Which do I use for the head bolts or does it matter. I have a LS/Vtec in the works and need to know for my shopping list.

 

ARP B18C1 Head studs

 

Ok so I need v-tec head bolts correcto???

 

he said studs, not bolts, don't use head bolts on an lsvtec.

ARP VTEC head studs.

but if you wanna use bolts, be my guest...they would need to be vtec bolts, but like he said

use head studs

 

Damn man got the point............

 

I got mine from summitracing.com for $116 plus shipping.
Part #- ARP-208-4303
Item description:Acura: All B18CI, 11mm, chromemoly steel, black oxide finish, head stud kit ...

Good luck!

 

Ok I've looked them up look pretty good. quick question are the boxed off so you can bolt them directly to the block or do you have to figure out a way to make them stay with out backing out, locktite, use two bolts and back them off or what. or does it have pretty good instructions. Do the have main bolts also for the GSR.


[Modified by zCivic, 11:04 PM 12/30/2002]

 

Why not?

 

I am not sure if they are boxed off or not, but I have never heard ot them backing out. I am not sure if they make main studs or not...summit dosent have them on their site though.

PS. Personally, I dont see why you could not use bolts.

 

yeah just noticed that also. Appreciate it. Also learned that GS-R bolts 1mm longer

 

Yeah, why not??

 

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/produ...headstuds.html

Bolts have threads on one end, where studs are threaded on both ends. The studs are going to be alot stronger hands down. Check out that link, and it will all make sense. Get the studs.

 

this is not true, you can use GSR or b16a bolts on them, preferable GSR because they are longer. You can also use 8 of the 10 LS bolts and order 2 new LS bolts from the dealer ... the 2 originals are very long and will not work.

If you want beefy clamping then the ARP but that is a PITA if you have to take off and put on ... but to each his own ...

as for ARP studs, DO NOT USE LOCTITE, you are suppose to screw in hand tight, all of them should be the same level when screwed in hadn tight, if they are not then the ones that are higher prolly have oil or liquid in the block hole and you need to unloosen and tighten more until it is fully seated hand tight ... when you clamp on the washer and nuts then it will torque to specs... you can goto 71 or so ft-lbs with the arp moly or 90+ ft-lbs iwht 5/30 oil.


Greg

 

thanks for all the info, gonna get the studs in a while, put them in even height at hand tight w/ 5w30 and torque them down to 90ft/lbs. Sound about right??

 

yah, and oil the side where the nut clamps too ... oil before putting head on cause its hard to get to the threads after the head is on ...

greg

 

oh yeah forgot, put the studs in prior to placing the head on the block right?? then oil where they stick out of the head??

 

both ends of the studs need oiling or dipping in the oil then screw into block hand tite then put head on after then washer then nut then torque same method as manual, 22ft lbs then like 50 ft lbs then whatever you plan 90 ft lbs or so ... The 3rd is not in the manual, thats how i do it which is safer as it *settles* very nicely

greg