lumpy low idle - feels like its gonna stall
ok here's the story (stock D16Y8 in an 00 coupe)
Had a valve adjustment done by the dealer - get the car back, seems fine for a few days.
Coming home from work one day, sitting at a light, I feel some vibration, look at the tach, needle is down around the red line near 0. This happens most noticeably when the car is halfway warmed up, although it still does it when at full operating temperature. The idle is really low, and there are irregular vibrations being transmitted throughout the body (can feel them in the seat, shifter, wheel, etc).
So I go home, play with the idle, get it running a little better - but I get IACV errors that night, and have to put it back. It was suggested to me that perhaps the valves were adjusted too tight, so I take it back in and have them look at it. The dude at the dealer feeds me some junk about Hondas not liking aftermarket plugs and wires (was running NGK blues and denso iridiums), and aftermarket parts hurting the engine (have I/H/E). They doublechecked the lash, everything was within spec.
So I swap in a set of NGK V-Power plugs, pretty standard - no change. Figured there was no need to change the wires - everyone seems to swear by NGK blues.
I'm looking for some ideas as to what is happening here, and how to fix it. There are no apparent vacuum leaks, and the car runs fine under load - it is simply an idle problem.
Had a valve adjustment done by the dealer - get the car back, seems fine for a few days.
Coming home from work one day, sitting at a light, I feel some vibration, look at the tach, needle is down around the red line near 0. This happens most noticeably when the car is halfway warmed up, although it still does it when at full operating temperature. The idle is really low, and there are irregular vibrations being transmitted throughout the body (can feel them in the seat, shifter, wheel, etc).
So I go home, play with the idle, get it running a little better - but I get IACV errors that night, and have to put it back. It was suggested to me that perhaps the valves were adjusted too tight, so I take it back in and have them look at it. The dude at the dealer feeds me some junk about Hondas not liking aftermarket plugs and wires (was running NGK blues and denso iridiums), and aftermarket parts hurting the engine (have I/H/E). They doublechecked the lash, everything was within spec.
So I swap in a set of NGK V-Power plugs, pretty standard - no change. Figured there was no need to change the wires - everyone seems to swear by NGK blues.
I'm looking for some ideas as to what is happening here, and how to fix it. There are no apparent vacuum leaks, and the car runs fine under load - it is simply an idle problem.
Is your computer shooting any codes? be sure to check your mounts ,check your fuel your ignition system, check your idle speed,check everything including timing. thats about it. As far as the evil hondaman tellin you that hondas dont like performance parts like ngk plugs and wires you can tell him I said B.S. unless you gapped it wrong. I never heard of someone saying some dumb **** like that.
Yeah, I'd say check your ignition and valve timing. Who knows...something could have gotten nudged. 
Have you changed your cap and rotor recently? They might need it. I just got my car inspected on Saturday, and my ECU was showing a few misfire codes. I'll be replacing my plugs, wires, cap and rotor as soon as my wires show up (got Accel Thundersports from Summit racing - what the hell, it cant hurt
).

Have you changed your cap and rotor recently? They might need it. I just got my car inspected on Saturday, and my ECU was showing a few misfire codes. I'll be replacing my plugs, wires, cap and rotor as soon as my wires show up (got Accel Thundersports from Summit racing - what the hell, it cant hurt

).
I just replaced the rotor and cap like a month ago, but I ordered another set just in case maybe one of them was faulty. Not getting any misfire codes or anything, its just acting real funny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by draco067 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just replaced the rotor and cap like a month ago, but I ordered another set just in case maybe one of them was faulty. Not getting any misfire codes or anything, its just acting real funny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definitely double check your ignition timing. The distrubutor could have gotten moved.
I would definitely double check your ignition timing. The distrubutor could have gotten moved.
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Got another distributor cap + rotor today (
for http://www.alloemautoparts.com, took them 2 days to get me my order), and it seems to have solved the problem. Guess the cap + rotor I put on had been faulty in some way. Thanks for the help.
for http://www.alloemautoparts.com, took them 2 days to get me my order), and it seems to have solved the problem. Guess the cap + rotor I put on had been faulty in some way. Thanks for the help.
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