okay... this is what happened.... my friend has a 92 accord wagon.... he wanted to make a rear disc conversion with brembo crossdrilled/slotted rotors.... so he buys all the stuff... he got the ebrake cable, rear arms with rotors, calipers, the stuff... when he slaps it on the brakes sucked... the petal went all the way down and they didnt lock.... so i told him to change the master cylinder and the p.valves.... he is such a stuburn jerk, and he only got the master cylinder from a prelude... its the same part number as the accords with rear disc brakes for his year.... so anywayz.... he couldnt install it right away becouse one of the fittings were bigger than the accord stock lines..... so we got a line from the junkyard from a acura legend... then we went to autozone and got a universal piece for honda... it was just a straight tube with the stock fittings... so i cut the tube and i put the bigger fitting in and viola.... so anyhow.... we installed it and finished the install... the brakes still sucked... we bled the crap out of it... so anyhow.... so i looked at both of the master cylinders and noticed that the new one needs more to bottom it out..... i mean.... the brake buster has to have a longer push rod thing....

but thats not what i really wanted to know.....

heres the real question.... he got all four rotors in a set for a accord with disc brakes all around.... i noticed that the brake pad isnt really grabbing alot of rotor surface.... its like grabbing half way.... do you think he should get some rotors for a accord with front disc brakes... or you dont think it will really make a difference.... is there a way of moving the caliper down or something.... and will he still need to get some other p.valves...?¿

thanks alot guys... i will try to get pics tomorrow.....

 

You can't just assume that the brakes are grabbing because 'they suck'. With almost any brake setup, the pedal should be fairly stiff and it should never sink. My guess would be that one of the rear calipers has a leak (likely the gasket around the piston, not the dust boot --> just to clarify). This would cause the system to lose pressure and thus the crappy pedal feel. Also, check all the brake lines and all that good stuff. Make sure you're bleeding in the correct sequence as well (RR,LF,LR,RF, if it's the same as my CRX, which it should be). You may have to bleed some more and make sure all the air's out; sometimes it's an honest mistake. Good luck.

 

thanks.... but how about the fact that the brake pad is only grabing about 1 inch of rotor...??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gumbii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks.... but how about the fact that the brake pad is only grabing about 1 inch of rotor...??</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's never a good thing. But describe it better so we can understand...

So part of the pad doesn't touch the rotor? Like your caliper is made for a larger-diameter rotor? Then you've got the wrong caliper, caliper bracket, or rotor that don't match each other. You gotta have that stuff together so it all fits.

Or maybe you just installed the pads or clips or something incorrectly. Then the pads would line up like they should, but they just sit at a slight angle & only touch on part of their surface.

 

thanks guys....

 

if the petal has a spongy (sorry about the spelling) feeling it would indicate air in the lines. And to test the master cylinder with the key OFF pump the brake 20-25 times until the petal gets hard. Then start the vehicle and the petal should sink down. If it does that than it is good. I would deff. replace the porportioning valve it is a MUST when doing a rear drum-to-disc.

hope that helps you