After purchasing an ATI Superdamper, I realized that it was a press-on style damper like many other vehicles use. I have a shop and lots of tools like a ballancer installation kit with 10 different and popular installation stud adaptors. Snap-on, Matco, generic, nobody makes an installation stud for this thread size. Here is the problem, Honda does not use a common thread pitch here. Honda uses a 14mm x 1.25 bolt thread pitch, VERY HARD TO FIND, anywhere in the US. I searched McMaster Carr and Googled for an hour before resorting to an overseas purchase for this bolt through eBay.
OK, many will say, just use the factory bolt and pull it on. The factory bolt just barely touches the first thread in the crank and pulling it on like that is gona be an issuse. Again, I have read on some threads here, just hammer it on a bit then pull it up. WHAT? Hammer on the new $400. dollar Superdamper, not me, it's gotta be right.
I have come up with this modification for myself. If you don't see the need for it; then don't do it. I can not stop myself from doing this kind of stuff, allways looking to improve something. I found the stud @ Demon Tweaks on eBay for $12. + shipping. I found the nut that I wanted on eBay also; it is a Range Rover lug nut with a huge 22mm hex and an integral washer that is 1.5' in diameter. These are very suitable choices for this but must be correctly modified for the task. Cutting a stud or slicing a nut may not seem difficult untill you try to do it well. Be patient, small air tool cut-off wheels are perfect and you'll need a vice to. Make every measurement twice and be very certain with your exact hardware, micrometers are required to be certain.
After installing the crank gear and timing belt washers I measured the distance to the end of the crankshaft, this for me was .460". Then I measured the ATI mounting thickness, this was .560" which roughly puts it out past the crank around .100". I wanted to use a nut that was a cap style, no thread protruding for a cleaner look and possible corrosion protection. You may use a passthrough nut if you wish, you will just have to use a big crank washer to distribute the torque. The depth of my sliced nut was 1" of thread, quite a bit and will allow for the longer pull on distance that I was looking for to install the damper. The stud is a conversion stud, so the nut is MUCH easier to find with a 14mmx1.5 pitch thread. The stud is three inches long and must be accurately measured and cut. I also ground a screwdriver slot into the stud end and beveled the edge for a thread starter. It works perfect and looks awesome. I believe that this is the very best way to install and fasten this exspensive piece of hardware.

 

So technically you fabbed up a longer bolt?