well I guess I will list what problems the car is having..

1) check engine light is on(o2 sensor and iacv) fixed those.. iacv may still be messed up..

2) air/fuel gauge isn't reading right at all and I am 99% sure it's hooked up properly..

3) water temp gauge in cluster looks like it's extremely loose once the car is warmed up and bounces on bumps while driving

4) car bogs while accellerating and once turbo is spooled up it barely pulls..

5) probably something i did when i switched the dash out but I can't get my windshield wipers to work.. it only works when i pull it(ie when using sprayers)
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this i've done,

set ignition timing to white mark

checked plugs (light brown)

fuel pressure is set to 38psi(with fuel pressure vacuum attached)

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info

motor is a b18c1, 9:1 compression, crower turbo cams, 850cc injectors and revhard 2c, 3bar map sensor, hondata(was tuned for this setup before i installed the motor in my car), both cam gears are set to 0.


I hope somebody can figure out what's going on here.. this is driving me crazy

I know I should go to the dyno but the fact is I feel that it will be worthless if i don't have the motor even running remotely right.

Thanks in advance...

 

sounds is if you still may have an o2 sensor problem

 

What kind of A/F gague are you using and where did you wire it up to? And how did you diag the O2 sensor?

Derek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by derekcarr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of A/F gague are you using and where did you wire it up to? And how did you diag the O2 sensor?

Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an autometer A/F gauge. it's tapped into the white wire at the clip.. It worked on the motor it was on before this.. i did have to extend the wires on the o2 sensor in order for it to reach my downpipe.. I don't know if that has anything to do with the probs i'm having..

 

was it fine before u added the turbo kit?

 

did you use shielded wire when you extended the o2 wire? does it do it at open or closed loop operation.

 

i completely switched motors.. my old motor was an NA setup.. this one is FI.. as far as the wires i don't really know what you mean? they are wires I took off an alarm i had.. i had heard that since the wires are extended it may have to do with the resistance..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSlowR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i completely switched motors.. my old motor was an NA setup.. this one is FI..</TD></TR></TABLE>

heres the problem

u don t know how this swap was

double check the map and tps wires u probably have them backwards

 

Every added connection does add resistance to the circuit but I am not sure that is your problem. Now when you did the change from NA to FI did you wire things up correctly. I mean even the best of us can make mistakes you know. Recheck things and if they are all right then there is a real problem. Also is the hondata set up for your exact application? Was your car dyno tuned or was that just the program for a certain application?

Derek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HulkSmash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> does it do it at open or closed loop operation. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you atleast answer this. if it does it at open loop then you can eliminate the o2 sensor. you can easily check your map and tp senosr by unplugging the map or tp sensor. if the motor dies then the culprit is the sensor that's plugged in. do that to both sensors and you'll have your answer. hope this helps, if you want further explanation you can pm me. the reason why an o2 sensor uses shielded wires is to prevent rfi interference. my friend used regular copper wire to extend his o2 sensor and it failed immediately. took us a month to find out that the failure was due to the copper wires. A guy i work with told me that the problem was due to the wires. i think my friend bought the shielded wires from fry's electronics.

 

sorry for the slow response but i believe it does it closed loop.. leading me to believe it's the o2 sensor.. but i'm having a feeling it's because I extended the wires..i don't see how the o2 sensor could go bad from the time i removed it from my old motor and stuck it on this motor.. as far as IACV that's fixed now.. still get a check engine for o2 sensor.. on top of that i think my car starts to overheat once it's in closed loop..

also the wires i did use were copper wires.. so which wires do i need and will that fix my problem?


Modified by GSlowR at 2:53 PM 11/2/2004

 

hump