If you took the exact same car, which motor would be faster in completely stock form, ls/vtec or a gsr motor? Both with a gsr tranny.

 

with ls/vtec it depends greatly how and who builds it up. if you cut corners and do a shitty job, then you are asking for problems. ls/vtec isnt for someone who is inexperanced, otherwise you an unreliable, troublesom engine. if you really know what, how and why ls/vtecs work, and with what comobnation of parts is ideal, then it shouldent be that much of a problem. you can get started by reading this:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=501372

 

If you want a little more hp and torque go with the LS/V-Tec. They are nice. You have to give them more attention, so remember that ok?

 

an Ls has a 89mm stroke and 81mm bore, while b18c has 87.2mm stroke and 81mm bore, so an Ls/vtec is in a way kinda like a stroked b18c1. plus throwing a vtec head on the stock Ls bottom end you get higher compression, so in the end you end up with a little more power and torque. you wanna buy an LS(b18a)? ill sell just the complete bottom end. have an Ls tranny too.

 

there is no standardized stock form for LS VTEC. they do have more compression and stroke than GSR, they need tuning to run optimally since they are known as and truly are frankenstiens.

GSR is a great engine. Mine is damn near 11:1 CR and is strong as crap... I cheated a bit. swapped out the C1 for a C5 block(lighter rotating assy makes for faster acceleration no doubt Rs up faster)... for all purposes mentioned,
my engine is stock GSR everything but for ITR valvetrain (minus intake valves)
on GSR cams/cogs, IM, unmodifed ECU, GSR STOCK I.H.C.E(itr mufffler) so it behaves completely like a GSR on steroids. its making in the neighborhood of 165/123 the wheels SAE corrected w/120 @5252. Pulls hard on GSR gears, third is fun and 4th still pulls. since its been truly broken in, I havent re-dynoed it but 3K into it it was at 158/121 118@5252...Sae corrected with STOCK EVERYTHING attached...

so theoretically ITR pistons in a GSR will do well for you... remember a lighter rotational mass accelerates FASTER under load better no matter what the dyno whp states...

I say GSR:
full ITR valvetrain and TODA As
Hondata S200, 290cc injectors, prelude fuel pump
GSR head with stock HG, arp head studs, stock VVIS manifold w/IAB
ported butterfly plate... trust me (its NICE) stock GSR TB tapered to match
IM at 68mm
JDM itr pistons .25over (11-11.3:1)
K/N filter/stock airbox w/freah air,
street comptech header, 2.25" FF cat with 2.5" ApeXi WS
fully tuned
ACT 12lb flywheel
exedy clutch
ES engine mounts
spoon thermostat
fluidyne radiator

< this should be a 185+ SAE corrected whp setup w/o headwork (but lotsa TQ prob mid to upper 140s) fully tuned with nearly the reliability of a stock motor granted if you upgrade the oil pump... plus it should have LOW END due to the TODA cams and that manifold making great power down low... FLAT power mind you and the car is very drivable because of it... just not a very popular way of approaching it... but I love my engine. cant wait to mod it up.


Modified by MikeSarr_GSR at 10:05 PM 6/1/2003