ok..wed..i will be installing a new left rear caliper...the install seems straight forward..i searched here and read the article on t-i..but there was nothing about putting the new one on just removing the old one so reverse directions for putting the new one is what im going by...now after i have the new one on how do i go about getting pressure back to that caliper: normal bleeding sequence rr,lf,lr,rf...or do i bleed the left rear(new caliper) then go about the normal sequence..also im gonna flush it while im bleeding so its out of the way for a while...can someone give me some insight to this procedure,or even more detailed instructions would be great..thanks..

p.s. whats a decent over brake fluid to use that can be bought at like autozone or strauss...and how much for a complete flush...

 

I'd bleed the new caliper then go thru the ordinary sequence.

Suck the fluid out of the reservoir with something like a turkey baster, then that old fluid won't get pumped thru the lines. Fill with new & then bleed away. I can sometimes get away with a liter of new fluid, but I always buy at least 2 liters just in case...

I like ATE Blue fluid. Next best I like Castrol LMA. Lately in AutoZone I can only find DOT3 which I guess is OK for Hondas, but I need DOT4 for the Saab.

 

you must have read my mind JimBlake because i actually was hoping u answered to my post...i take heed to your advice and appreciate a response from someone with your knowledge(going by all the post ive read that u contributed to)..ok..

ok when i bleed the new caliper first how do i know when i bled it enough?
i"ll try to find the dot 4 fluid..
also is the dot 4 good for flushing the clutch fluid or will i need dot 3 for that...
will the carter pin for the ebrake assebly back there in the caliper be able to be reused?...
oh..ive heard not to pump the brake all the way to the floor as it will ruin the master cylinder...is there any truth to that? and lastly thanks so much for your time to explain these things to me in detail as u have when i was doing the rotors and pads a week or two ago...i kinda noticed then that the left rear caliper would not go back in as easy as the other side so i knew this was coming(replacing the caliper)
all day for you on me..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok when i bleed the new caliper first how do i know when i bled it enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>Just till you get good liquid without bubbles. Remember you're gonna come back to this caliper again during your normal sequence. That's when you have to make sure you have no more bubbles in the entire line.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also is the dot 4 good for flushing the clutch fluid or will i need dot 3 for that...</TD></TR></TABLE>The only difference I know about is DOT4 has higher boiling points than DOT3. I use DOT 4 for everything including the clutch.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the carter pin for the ebrake assebly back there in the caliper be able to be reused?...</TD></TR></TABLE>Sometimes. Just take a good look at it. But they're probably only 15 cents at the hardware store. Hell, probably only 75cents at the dealer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh..ive heard not to pump the brake all the way to the floor as it will ruin the master cylinder...is there any truth to that?</TD></TR></TABLE>I've heard that too, but I've pumped all the way to the floor many times before I 'knew better' without ruining anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg-your-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> all day for you on me.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I did my rear calipers a few months ago. I found I had to rap on them to knock all the little air bubbles loose. I bled them until I saw no bubbles then drove it and the brakes were really low. Then I re-bled them after tapping them with a plastic hammer and found a bunch of very little bubbles, then they were fine.

Castrol, I think, makes a synthetic DOT3 that is usually available in auto parts stores. I've found it works very well for everything short of hard track running. A lot of people use it on track too but I had some boiling problems with the GSR. It's in a brown or tan bottle.

The factory clip on the e-brake lever is not a cotter pin but instead is a small spring clip. Assuming you don't shoot it across the driveway and lose it forever, it can be re-used. If it's gone, a regular cotter pin will work fine too.

 

jimblake, again thanks a million...everything "should" go straight forward tomorrow ...
mohudsolo, thanks also.. i"ll remember to tap the calipers a lil to free up some air bubbles...
um i guess thats it for now unless theres anything anyone wants to add..and i"ll update you guys wednesday night/thursday morning..

 

oh yeah i forgot to ask...when bleeding the brakes is it neccesary to have the key turned to the on position...or the car can/has to be off completely...

 

Doesn't matter. I never bother turning it on. But if my daughter is pushing the pedal she usually needs the stereo to keep her from being booorrred ...

 

lol yeh that will be my girlfriend in my case..she gonna be my pedal pumper..cool i just picked up the caliper on my lunch break...looks so pretty when there new...well when i get home today im gonna go at it..hopefully everything will go as planned...funny though how that caliper only sticks when it wants to...lately i have been just putting in in first gear when i park instead of pulling the ebrake..maybe that has something to do with it..i dunno we"ll see im just tired of dumping money for maintenance when they could be mods instead...thanks JimBlake..

 

ok all is done and and all went well...piece of cake so to speak and i want to thank JimBlake and everyone else that contributed with great advice.....one thing i want to mention...after i installed the caliper and bled/flushed the brakes i flushed the clutch fluid...holy crap i sucked all the old fliud out the clutch resivor(sp) with a baster and to see what was at the bottom...so much ****y mud lookin ****...i cleaned that all out then began to flush...just for the record every two clutch pedal pumps i had to refill the resivor...so for anyone else who tries it i wouldnt go any morethan 2 pumps of the pedal before refilling.. also could not find dot 4 so i had to settle for dot 3...

overall brakes feel great now ,no more dragging,better bite and the clutch pedal feels so much smoother other than my lil clutch pedal click coming back after i was done but i"ll regrease the slave cylinder fork again as that eliminated it when i first encountered that clutch pedal click...whew..ok im done

thanks again..