Hi, thank you in advance for helping me out with this. Searched but could not find anything regarding this issue.

Problem:
When the car is running I cannot get into any gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed. There is no grind, I just simply cannot push the shifter into any of the gears.
When the car is turned off, I can shift into any gear easily.
When starting the car in 1st gear, the car starts but then jumps forward and stalls all while the clutch pedal is still fully depressed.

Naturally there is something wrong with my clutch assembly. I was just hoping someone could explain what's going on and maybe how bad the problem is...

Thanks!

 

did you do just any work on your tranny/motor/clutch?

how does the clutch feel? does it have nice consistent recoil?

any noises coming from the motor?

any leaks/low on clutch fluid/misaligned slave cylinder on the tranny housing?

more would would be primo.

 

just did a bunch of tests according to a friends advice. there are no leaks and the clutch slave piston does press on the clutch arm. so the lines are doing their job. given that the problem is now located in the clutch assembly i'm assuming i need to have the clutch replaced?

 

i'm willing to be that your problem lies between the transmission and the engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm willing to be that your problem lies between the transmission and the engine </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

To the OP:

Make sure you test all your clutches on your input shaft before you install them, to ensure they do not bind, as small burrs will cause it to hang up on the flywheel. Rust on the input shaft will also cause it to bind up on disengagement.

If the clutch is old, the vents (slots) on the disc could be gone. These vents serve to cool the flywheel, and to eliminate the suction force that the flywheel/clutch create when turning. If these vents are gone, vacuum force will pull the disc onto the flywheel, and cause that. The Marcel (wave) spring in between the two friction surfaces could also be worn out, as its job is to push the disc off the flywheel when the clutch is pressed in.

 

Marcel springs have more to do with clutch smoothness than disengagement. Thats why full race clutches and six pucks don't have Marcel springs. I think your throwout bearing might not be attached to the pivot fork. Do you have clutch pressure, or is the pedal limp like a dishrag?

 

Clutch smoothness is dealt with by using torsion springs in the hub of the clutch. Once the clutch pedal is depressed, the Marcel spring snaps back and pulls the clutch disc forward.

 

How can it pull anything when it isn't attached to anything to pull on? I've read and spoken to a few people who say it's purpose is engagement characteristics. If it was to release the disc, burrs or rust on the input shaft would be of no consequence, as it would have the help of a spring. And if vacuum has enough strength to hold the disc in place against the flywheel, they wouldn't need pressure plates. Regardless, i think his fault is in the bellhousing.

 

Put a spring on the table, and press down on it, and then let go, and watch it jump off the table.

Vacuum force is thwarted by the slots in the disc, and does not provide a means to transfer 120ft lbs of torque. Create an unvented full face disc and now it will continue to rub, even when disengaged, which is the whole point of the slots.

There is some play, but not that much during release of the disc. rust or burring can easily hang up the clutch disc.

A combination of any of the mentioned causes will cause a grind, all of them will contribute.

 

Try pumping the clutch pedal before you try to stick it in gear. Leaky master clutch cylinders are pretty common.

 

Your theory of Marcel springs is flawed. I looked, and found nothing that says Marcel springs have anything at all to do with clutch release. I also called ACT clutches and Clutch Masters, and they said it has to do with clutch feel and initial bite, not releasing the clutch.

 

I have the EXACT same problem.
My original transmission would not shift, so I would adjust the cable and all would be good.
Well, eventually, I ran out of cable to adjust.
Time for a clutch kit.
I changed the clutch... Drove for a day... now I can't put it into gear...

What the F*&K?!?!?
I Pulled transmission... ALL LOOKS PERFECT?!? Wrong clutch?!?
Do I need the resurface the Flywheel?!? or get a new one?!?
Im stuck...

Please help (I might actually get to fix something right).
Thx 4 ur time

 

I got a 97 Ls Integra, 111k, 1.8 5spd hydro having similar prob....thought master/slave was bad and replaced both and bled, this helped a little but not like I thought it would. Trans is quite in gear and runs smooth it just shifts like crap.!
It still shifts HARD unless rpms are matched up. sometimes at stop have to put in 2nd then up to 1st or it wont go in gear. 2nd's the worst, 3 and 4 shift ok, but not right.
I've also noticed that is clutch pedal is only halfway depressed it seems to shift smoother(?) At a full stop with clutch pedal all the way down the clutch sometimes starts to drag and jump like the clutch was let out, but no leaking fluid or air in line.
I've done jeeps, bmw 2002, 240z, ets...but before I tear into this one i'm looking for any ideas this is my first front wheel drive car.....thanks

 

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