check this out, I have a d15 block with a d16z6 mini me swap. my idle is ok when its cold (high idle) but when it gets warm it stalls out. i even loosened the idle screw, the one on the t-body all the way, it helps but it still stalls out. it idles really really really low and it dies out most of the time. so when i drive it i just keep revving it. (yea im getting good at braking with my left foot now). When it idles, it idles rough, when i took a spark plug wire out, the motor runs the same. I tried it on all four wires, all of them seem to be giving a spark. (i hear the click click click click when i take them out of the spark plug). new spark plugs, gapped correctly also. can this be caused my timing, my timing might be off, but thats the only thing wrong with my car that i can think of. My ECU is a P28 but about 8 percent leaner, maybe too lean, could that be it? any advice or reply is appreciated. thanks.


Edit:

Problems:
-[fixed]engine runs hot, valve cover gets really hot, almost cant touch after a normal 15 minutes drive, my temp gauges seems to be working but doesnt say tis too hot, its in the middle. fan doesnt go on.
-idle roughs, dies out most of the time.
idle rough is fixed
still dies cuz stopped idle is too low for some reason
-Injectors humms after driving;; stops humming if i disconnect the battery, or take out the key

Notes:
-High end doesnt seem to be that bad.
-Recently change injectors

What I test/did already:
-change spark plugs
-pulled out plug wire, each one i pull decreased the idle from 2000 to 1500;; therefore i conclude no dead cylinders.
-I checked the tail pipe, no dirty black stuff;; therefore im runnign lean, since it was dirty about 2 weeks ago, and now its clean.
-spark plug connected on dizzy is correct
-timing is pretty correct


What i think it might be? please give me adive:
-[checked no leak] leak in the intake manifold. i did a test, i squarted oil around the manifold to see if it will leak though and see if i got grey smoke out the tail pipe. i didnt, but i have no clue how to check the underside.
-HOW can i check the fuel presuure?


Modified by Br1anPham at 5:51 AM 1/29/2004


Modified by Br1anPham at 11:58 PM 2/1/2004

 

Are you sure that you have plug wires connected at distributor in correct order?

 

change back to standard on the P28 and check your timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondatim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure that you have plug wires connected at distributor in correct order?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty sure, but ill check again today, fosho. thanks in advance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">change back to standard on the P28 and check your timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill trying to buy a stock p28 chip. (i have a socketed p06). Sholuld be getting that soon. however i do have a stock p06 program (the d15) so i can try that to see if its idleing smoothly.

Edit later after i try these out.

 

I just checked the spark plug firing order, it was correct.

stock p06:: idle doesnt dance as much. still idles rough
stock p06 with advance timing:: a little better, still idles rough.
leaned p28:: idles rough, dies at idle most of the time.
leaned p28 with advanced timing (what im using right now to get around):: dances around all the time, idles rough, rarely dies at idle but does happen.

I also notice i have a hissing sound coming out of my injectors or the wiring to the injectors.. wth??

 

bump!

 

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak at intake manifold gasket? Sounds pretty possible to me with the noise you're describing.

 

Dang that reminds me!! i might, i tihnk im missing couple screws (nuts that hold the Intake mani in place) in there! going to check that out tomorrow, if that solves all my problems, im going to be a happy man.


Edit:: wait a minute.. i remember i turned off the car and it was hissing, actually i first heard it when the car is off, ill still check but tahts what i remembered. the sound kinda seems like.. electricity?? it's kind of that kind of hissing/humming.


Modified by Br1anPham at 7:02 AM 1/26/2004

 

Spray starter fluid onto the intake manifold when it's idling; any changes in idle indicates a leak.

