I Got A B16 In A CRX HF Converted To OBD1 Via Ry-wire

I Bought Some NGK-R Plugs, Drove Home Put Em In, And Adjusted My
TPS Sensor In Spec Because 'It Was Out, Then I Started My Car And
Immediately Threw A Code 3 "MAP" I Replaced the Sensor 3 Diff. Times
Reset My ECU And Still A Code 3. So I Changed ECU's, Same Thing. So
Last Resort I Hardwired All 3 Wires From ECU To Sensor, Same Thing,
Then Grounded The Ground Wire For Map To The Chassis, I Figured The
ECU Might Not Be Grounding It, Still Throws A Code, I Have No Vacuum
Leaks. This Is So Odd Seems How All I Did Is Change Plugs And TPS.

Anyone Have Any Suggestion Cuz I Need Some I Need My Car, I Dont Wanna
Drive It The Way It Is Because Its Running Really Rich With The Code 3

 

Test the sensor and see what it is doing. The following was cut & pasted from another post so I apologize for any info that is incorrect for your app, but I think it's about the same.

Warm the car up to normal operating temperature, set the brake and leave it running. Set a meter to 20v and wedge the black probe in the battery negative terminal. Pierce the sensor signal wire (red/grn) with the red probe. The voltage reading should correspond to the amount of vacuum being generated inside the intake manifold. On MT versions of your motor, somewhere between .4 and .7 volts would be a good reading at normal idle. Higher voltage at standard idle speed usually means a vacuum leak. Next, shut off the motor and turn the key to on. Pierce the sensor's power wire (yel/red). There should be about 5v. Remove the probes and set the meter to resistance. Pierce the sensor's ground wire (grn/wht) with the red probe and wedge the black probe in the battery negative. There should be no resistance. Any resistance is a problem with the ground circuit but miniscule resistances can often be ignored. Remember to turn off the meter, take your key back and you're done testing the MAP sensor.

 

ok tested it today, with the car at operating temp. i set my volts meter to 20v. put the black probe on the negative batt. terminal and pierced the signal wire and im getting 4.7ish volts instead of .4-.7v, so then i turned my car off and turned the key on #2 pierced the map power wire and im getting 4.9 to 5.0 volts which by this test is correct and the volts meter was still set at 20v setting. then i set the meter to resistance and pierced the ground wire and im getting 0.5-0.6 res. so in conclusion with this test im getting way to many volts at the signal, the power wires perfect and im getting a little resistance at the ground wire, so now next how do i fix this? since i have resistance at the ground how would i go about fixing the ground circuit??

 

For the resistance test, remember to multiply the reading by the number of ohms. Set to 100 ohms, a reading of .5 is 50 ohms. Of course, if it's set to 1 ohm then .5 is just .5. It is common for a ground to have a few tenths of an ohm resistance. It still means a less than perfect connection somewhere but it is in the "shouldn't cause any problems" range. It would probably get worse over time, however, and if it is from a loose connection, heat and vibration can make it worse temporarily. To find the resistance, you leave one probe in and move the other probe closer to its counterpart in steps along the circuit they are testing. If you leave black probe in the battery terminal, you take the red out of the sensor ground wire and follow the wire to its next connector. Pierce the ground wire on the other side of the connector. If the resistance is still there, then you haven't reached the cause yet. If the resistance is lower, the difference in the resistance values is being caused between where the red probe is now and where you tested the circuit at the sensor. When you find this difference in resistance, probe each side of the connector you just got to in order to see if the connector itself is the cause, which it often is. You probably get the idea. Testing circuits is usually a long and arduous process- set up a good playlist before you begin.

As for your signal voltage, your MAP sensor is showing full WOT voltage at what I assume was idle. With a brand new sensor, this should mean that it's not getting any suction in its vacuum line. You can try disconnecting the line and putting a finger over it. There should be strong suction. If there isn't, take the line off of the intake manifold and put your finger on the IM vacuum port. If the suction is much stronger then the MAP sensor vacuum line is the culprit. If not then you have a huge vacuum leak somewhere else.

 

If you have a hand-held vacuum pump available, you can apply vacuum to the MAP sensor with the engine off and key at on to see if the signal voltage registers properly and correctly corresponds to the pressure level.

 

well i dont have to trace the wires down to the ecu cuz i have it hardwired straight to the ecu with a solid wire, idk its just so odd all i did is change my spark plugs, ive tried everything and still no results

 

Sorry for not catching it earlier but you don't want to ground the MAP sensor directly to the car body. Reconnect its ground wire to the correct ECU pin and check its voltage readings again at idle after the engine is completely warmed up to normal operating temp. Please post what ECU you're using and which terminals the sensor is connected to. When you adjusted your TPS sensor, do you remember disconnecting anything? Did you check the MAP sensor's vacuum line for suction and/or make use of a vacuum pump? Testing it with a vacuum pump or in another car will show if the sensors were becoming damaged electronically or mechanically when hooked up in your car. The most important factor atm is the voltage that the MAP sensor is putting out at idle. Find the cause of that and you've solved your problem.

 

yeah when i posted my result everythiong was wire straight to the ecu and the ground wasnt on the chassis, now i dont have a vacuum pump, but to make sure i had vacuum i took the block off that i had on the nipple in the back of the intake mani and ran a hose from that tot he sensor i know its drawing vacuum, and all these sensors ive been trying work fine in other people cars so im stumped at this point im going to ru the test gain to see if i get the same results ill post them in a bit