im taking my engine out of my 97 gsr and i want to rebuild it to handle 15-20 psi, whats the best combo of internals for it? thanks

 

there are no ''BEST'' combo, its all a matter of opinion, some combos work better for others some dont.... basicly je,cp,wiseco, pistons are good eagle,crower,pauter,carrillo rods are great

so its just a matter of what you choose, there will be too much well this is good well that is good so its a matter of what you wanna use

 

ok would the stock head handle that kind of boost? what machine work would i also have to do? and what about the tranny, how much could that handle? i appreciate it thanks

 

when your talking about how much an engine can handle you don't look at it as PSI you look at as WHP. 15psi on a T25 is much different than a T4 at the same PSI. Then you have to look at a tune.

With a cheap FMU and ML you'll be lucky to be reliable on 8 psi on any turbo and maybe make 50hp more than stk.

With a good tune (neptune, crome pro , hondata, etc) a stk GSR can handle upwards @ 300 WHP

If your boosting I recomend internals, no matter what WHP your wanting to reach. Cast parts don't like heat, period. Expecially your CYL #3. If you upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and fuel rail then pair them with a good tune it will help but your pistons are still going to be your weak point.

If your on a budget CP pistons and Eagle rogds are a nice combo and with a good tune your good for well over 400-450 hp but your weak point is now your sleeves. I don't like alot compression of a boost car to be more than 9.5:1, I choose 9:1 for my LS/VTEC set up at 12lbs.

The less compression you have, the more boost you can run, safely.

IMO Weiscos are the best pistons on the market, they have alot of R&D that goes into them to make them more efficient but for my set up (a weekend street car) it just wasn't worth the money.

As far as the tranny, i've seen stk GSR trannys on cars with 600+ whp

for machine work first hot tank the head then get a good P & P on the head with a nice valve train and good cams will really help free up some HP. Along with a port matched intake and turbo manifold along with gaskets. This is quite an expensive stage. It's easy to blow 3 grand on a head. It's not usually the boost that kills an OEM valve train its the high reving. If you want to take it past the OEM red line up grade the vavles/springs/retainers. Other than that there are plenty of people here with 300+ whp on a stk valve train

Then for the bottom end, hot tank, linear bore, ballance the crank (micro polish if it tickles your fancy) and sleeve if you plan on putting down more than 400whp (IMO) or if you have to bore more than 81.5 to clean up cylinders. Sleeve your block and you can be in the 500+range with all the dyno queens. I only say that because 700WHP is almost uselsess off the line in a small FWD car. It looks good on a dyno graph but even with all the suspension mods and slicks needed to keep it on the pavement she's still too powerfull to launch. This is where you get "racing from a roll".

I like a block guard but some on here will disagree, I run one, if properly installed they do help prevent blown HG.

Don't forget to find out how much the machine shop they took off of the main and crank, you'll have to factor that in with the codes on the bottom of your block to make sure you get proper size bearing.

I like OEM honda, Clevite and ACL also make good bearings.

Always get a new oil pump and water pump after a rebuild, also a good time for a new thermostat, TB tensioner and T.B.

Put all new gaskets and seals on her and your pretty much good to go ( or at least you should be you just spent almost 5 grand on a 4 CYL and you still need to put together a turbo kit)

Don't forget to upgrade that clutch, I like ACT but I hat ACT TBs. I like a sprung clutch for street cars. If you make more than 350whp your going to want to get some aftermarket axles. They are a bitch when the OEM replacements snap on a date and you have to send your girl home VIA taxi while your waiting on your buddy to meet you to tow the thing home.

I'm bored at work and I type too much

 

i agree with alot of what you say.... but i also disagree

as far as the block guard goes, i disagree becuase it gets people thinking that they are a replacemnt for sleeves, and they dont increase the integrity of the sleeves like ductile iron sleeves do. thats only if the party is trying to say that well. i can get a block guard and it will be the same as sleeving a block, its not

ductile iron sleeves are stronger and thicker which makes them ideal for high boost applications.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with alot of what you say.... but i also disagree

as far as the block guard goes, i disagree becuase it gets people thinking that they are a replacemnt for sleeves, and they dont increase the integrity of the sleeves like ductile iron sleeves do. thats only if the party is trying to say that well. i can get a block guard and it will be the same as sleeving a block, its not

ductile iron sleeves are stronger and thicker which makes them ideal for high boost applications.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like a block guard but some on here will disagree, I run one, if properly installed they do help prevent blown HG </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is why I stated that I use it to help prevent blowing head gaskets. A BG does very little to nothing to add to the integrity of the OEM sleeves.

 

thanks for the good info, i appreciate it, i already got a exedy satge 2 and a t3/t4 setup ready to go, just need to burn all my money on the engine

 

yea i hear what ur saying, its just some people DO think that they increase sleeve integrity lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra8804 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the good info, i appreciate it, i already got a exedy satge 2 and a t3/t4 setup ready to go, just need to burn all my money on the engine</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to have the exedy stage 2 but I had problems with it slipping when VTEC engaged at 12psi. This was with an SI tranny. If your running a GSR you may have better luck than me. Now i'm running and ACT perfomance clutch (full disk) with extreme pressure plate (thank you LSD motor sports). I have the real heavy pedal but she engages smoothly, this is good becuause I live in the city.

 

tuning wise what size injectors r good for this? 500cc big enough for 15 - 20 psi?

 

If your buying new just go with the 750's.They are just a couple bucks more than 550's and give you a good margin.If you find a deal on used 550's they should do the job.