So I got a real ball buster here,
basic run down,
97 civic EX Ls/vtec Turbo
ECU's tried: stock P73, hondata S300 P28, stock P72, stock P30 and what ever ECU came stock in the car, I wanna say P2P? Or maybe P2T

Okay so here is the issue I'm having, I just swapped my civic with a B18B/Gs-R head set up. When I go to start it, it runs for only like half a second if that. I have fuel pressure, 40-45 psi all the time. I'm running stock obd2 240 injectors, obd2 GS-R distributor. I reused the stock EX wire harness, just modified it to fit. everything plugs in except knock sensor and Crank Position Sensor. I've checked all grounds, everything is where it's supposed to be. I have a Locash Racing obd2a to obd1 conversion harness. I've already tried swapping out distributors with known good ones out of running cars. Timing is dead nuts on. When I hook up my noid light the pulse is bright when it starts then gets weak when it wont start, so I've established that its not opening the injectors. I can get it running by spaying starter fluid in a vacuum line, when it is running on starter fluid, it runs smooth so i know it's getting spark. anybody have any idea what could be going on? everyone I've talked to is stumped. As stated before it's not an ecu issue because I've tried about five know good ones. Any advice or help would be great thanks

 

I've also switched out the main relay with a new OEM Honda one, also the car does not have any kind of alarm system. I've also checked to make sure all injector clips are plugged into the right injectors. I'm only trying to get it started so I can make sure it runs right before I take it to my tuner. Don't worry, I'm not trying to run a boosted Honda on stock injectors, just trying to start it. I have 1000 cc injector dynamics I plan to install when we tune.

a pic to give ya an idea what i'm working with

 

Anybody? Bump? maybe I'm asking the wrong question. What all controls the fuel pulse signal to the injectors? because that's what it's not getting.

 

You're asking in the wrong forum. Have this moved to Forced Induction.

 

Okay, how do I do that? well wait, it's a no start issue not a turbo problem.

 

bump.

 

so do you have a ckp sensor working on the car cause if you dont ecu wont pulsate the injectors cause it doesnt read what position the crank is in

 

The ECU "pulses" the injectors The ECU must "see" IPG1&2, [power from fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Do you have power at the injectors when ign. switch is on?

If so, make sure ECU as power at IPG1&2 when ign. switch is on. 94

 

I thought obd1 only looked for cam signal?

cool i'll check those out today, thanks. i'll let ya know what i find.

 

yea sounds like a crank position issue.

 

^ like i said before i thought obd1 does not look for a crank signal just cam signal. plus if it was a crank sensor issue would't it just crank and not start? see it's starting then shutting off.

 

I would check the "Locash Racing obd2a to obd1 conversion harness" it is definatley an ECU/ECM problem, or ECU/ECM related problem, your losing injector pulse.

First thing I would check is make sure both IPG1 and IPG2 on the ECU/ECM have and maintain power.

Power to IPG1&2 are supplied by the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, confirm injectors have power, [12V+] when ign. switch is on and engine will not start, also confirm you have power at the heated O2 sensor, intake air bypass control solenoid valve, evap. purge control solenoid valve and IACV, all of the above, including IPG1&2 should have power as long as ign. switch is on.

Also as mentioned, make sure CKP is working, it may be weak and fails as soon as it passes current, engine starts and then stalls. 94

 

cool man, i'm going to check all those things, I've just been crazy busy at work and haven't had time to mess with it. thanks for your input. But i'm positive the crank sensor is not connected.

 

finally got some time today to check all the things FCM listed in his post and here are my results,

with key on I have power to IPG1 A11, and IPG2 A24.
with key on I have power at all 4 injectors
resistance on all injectors is 0.012 ohms.
also power at all sensors.

still nothing..... I'm ****ing stumped.

 

Do you have power, at the above, when ign. switch is in start position?94

 

^ yes, here's a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJVRFBufECE

 

Bumpski.

 

connected Crank Sensor, NOTHING same ****.

 

Have you tried the obvious - different injectors? I've had problems where it was just injectors, and the person swore seller's the donor car was running.

If you want to test them, turn on the key, then feed each injector +12vdc manually to their leads. Only do it for a second or less. Pop each injector out and smell for fuel. You could also pull the manifold out an 1/8" and stick some paper in the gap to spray onto.


BTW if you have a resistor box wired in, stock saturated injectors will not work. Too much overall resistance to open them.

 

Are you positive it is the ground pulse to the injectors you are losing and not the 12V+?

You said, "the pulse is bright when it starts then gets weak when it wont start" have you checked to see if it was the ground pulse or the 12V+ to the injectors is what is being lost, a noid light would "get weak" if either one was "lost".

You also said you reused the EX harness, you modified it to work, 96-98 Honda Civics did not come with an injector resistor box, did your modifications include adding one? 94

 

I'm not sure if its the ground pulse or 12v+ pulse i'm loosing, but yeah when i hook up my noind light the pulse is bright when the engine semi starts, but when it is just cranking the pulse light/flash gets weak (not as bright). Correct, i reused the harness that came off the factory engine (D16Y8) and No, I'm not running any kind of resistor box, i don't know why that came up? Stock obd2 injectors. The injectors also came out of a running car so i figure there good.

 

do i just hook up my digital multi meter to the fuel injector connector while it's cranking and see if i loose the 12v+ i have? I'm just confused on how to test that?

here is the funny thing, if i disconnect ALL the injector clips from the injectors and connect my noid light into each one one at a time, the light flashes bright all the time on each one. but when I plug the clips into the injectors and test em one at a time, that's when the light will go dim.

 

is that a hondata 4 bar map

 

it sounds like its a map sensor problem had the same issue have u changed the calibration on the s300 to use the 4 bar try swaping it out with a stock map and see if she starts up or change it to the 4 bar map on the s300 stock ecus wont run on that map sensor

 

yep, it's a 4 bar hondata MAP. and no I haven't tried switching it out. I scheduled my tune at locash for next Wednesday, Joe is convinced he can figure it out, so i'll let ya know what he finds wrong with it, hopefully i'll have some power numbers to brag about as well. Thanks for all the help so far guys