Rukusmasta2

wuts up guyz thought id share last night project. My bros tranny was making wierd knocking, so dropped tranny took it apart and as u can see in the pics DEF input shaft bearing, sux cuz it was sat night and gotta wait til monday to order one

Tranny Case Removed


Pulled these lil pieces off the magent


Quick pick with shafts still in


And heres a better pic of the shot bearing


Just though id share

Honda Bull

Yeah. Trannies suck. But looks like you've got the situation under control.

I'd recommend just cleaning everything off while you're in there and get any extra metal debris out. Keep you from problems in the future.

Good luck.

Wes V

As common as the input shaft bearing problem is, I'm surprised that nobody sells a roller bearing to take it's place!!!!!

Wes

Runnerdown

I think part of the reason they fail, may also be that they are the farthest away from oil. Obviously, the tranny relies on the gears and a few key holes to lubricate everything but I think between the bearing location and stress load it fails first.

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As common as the input shaft bearing problem is, I'm surprised that nobody sells a roller bearing to take it's place!!!!!

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, a tapered roller bearing would be nice.

Wes V

Jim; It can't be a tapered roller bearing! You have to use tapered roller bearings in pairs and have to be able to adjust pre-load between the two bearings. Think about front wheel bearings on a (rear wheel drive) domestic car.

You would have to use a straight roller bearing.

If the bearing is failing due to not getting enough oil, then maybe the solution would be to use a sealed bearing.

Wes

Jim Truett

It can't be a straight roller bearing because there are thrust loads placed on it. The end bearing on the mainshaft is a thrust bearing. There is pressure placed on the assembly by the conical washer between 1st gear and the isb. It's not much, but I believe it's enough to keep a tapered bearing in line.

Wes V

Jim;

I can't think up a good argument in what you are saying about the bearing seeing a thrust load, but normally you wouldn't put a thrust load on a ball bearing, so I doubt that Honda designed it with that in mind. (In other words, you may be right and I could be wrong)

Normally transmissions have thrust washers to take any thrust load.

Wes

Rukusmasta2

check this pic out...theres a lil groove in the area of the top upper arrow...now my questions is on assembly does the shift lever(the bottom arrow) go in that groove or does it go under that whole piece as in the picture

dutchaccord

whats the number of the bearing, ill go and check what type it is.

Rukusmasta2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dutchaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the number of the bearing, ill go and check what type it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HUH???

Anyways i got it all together...i didnt get the snap ring on too good but everything is torqued down and i HIGHLY doubt it will go anywhere other than falling into place on its own someday ...didnt put tranny back in car yet maybe tomorrow so ill let u guyz know

88 rex

Just curious because I think i have the same problem and I'm anticipating seeing exactly what you saw when you cracked the tranny open, but did you happen to have any problems with shifiting before you took it out? I get the infamous knocking sound when I let the clutch out and it goes away when i press the clutch in, but also, when shifting it tends to be a little tough and there really isn't anything smooth about it. I'm afraid that there might be a little more than a bad bearing going on in my tranny. I'm hoping you had some shifting issues too because that would make my day

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rukusmasta2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HUH???

...i didnt get the snap ring on too good </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hold the tranny clutch housing up over a block of wood. From a height of 2-3" let it drop. The countershaft should snap right in. You must set the snap ring before you run it.

lastturn

haha... I just did the SAME THING THIS MORNING!!! haha. yeah, my trans was making a spinning sound everytime i shift between gears. I pulled my motor out and pulled the trans off. I then split my trans and my input shaft bearing looks JUST LIKE YOURS!!... haha. I ordered one this morning at Acura for about 34bucks and plan to finish putting it together tomorrow morning. haha. My garage probibly looks just like yours.

TIP: use TWO screw drivers instead of C'clip plyers to pull the C'clip off the bearing of the case prior to spliting the case. And dont for get to pick up some HondaBond at the dealer when you go get a new bearing.

Oh yeah, I didnt know hondas had that magnet plate on the bottom to catch flooting metal scraps.... I think thats what saved my gears. The cage to the ***** was gone on mine.

Good luck..

Oh yeah, if you already didnt do so. you could pop the bearing out with a punch and hammer from the opposite side of the case instead of using a "slidehammer" Just make sure you dont tear up the rubber seal.

Rukusmasta2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hold the tranny clutch housing up over a block of wood. From a height of 2-3" let it drop. The countershaft should snap right in. You must set the snap ring before you run it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i did that didnt snap on to good

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious because I think i have the same problem and I'm anticipating seeing exactly what you saw when you cracked the tranny open, but did you happen to have any problems with shifiting before you took it out? I get the infamous knocking sound when I let the clutch out and it goes away when i press the clutch in, but also, when shifting it tends to be a little tough and there really isn't anything smooth about it. I'm afraid that there might be a little more than a bad bearing going on in my tranny. I'm hoping you had some shifting issues too because that would make my day </TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe a piece is in your shift assembly????

and last turn i didnt use hondabond i use permatex grey on everything that calls for hondabond

Rukusmasta2

well after the whole hting it ended up coming out worse i dont understand why it sux im pissed car is so hard to shift into gears and wont go into reverse...so i gotta take it all out again im so pissed

gotboostedvr6

the snap ring is holding your shifting back its prob binding and you can shift it with a screwdriver before install to test if it works

Rukusmasta2

yea i did the screw driver thing and it was a lil hard but i said f it im a put it back in it might be different in the car and w/ tranny fluid...to my luck no it wasnt, this sux i mean what could it possibly be im so pissed i put everything back the way it came out...theres only one way everything can go into place in the tranny, this is crazy,,,

Rukusmasta2

does that look right? its supposed to be in neutral...i think that assembly( the shifting assembly) something is bent or something i have no idea

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember if that's normal or not, but if you can move the shift arm/change holder and the shift forks to line up correctly by hand, then it's probably just fine. The shift forks lay a little out of place when the gear housing is off.

It may also be possible that there's a chunk of debris hiding any of the synchros. I just took a tranny apart where I had a hard time removing the 1st-2nd synchro hub from the countershaft because of the metal sand built up in between the hub and the shaft.

Did you take apart any part of the mainshaft?

Try manually shifting it using a screwdriver when it's on the workbench. You should be able to click into any gear with just a little effort. Then, when you have the casing open again try moving the synchro sleeves up and down to select the gears by hand. It should click and snap when it has engaged the gear.

Rukusmasta2

manually shifting it was hard as sh*t too, and when the casing is off the synchro sleeves move up and down pretty good. no i took none of the main shaft apart...i really think its something with that shift assembly piece i think thats not normal when i try to manually move it with the screwdriver to 5th or reverse it doesnt go all the way over to the shift fork

Rukusmasta2

HELP ME bump

Rukusmasta2

TTT

Rukusmasta2

bump...someone gotta know there tranny stuff