 

i will do that once i get my hand on some of that ether but for now i did it with oil so see if it will send out some grey smoke out the tail pipe but it didnt. but i remember one thing, i think i left out one nut on the underside of the mani, and its a bitch to get under there, or is it even possible to tighened the nut in unter there!?!? (with the ehad on the block)

ok update on my problem:

-humming from injectorish area
-humming stops when i disconenctr the batteries
-so far im trying to search for a leak, didnt find one but im not 100 percent sure.
-engine is really hot after a while, the valve cover is almost untouchable.
-run liek its running on 3 cylinders, when i pull out a spark plug, theres no difference in idle, which suggest im running on 3 cylinders.
-i am getting a spark at all the plugs and wires and just change spark plugs.
-when i rub my finger on my tail pipe theres barley any black stuff, suggesting im running lean.
-my most recent mods are just valve adjustment (but i did compression test and all the cylinders are so that might not be it and
- change my injectors, i change it from my old head(dx non vtec head) to a sohc vtec head, thinking it would be better since my old head had a lot lower miles.

comon help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spray starter fluid onto the intake manifold when it's idling; any changes in idle indicates a leak.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you had a leak, your idle would be higher. Not lower. look for something else.

 

Check your ignition coil.

Did you used to live in Corona, CA?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dgreenwud &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your ignition coil.

Did you used to live in Corona, CA?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i check if the coil is working, (i did get a park at the end of the plugs if you missed that part of the thead)

nope i lived in the bay area all my life.

 

one more question..

do you have aftermarket tach in car? if so, do you have it wired to ignitor output (yellow/black) or off of tach lead from ignitor (blue wire, I'm pretty sure)

If you do have aftermarket tach and is wired off of black/yellow wore from dist. try disconnecting wire at this splice and see if this makes difference. It it does, need to wire tach differnent due to tach intercepting signal to coil from ignitor.

However, if you don't have aftermarket tach or wired in this way, disregard post.

 

BTW, if last post pertains to possible situation, you could still have spark, albeit weak at most.

 

AHH good information.. unfortunately no tach. is there any other way?

 

bump.

 

bump for the owls.

 

if your idle is the problem are you getting any check engine lights? your IACV might be at fault. its the main cause of shitty idle's, if you take a good IAC and connect it to power you will hear it click very loud, and the valve inside opens a fair amount, a broken iacv will open very slightly almost nothing at all. if the idle is surging you might also want to make sure your coolant is at a good level, seems to be why your motor gets hot and if you have air bubbles in the system it will make your idle surge.

 

ok new updated, today i had held the idle with a wooden block so it would keep the idle at 2k steady. then i took out each spark plug wire. it would lower to about 1.5k. all four of the wires did that. so i dont think i have a dead cylinder.

no check engine light.

i will check coolant, thanks

i did clean my iacv before but i will try what you said when the wether dries up.

does this have anything to do with injects because i am running lean and its humming?? anyone ahve a clue? i will work on my car once the whether dies up a bit. i cant seem to pin point the problem.

so far this is sitll what i have to check on my car:
-intake manifold leak
-coolant
-im goign to try and put a resistor box on my injectors.

if anyone has more ideas please help me out.


how do i check if theres a bubble in the coolant... ? lol



Modified by Br1anPham at 11:56 PM 1/27/2004

 

when the car is completely cold, open the radiator cap, start the car until it warms up and put your heater to full hot and on full blast, then keep checking the fluid level and refilling if it goes down until the car is fully warm.

 

when you use your heater, your engine is suupose to cool down, do you mean use your a/c?

 

no. You turn heater on to full heat to allow coolant to fill heatercore, displacing any residual air in cooling system. This ensures no air pockets have formed in heater core and entire cooling system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Br1anPham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you use your heater, your engine is suupose to cool down, do you mean use your a/c?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no coolant runs throught your heater core, turning it to hot and turning the fans to full blast will circulate the coolant throught the entire system so it gets rid of air bubbles if any.. also when the car is standing still it will not cool up no matter how much heat is blowing out. so it will reach full warm temperature just gotta give it time.

 

o0o! thanks you guys are the best, so tomorow i got another few test, check for collant bubbles, and check again for manifold leaks one last time.

-check collant, its
-check vaccum its
-change injectors run real smooth but car still stalls because idle is too low, but the engine doesnt shake much anymore. when its moving, the idle is about 1k, but whenit stops, it lowers and dies. im thinking my prgram is too lean at a stop idle? any ideas?


Modified by Br1anPham at 5:50 AM 1/29/2004