JDM B16a1 question
Im about to get a Full swap JDM B16a1 for my 89 Hatch. My plans are to build the motor to take high boost. So i want to know what kind of power am i looking at getting from this block? People tell me to get a LS or GSR motor, what do you guys think? Want to get around 250whp
Also if i decide to go with a LS or GSR motor can the cable tranny/linkage/ecu/racing mounts from my B16 work with these blocks or am i going to have to start over on the swap?
Also if i decide to go with a LS or GSR motor can the cable tranny/linkage/ecu/racing mounts from my B16 work with these blocks or am i going to have to start over on the swap?
Well, it doesnt take "high boost" to get 250 whp. I would say 10 psi with some decent tuning with Hondata on a stock motor will easily net 250 wheel hp. But the same 10 psi on an LS or GSR motor is gonna put down somewhere near 300 whp.
Well, the USDM B18C1 has 170@ flywheel, usually around 15o-155 @ wheels stock
You have to remember theres about a 20% loss due to drivetrain friction, so the power @ the wheel swill be less than the rated flywheel output.
You have to remember theres about a 20% loss due to drivetrain friction, so the power @ the wheel swill be less than the rated flywheel output.
Well, a GSR is a good choice. I have a 95 GSR with JDM 4-1, AEM CAI, N1 exhaust, ITR cams and a VAFC that makes 179@wheels. Not too bad for stock compression and ECU.
I have seem the B16A run from 130WHP to 150WHP. But power can vary widely depending on such things as bolt-on mods and the quality of the swap. This is especially important on your 1989 Civic HB. Since the airbox and stock exhaust were never designed to flow for a B16A, they can greatly reduce power output to the low end of this range and below. But generally speaking, a porperly done B16A swap with bolt-on mods should run about 145-155WHP with around 100-106ft-lb torque (measured at the wheels). The B18C is a great choice if you can afford it.
I am not a big fan of the LS. It is not nearly as fast as the B16A. And the torque is not all it's cracked up to be. If you want a non-VTEC motor, go with the B20. It has alot mroe torque and better power as well.
[Modified by StorminMatt, 3:48 AM 7/31/2002]
I am not a big fan of the LS. It is not nearly as fast as the B16A. And the torque is not all it's cracked up to be. If you want a non-VTEC motor, go with the B20. It has alot mroe torque and better power as well.
[Modified by StorminMatt, 3:48 AM 7/31/2002]
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thanks guys! I think im gonna try and find a B18c1 or b18B block and put my b16 heads on it! As for a B20 could i just swap the block as well and use my B16 head or do i have to do other changes?
My friend has his GSR bored .20mm over with 9.0:1 JE pistons, Eagle rods, portflow head, B16 cams, Skunk 2 sprockets which are zeroed out and manifold, and RC 440cc injectors. With his Rev Hard T3/T04E turbo boostin 10 psi he ran 12.5@112 in his 97 coupe full interior. His slicks still burn half way down the track and they're MT 24.5x9x13 on Bogart Pro 4's We need to get it on the dyno to really get some power tho cuz it's just runnin on a Hondata preset
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