itr lost compression
ok so my wife was out in my car yesterday and it drove normal got home and parked it , today it wont start . so i start looking around and see the timing belt is loose , so i take the motor down put a new timing belt on it and put it back together and it starts but it idles rough . i then did a compression test and the results where 180 150 130 130 , so im thinking bent valves . is there anything else that would cause it to drop compression that bad , it was driving good and last compression test i did results where 240 all across . any help will be greatly appreciated
OK Model and year first....Loose timing belt will not cause a no start,( not that I have seen) a broken one will. Are you sure you have the marks dead on. Compression seems close to ok but so uneven, if the valves are bent you will have a lot lower numbers if any in some cases...More info might help
its a 2000 integra type R , car would not start at all and the belt wasnt broken but was very loose . after fixing the belt the car starts but idles like crap and i have skunk2 cam gears and the dots match in the center and the dots that face the front and rear of car line u but the white marks that should be facing up are leaning a little to the left ( towards the front of the car ) . could it maybe be the cam gears that skipped or moved if thats possible ?
Bent valves would probably have nearly 0's for pressure as pretty much all of it would get out. One thirty is awfully high for a cylinder with a huge hole in it. You can listen for that with the right acoustic accumulator (looks like a stethoscope from the doctors office, but doesn't have the solid bar, it's hollow with a little horn on the end to capture sound. You could definitely hear it in the exhaust or intake. I'd ditch the adjustable gears for stock ones, make sure your pistons are all at half travel independent of the cams, rotate the cams to close valves (hand rock the rockers make sure they're all loose for that cylinder) one cylinder at a time, and look for a set of valves that is lower than the others for that cylinder, indicating that it is bent open and will not re-seat. If you find that, you know what you have to do. If not... leakdown test.
BEFORE you can do that though, you will need to lock the flywheel in place. This can be done by removing the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing and improvising/making a tool that will bolt SOLIDLY and prevent the flywheel/flexplate from moving at all. If you put compressed air into the motor without it locked, you can kiss some more valves goodbye. Do that one cylinder at a time, rotating the cams so the valves are all closed and listen for massive amounts of escaping air. If you find none, your valves are probably okay. It's probably also a good idea to check your valve adjustments too if you find no issue. Then set the timing per the factory manual, get that belt on, and try again. Keep in mind the leakdown it just being performed to find a gross leak, not to establish the maximum performance condition of the engine, so you don't need a leakdown gauge (having one won't kill you though).
BEFORE you can do that though, you will need to lock the flywheel in place. This can be done by removing the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing and improvising/making a tool that will bolt SOLIDLY and prevent the flywheel/flexplate from moving at all. If you put compressed air into the motor without it locked, you can kiss some more valves goodbye. Do that one cylinder at a time, rotating the cams so the valves are all closed and listen for massive amounts of escaping air. If you find none, your valves are probably okay. It's probably also a good idea to check your valve adjustments too if you find no issue. Then set the timing per the factory manual, get that belt on, and try again. Keep in mind the leakdown it just being performed to find a gross leak, not to establish the maximum performance condition of the engine, so you don't need a leakdown gauge (having one won't kill you though).
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