Did you try swapping the plug into another cylinder? Just a thought.

 

Yup... Tried that.... Same results regardless of what plug is in the #1 cylinder....

I just took her off the road and registered my new 89 Prelude... Oh what a joy this is going to be...

 

Unless the engine computer is bad (unlikely) there's no way for only cyl#1 injector to fire "at the wrong time." It either works or it doesn't. What it could be is a wiring problem, an intermitant open or short between the computer and inj#1. Another possibility is there's something different about cyl#1 injector. Try swapping it with another cylinder's injector and see if the problem moves.

I bet that'll reveal something new.

Maybe I missed it, but as others suggested, did you do a leak down test yet?

 

We tried switching the injector, and the problem stayed with #1... So that would almost surely indicate a problem in the wiring, correct???

 

As far as the leakdown test, no, we didn't do that... Definitely need to???

 

i was there when we were testing this car ... what exactly would a leak down test do for us ... and explain how to do it if possible ... im up for trying anything to get this car to run well ... if anyone can explain ill do whatever is necessary ...

 

do you have the firing order right

 

Hey jason......Go back and check the basic ****. like the firing order. and my next question is? did all this stuff start happening when you had the cams, s&r put in?? your swaps been in for a while now and it seems that if the wiring was wrong it would have surfaced before. If they installed the cams they had the cam gears off and they might have put the belt back on a tooth off in either direction?? before you go gettin all worried call up road toad and have the car checked my him. he did Jons cams and valve train and it might just be something simple. Ive had my share of problems with my boosted set up but finaly have the bitch running good..

I thought having a performance expert like kornel in your club you would have had is goin by now

 

Ok, heres the run down.
1. if the injector was firing at the wrong time then the plug would not be black because what is there would be igniting, even if it was puddling on the back of the valve
2. this indicates to me a stuck open injector or faulty wiring, however, since you swapped wiring and the injector itself to another cylinder and the problem stays with #1, then you have a problem with the #1 cylinder's compression or spark.
3. you say you have good spark and the plug is good, so that narrows it down to the compression of the #1 cylinder. either it doesnt have good compression, you have a stuck or sticking valve, or its leaking down through either the valves or the rings. did you replace the valves when you replaced the springs and cams?

oh yeah, and check the firing order again.

 

It could be the problem (leakdown/compression test is good to do). You could try running a wire direct from the ECU and see if that helps. Most obviously is have you checked the ECU for any codes? That could reveal a lot.... Also, did you try the screwdriver thing where you hold it to the injector? Are the valves properly adjusted on that cyl? Check valve clarence on em again just to be sure. If one if those is off, it makes your car run really crappy.

Good Luck

Blaze

 

yo man i would look up a wiring diagram on google of your ecu wire codes and follow it... pretty lame advice but thats what i'd try

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We tried switching the injector, and the problem stayed with #1... So that would almost surely indicate a problem in the wiring, correct??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, especailyl if #1 exh pipe is not getting as hot as the other 3 ... prolly low voltage or ecu driver burnt out ... check with volt meter and compare one of the other 3 inj harnesses

greg

 

any updates?

 

alright, im going to go out on a limb here! did the car run good b4 the cam?????
if it did i would say its the cam. put the old cam/springs back in-i know-that sucks!
then tell me how it runs! betcha it runs ok! ive seem this happen sooooo many times! people are human-to err is human! wrong cam maybe? made by someone who came to work hung over place you bought it from messed up? i say click the undo button and see what happens. i mean, after all if it ran even ok b4 then youll be doin much better anyway,right?

 

ok checked the injector with the screw driver ... checked the fireing order ... cams are in timeing ... only think is the valve could be stuck but ... would the compression check go well if it was stuck .. i mean we got good compression ... spark is there ... fuel is there ... ran alright b4 we did all this but something just didnt seem right ... i mean the car was fine it ran good and all but it did seem to be lacking a few hp ... but im realy not sure ... as for swapping it all back in ... i think b18c ej8 would wanna kill himself after all that ... but it may be the only way ... we were basically looking for anyting it could be and asking questions as to what to do .. you all have been a big help try to keep the suggestions comming ... we want this car back on the road ASAP and its looking pretty dreary ...


Modified by cnycivic at 10:45 PM 4/24/2003

 

put the old cams back in and see how it runs, that is time consuming but it is very obvious that you have tried everything else!! Just my $.02

 

Are the valves seated right in that cylinder? Did you recheck the valve clearences? Are the springs installed correctly?

I suggest just swapping the cams with the stock ones with the skunk2 valvetrain and see what happens. My guess is either faulty parts or improper installation.

 

do compresion test....

 

you do know the stage 2 cams do need at least 2 degrees of separation to keep the valves from hitting each other. you said the cam gears were readjusted to 0,0. this isnt good. also you need to do a valve job again and check your injector harness voltages with a multi meter. get back to us

 

You said you put Skunk2 valves in. You did get a valve job when you did that right? Valves are not a drop in part. You need to regrind the valve seats and valves when you change them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said you put Skunk2 valves in. You did get a valve job when you did that right? Valves are not a drop in part. You need to regrind the valve seats and valves when you change them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

 

Update time... Dropped the car off at another shop tonight, and we did a compression test on all 4 cylinders, and determined that probably none of the valves were seating correctly, because I had VERY low compression in the #1, and moderately low compression in 2, 3, and 4... (1,2,3&4: 160, 190, 205 & 210)

So, now begins the task of tearing it apart again and grinding the valve seats as should have been done to begin with....

Another question... I put new valve seals in last weekend, but now that the valves are probably coming out again, do I need a new set of seals? I just ordered some, but did I really need to? Can the ones from last week be re-used??? Thanks for your continued assistance!!!

 

After reading all of this, I must ask, DID YOU CHECK THE CAP AND ROTOR ON THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE DISTRIBUTOR ITSELF?
It cant me cam timing if everyother cylinder is good, most likley not fuel, not compression, that leaves one thing, spark, just because its getting spark dosent mean its getting the right spark, check wires too, even if they do work on #1, it may not be working good enough. If those are okay, then Im almost clueless, hope I helped.

 

Head is off, and I have two burnt valves on the intake side, and the seats are pretty bad on all 4 cylinders... Valve job and adjustment is in order, and hopefully, within a week or so (gotta wait for parts), I'll be back on the road!

Thanks guys for the help!

 

Glad to hear you found the problem. Good luck with your motor, hopefully will be very strong when it's fixed