing off a tooth. But im not too sure that would make this much of a power loss. I mean this is like having a scooter engine in my car. it just putts along. My friend also said that it looked like it had black smoke come out when it accelerated but to me it looked like it was white smoke comming out constently. any help or advice?

 

Check your compression, and timing. You just might need a good tune.

 

could i do that at a shop? like just take it to a shop and tell them to check the timing and compression?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could i do that at a shop? like just take it to a shop and tell them to check the timing and compression?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, If you don't feel competitent to do it yourself.

I suggest you get a manual and DIY.. there is only one way to learn.

 

i have helms and chilton. its just i dont have the compression tester or the timing light. and after this swap im almost out of money. and im very anxious to get it running and im just getting really pissed off at my car. I just drove it and now the idle is back up to 2500-3000 and it doesnt hesitate that much. although it doesnt feel like it has everything behind it. just like there is a little bit of power loss. Im so confused right now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have helms and chilton. its just i dont have the compression tester or the timing light. and after this swap im almost out of money. and im very anxious to get it running and im just getting really pissed off at my car. I just drove it and now the idle is back up to 2500-3000 and it doesnt hesitate that much. although it doesnt feel like it has everything behind it. just like there is a little bit of power loss. Im so confused right now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For what a shop would charge, you can buy your own compression tester and a timing light...

Pull out your plugs and tell me what the electrodes look like. There should be a light tan color on the electrode. If they are black, then you are too rich.

 

yeah they are def. black. i pulled them before and cleaned them off to see if it would run better. Im probly just going to take it to a shop. Im not going to drive it anymore until i take it to a shop because it is obviously not working up to par so i dont want to ruin anything. Im just so freekin tired. Ive worked on my car for a good 50 hours this week and im just worn out. Unless someone has a def. answer then im just going to take it to shop.

 

You could have a plugged exhaust. It's easy and costs nothing to break it apart at one of the joints and go for a LOUD drive.

 

nothing was broken. i was on open header for a while and it still hesitated and had no power. the open header was why it was so freekin loud.

 

did you car missfire before u felt the power loss?

 

yeah, it seems to misfire a bit why?

 

check timing

 

the timing was dead spot on. the marks were perfect. I made sure they were after i ran it every time. Unless i did something wrong. But im pretty sure its good.

 

how about ig timing?

 

I had a similar issue and could not figure out what the hell the problem was for like a month. I had changed cap, rotor, spark plug wires, cat and still had the same issue. Car would just bog and lose tons of power. Finally being frustrated while it was bogging, I redlined it and dumped the clutch to get it to stop bogging. I felt the car jerk and suddenly threw a CEL and the car started redining at 3500. CEL was from a bad distributor. Changed it out with new OEM one and cleared the CEL. Never bogged again. This was in my old GSR (B17a). If you know someone who maybe has another distributor, give it a shot and see if it helps

 

hmmmm. thats interesting. I will try and see if that is the problem. I was afraid of red lining it although i did take it past vtec.

 

well, i have taken it to two shops now. The first one kind of fixed my idle problem. But it wasnt that something wasnt hooked up. it was something with my cold ilde valve or something. with the hose hooked up it idles high. and with it disconected and plugged off it idles low around 800. So that didnt make me too happy that it is something that is broken. That cost about 70 bucks to fix that. But i took it to another shop and they have no idea what is wrong with my power. they checked almost everything and they cant find anything. He says it all checks out ok. His only concern was that it was a 1.6 head on a 1.8 block and he thought it might not get enough air. but i havent ever heard of that. He said the timing was dead on. And nothing else threw up any signals. The only thing i can think of is the o2 sensors. if they werent plugged in would it not alow it to run well. The guy also said "its running richer than dog ****" which he said could be the o2 sensors not being plugged in. There wasnt anything to plug my o2 sensors onto on the dc header so i decided to just leave them off. Would that make it run different?

 

YES . your still running in open loop. also what type of ECu are you using . could be a bad chip if some one chiped it for u . if its a stock ecu . then try a different vtec one

 

Since your O2 sensor is not in the exhaust stream it is seeing fresh air so it is telling the ECU it is running very lean and to enrichen the A/F mixture. Get that O2 sensor connected up to the exhaust and that should fix your problem.

 

so i talked to the guy at the shop and he said that the fuel pressure is at 30 normaly and with vacume its at 40 then while driving for some reason it drops 10. He doesnt know what that means. He tested my filter, pump, and all that stuff and it all works fine from what he can see. Im running pr3 ecu, and i dont believe that it is chipped. The guy looked at it and he didnt see anything that was chipped. I had the b16 in there before and just swapped the block. It ran fine before but now its just not doing so good. Does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be? And does anyone know if the o2 sensors can be put anywhere on the header or does it have to be in the stock position? And there arent many other options i have for my ecu since it obd0. I was going to convert to obd1 later on but i might be forced to do it early to see if that is the problem.

 

dude you need to get the o2 sensor hooked up first thats why you are running so rich, way to rich and running like ****

 

yeah, i figured thats why i was running so rich. But are you sure that is why it could be running so much like ****?

 

ttt.... need some answers if there are any, oh and i apreciate the comments so far.

 

yeah dude, you air fuel ratio is all fucked so their is no way you are going to run good. it may not be your only problem but definitely a HUGE one

 

well i grounded out the o2 sensors so it wouldnt run so freekin rich, and it still doesnt run great. It might have made it run lean but its not running much better. When i push on the gas the rpms drop. like when i first started my car i pushed on the gas and it died. And even when im drivin if i push the throtle down it feels like the car slown then speeds up a little. How would i be able to fix my air to fuel ratio. Im guessing that is because of my compression ratio? Mine should be around 11.7 to 1 cuz i have p30s.