dadrought6

i finally got my h22 started last night for the first time after swapping it in my cb7! its taken me very long to get to this point seeing as i had to go behind the last owner and rip out his conglomeration of alarm wires which kept the car from starting and i've never had to deal with that but thats besides the point. when you have the key in the on position you can hear a humming noise coming from the injectors constantly like they are always spraying fuel wide open, which flooded the cylinders with gas last night so obviously the car wont actually stay running. the resistor box was also making clicking noises right after you turn the key on but only for about one to two seconds and it would only do it once or twice, and when it did the fuel pressure fluctuated simultaneously with those clicking noises. im using the h22 injectors in my f22 fuel rail and i already tested to make sure im using low resistance injectors which are supposed to go with the resistor box. does anyone have any ideas as to why it would constantly be spraying fuel?

dadrought6

bump!

srmofo

your injector wires are shorted to ground. considering you have already had wiring issues just makes it that more likely.

fcm

Ditto the above, or the ECU is toast, the injectors are controled by the ecu, [ground pulse].
I also wonder if the VSS may have something to do with it as it sends signal to ECU so ECU can control duration of ground pulse to injector. 94

dadrought6

it was the ecu. the p13 was all f-ed up. it works fine with my pt3 but now i've got another problem. i got the viper alarm out and found another alarm, the factory one. i followed the harness for it and it ran to a black box under the driver seat and it said "Honda security systems." my fuel issue is straight but my spark is very slow and weak, which is how its been since i've tried to start it with the h22. it sparks once about every one to two seconds if you check at the plug boot. if the alarm was hooked up could it cut down the voltage and not let it have sufficient spark? i tried swapping out ignition modules in my dizzy and also tried a whole different dizzy out of my buddies h23 and got the same result. im taking the factory alarm out today anyway cause its just too much ****. this is a nightmare lol anybody got any ideas?

fcm

The OEM alarm should have nothing to do with the weak spark problem, if anything it would cause a starting problem, [cranking] as the OEM alarm will have a starter cut relay wired to it.

How is the engine ground?

Try this, using a set of jumper cables, clamp one end to batt. neg.(-) post and the other to the engine, then check spark again. 94

dadrought6

there is two right? one on the valve cover and one that runs from the chassis to the block like under the battery?

dadrought6

bump, pulled the stock alarm out now my headlights, windows and brake lights quit workin!! car still wont start and i pulled the plugs to see what they looked like and only 2 and 4 looked like they were hittin, one and three still look brand new like they arent even firing, nor crud or carbon or anything on those two and they are all brand new ngk plugs and brand new wires as well and im getting spark to every plug too. im def confused as hell now sooo anyone got any hints or ideas id appreciate it!!

fcm

Yes there are two of them, how are they, do you have a multimeter to test them?

For the head lights, brake lights and windows not working I would check the main fuses, [in engine bay fuse box] use the meter there also.

You say you have spark, is it a "good" spark?

Do you have fuel, can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the ign.?

Do you have power at all 4 fuel injectors?

Please answer the questions, and try the things I suggest and let me know if it worked or not, asking more questions before answering the first one(s) makes me have to repeat myself. 94

dadrought6

i tested the relays and they are def no good. i do have spark but its not good enough to start the car apparantly. im getting fuel for sure up to the fuel filter, the guage shows anywhere between 40-45 psi and you can hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on yes. i tested for power at the harness side of the black/yellow wire going to dizzy and it read 12.1 which is what batt said but dropped to 10.7 when tryin to start car. how do you test the grounds. put hot side of multimeter to pos batt post and neg end of multi meter on ground and check for voltage?

fcm

Test grounds by using continuity setting on meter, one probe to batt. neg.(-) the other to engine block/head, reading should be 000 or very close.

Did you check for power at the fuel injectors? 94

dadrought6

ok i checked my engine grounds, got a reading of .023 on block and the head. my injectors are getting power, a reading of 11.5 with the key on to be exact which is the same that my buddies d16 read and my resistor box is good. im getting fuel to the fuel rail and i know all injectors are spraying. i tried spraying some starter fluid in the throttle body too and still got nothin. im getting power to both my fuse boxes and nothing is blown, i also checked spark at every pulg wire and everything good there too. i've been told if i got eveything that i do, fuel, spark, etc its gotta be either one of two things. my timing is off or the plugs are fouled from being flooded with gas which is highly likely seeing as the motor filled up with gas the first time i got fuel and spark and it hasnt started since that first time. what do yall think? she still just sits and spins and spins but wont catch!! help please!!

fcm

Pull all plugs, disconnect injectors, crank engine to "blow out" any fuel in cylinders, squirt a little oil into cylinders, crank engine a bunch, make sure plugs are clean and reinstall, crank engine a bunch, reconnect injectors, cross your fingers and crank to start, a please and thank you to your God can't hurt either. 94

dadrought6

when you say disconnect injectors you simply mean unplug the injector plugs from the injectors themselves correct?

fcm

Yes, or you can unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay, you don't want any more fuel in the cylinders, the oil will help "re-lube" the rings and cylinder walls, [washed clean by the gas] resulting in low compression, once compression is back up and fuel is gone, engine should fire right up, you will get a little smoke for a bit, it will clear up once excess oil burns off. 94

srmofo

It also wouldnt hurt to change the oil before you start it. gasoline tends to break down oil.

fcm

Ditto that^^^. 94

dadrought6

dude it was the firing order on the distributor! i rechecked and switched three and two and it started right up. i had to replace a throttle body gasket but its running! couple issues though lol, it idles up and down, if you unplug the iac valve plug it calms down to about 1000 for about ten sec then starts idling funny again. plug it back in and it will still idle up and down. checked for vacum leaks could not find any. is it the iac valve if it calms down when you first unplug it? also my taillights, headlights, and the light that lights up the cluster dont work. if you turn lights on and turn highbeams on, the lowbeams come on and the lighting relay in under hood fuse box starts to continuously buzz until you turn highbeams back off then lights go back off and buzzing goes away. is it the lighting relay gone bad? my turn signals, dome light and door lights all work. im so close to drivin it so any ideas would be cool!

dadrought6

bump!

dadrought6

bump!