Purchased a chipped ecu from a user here awhile ago.
Im now wondering if too much fuel was taken out of the map...

Map is P72
Engine is b18c1 with est 10:1 compression (-3dish, 89mm stroke), no IAB

I dont know anything about reading ign/fuel maps. Sorry.
One person told me its 20% lean

Stock P72:


Mine, low and high respectively:

 

well, so many variables to account for... like how healthy your engine is, fuel pressure, barometric pressure which in turn affect VE, BSFC

more info would be nice

 

Its a brand new build. I havent even machined the parts yet.
Std 240cc injectors, std fuel pressure. Figure 1atm

 

you shouldnt be too worried, just get the car to a tuner and have it tuned.

on first fire up/heat cycles make your your wideband is there and its running smooth, afrs are nice, etc. then tow it to the tuner

 

I dont have a wideband - its not necessary at this point.

This is a temp map that I will be using in a DD, it was created to let me drive the car NA until I put all the FI stuff on, later.
Im not having it tuned this way, I just want to drive it as-is

 

so then put stock fuel, enable closed loop

 

thats not what i was asking, thanks

 

you obviously dont get it, NO ONE will be able to tell you if your car will run lean with that map over the internet..
everyone can guess and thats about it

 

BS. You cant tell me that no one can figure it, based on a standard.
Doesnt matter anymore. Ive had enough people tell me its fine elsewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have a wideband - its not necessary at this point.

This is a temp map that I will be using in a DD, it was created to let me drive the car NA until I put all the FI stuff on, later.
Im not having it tuned this way, I just want to drive it as-is</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I'm not a pro tuner by any means but I can tell you that it is going to run leaner than a stock P72. The fuel values are obviously lower in all the cells and there is no fuel multiplier added to the ROM. It is definitely going to run leaner than the images of the P72 map that you posted.

Who told you that a Wide Band is not necessary? I sure hope that your wallet can cover the lack of warranty that comes with trusting internet judgments. All chipped ECU's should have, at the very minimum, a Wideband street tune. Even if your just using it as a DD....Why don't people understand that chipped ECU's even with "Stock" Maps don't run the same..... Oh well you'll find out for yourself.... Good luck DD a high compression engine with no WB tune....And 10:1 with boost I hope your not thinking of tuning that yourself.

 

Sorry, did you read that its a temporary map.....?

I see no need for a wideband when there is no boost and the engine is at lower compression.
WHEN there is boost and WHEN I have a new map created, I will get a wideband. Until then, I see no point.

 

Sorry did you read that it doesn't matter how temp it is... Specially on a newly built engine. Why would you even take the chance...again we'll see you in a bit when your engine doesn't break in properly due to no tuning.

 

Three people, who run shops locally, specifically said the map is fine and not one disagreed that WB is not needed for this at the moment

 

You want to cheap it out that's your prerogative.

Again good luck with your no tune break-in

Over & Out 2 U!

 

I'll follow Earl's break-in procedure

 

wow ignorance is a bliss

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll follow Earl's break-in procedure</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing that you never really read Earl's break-in thread or you just didn't understand it completely..... I think it mentions Not to drive an un-tuned car a few times.

Here is a Refresher......

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be <FONT COLOR="red">ready for tuning immediately.</FONT> They will continue to seat better over a short period of time <FONT COLOR="red">but you should be ready to go tune right away.</FONT>

Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. <FONT COLOR="red">Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner.</FONT> In second position on the <FONT COLOR="red">“things NOT to do list” is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it.</FONT> Too lean an air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to do list”? Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.

Well I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your set-up. <FONT COLOR="red">It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time.</FONT> The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.

So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, <FONT COLOR="red">run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.</FONT>

But my engine was already tuned from my previous set-up. Well, what happened to your previous set-up? Did you melt a stock piston or crack a cylinder? No problem because now you have forged pistons and sleeves? Wrong. Although you now have stronger components that will take more abuse, you are still not right on your air fuel mixture. <FONT SIZE="3"><FONT COLOR="red">Get that thing tuned properly ASAP.</FONT></FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by GhostAccord at 10:17 AM 5/21/2008

 

no i read it afterwards, hence me posting it later