well i just recently raced a couple friends of mine, and ive come the conclusions i need torque, and just overall more power. im getting the basic i/h/e, but i was interested in doing some better power adding mods. pistons, intake mani, camshafts, etc, but im not sure which to start off with first. i want something that i can, for the most part, just install without having to change 80 other things on my engine. what would be the best thing to do to get some torque. btw my setup is just a 93 civic coupe with a 2nd gen jdm b16a. any ideas? thanks

 

1.6L NA = not much torque. Either you want to go for serious RPM capability and take advantage of great gearing, or you need forced induction. No amount of NA parts will make a 1.6L torquey.

 

If u buy my bulbs in my sig, it will give you enormous torque!

 

sorry, i should've been more specific. i just need MORE torque. i don't need to feel like a v12 or anything, i just need more torque, and i was curious as to which ones would help out the most.

ahaha, thanks, but im good.

 

Swap the B16 block out for a B18C... Even if you get a USDM B18C1 and you lose some compression over a stock GSR you'll still be a lot torquier than with ur B16 block... If you want you could also build an LS or CRV block for LSVTEC or CRVTEC... B20's have nice relaxed torque because of their bore... 2000cc hehe Superchargers give you nice instant torque but for the money I really don't like them... If you wanna go FI then build your motor and boost... When i say build I mean sleeve, pistons, rods... Headwork too... got Portflow for that.. Superchargers are just too inefficient... Latez

 

bore and stroke!! get a 2.0 lol

 

A stock block B16 can take boost reliably for a ver long time, even if you start going over 10 psi. 8 psi on that block is no problem unless you forget about tuning. All the full build stuff is mostly overkill, and expensive overkill to boot if you plan on leaving the boost at street levels.

 

forced induction

 

That's true but i'm just weird about stock bottom end turbo motors... For some reason I just don't like them, I would much rather have a block that's been atleast overbored with some forged slugs.. (9.5-10.0:1 is good for me ), rods and just hold atleast 12-14lbs.. Latez

 

Don't get me wrong, I COMPLETELY agree with you. But from my perspective, insurance is only worth purchasing if...
#1- You have the money to do so
#2- You know it's worth every penny

And thus far, through my experiences, #2 is definitely not a closed subject for debate. Possibly it's that I know st00pid and MatT3T4 too well, because quite simply what both have done with stock bottom ends is, to put it mildly, supposed to be impossible according to greater internet opinion. But it's all actually happening... and on stock blocks. I know for a fact T3T4 has boosted 20 psi on the stock B16A bottom end, while shifting to 9k RPM with nothing much more than ITR cams, and come away laughing at Ferrari 360's with no engine damage. Sounds silly? Of course. But it happened, more than once.

 

Here's something I recently setup for a B16A2. Turned out to be a 13 second motor in a Si. You might not be super torquey but you will rip a new *** in alot of 1.8's that think they are.

B16A2 Block

-All new bearings, washers, seals & gaskets
-Hot tank, hone, bore & deck
-Micropolish, balance & counterweight crank
-Arias 11.1:1 compression forged pistons .25 oversized
-Total Seal pistons rings
-Eagle connecting rods
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP head studs
-ACT XACT Streetlite flywheel
-ACT Xtreme pressure plate
-ACT performance organic street disc


B16A2 Head

-Hot tank
-All new seals & gaskets
-Portflow complete headwork
-Portflow valve springs
-Portflow titanium retainers
-Skunk2 valves
-Skunk2 stage II cams
-Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
-RC 370cc injectors
-Honda Type R intake manifold
-Honda Type R throttle body
-Honda Type R 4-1 header w/heatshields


B16A2 Transmission

-Quaife limited slip differential
-ACT XACT Streetlite flywheel
-ACT Xtreme pressure plate
-ACT performance organic street disc


Extras

-5 quarts Honda motor oil
-5 quarts Honda MTF
-Honda type-2 antifreeze
-Honda oil filter
-Honda timing belt
-Honda platinum spark plugs
-Honda cap & rotor kit
-Honda plug wires
-Holley fuel pressure regulator
-Holley 255 fuel pump
-Apex-i VAFC
-Hasport motor mount kit
-Honda Type R OBD-II ECU

 

thanks for the help everyone. but what do you all mean by super torquey? when i said i need torque, i was setting me goals at around 140 ft pnds of torque or so. i dunno if you guys are talking about getting around that much, or if you are talking about getting like 200 ft pnds. anyways, thanks for the help all the same.

 

pulleys, vafc, and displacement

 

what type of racing were you doing where you figured that you need more torque? here's a word of advice: PLAN!!! it saves you so much money and time. do your research and make sure you know your route and what you wanna do. that guys setup up a few posts is nice but unless you have about 10,000 sitting in a shoe box under your bed, youre goin to be takin it pretty slow. what i would do is figure out whether i want to go turbo or NA. doing this early will save you from buying parts that you will end up having to sell later on. if you go the turbo route, make sure you build your engine if you plan to run more than 7 lbs of boost. while you have the engine out, might as well get the head ported and polished with a new valve train. but anyways, nothing you do will really give you the extra torque you want without adding a lot more hp(atleast from what i can think of). here is a site that shows you how to make your own turbo kit. http://coolazz.tripod.com/turbo.html

 

i agree with texan because i too have see the wrath of st00pid in H town when i was going to school there

 

yea, i was also looking into getting a new ecu, maybe spoon or mugen, would getting a new ecu help all that much?

 

gearing is another option. I was about to post an example torque multiplier, but why bother? If you're going to stick with 1.6 liter, chances are you'll stay around 100 lb-ft of tq to the wheels either sohc or dohc. Drop some weight..
Want neck snappin' torque? Keep the same tranny, and get a B20. You'll be much quicker than before. But faster? nah!

 

that's real helpful, way to go.

i say go with pullies for more pulling....

 

You're GAY Goodbye

 

lol, i agree..''torquey RWD car' my ***