Jackal6042

Hey all. I'm hoping for some input on this issue.

First, I took the full trailing arms from a DC2 teg and swapped them on to my EJ1. I also got the 1" brake MC and matching booster off a DC2, along with a 40/40 proportioning valve off a DA.

Upon installing the rear trailing arms I decided to get some cross drilled/slotted rotors, new pads and stainless line. I put everything together and now I have a problem: Even slamming the pedal full on my braking is only minimal. It really feels like the brakes are not fully engaging. Before the swap the brakes worked fine.

My first thought was possibly the master cylinder, so I got another one (both were used) and tried that. Still the same thing. I swapped the prop valve back to what was first in the car and still the same thing. Everything was done proper all the way. The master cylinders bled fine, brakes bleed fine, the whole system was basically flushed.

So I'm a little lost here. I don't want to just start throwing parts at this and hope something fixes it. I think it may be the booster I got is bad. **** guys any ideas? I'm going to run to the "Pick Your Part" tomorrow morning and try another booster. I really don't think its the rear calipers causing this because my front brakes should still bite, but like I said the full braking force is not getting to the rotors. I may see if I can pick up another couple calipers when I'm there, but past that I'm stuck. Anyone got any ideas? I've got to get this done before I start putting together my swap.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or troubleshooting discussion.

NightCat

you've already bled and refilled the MC and booster and such? all the lines are hooked up? not leaking anywhere? everything making good connections? like from the lines to the Prop valve. sounds like your losing pressure somewhere..

Jackal6042

Yeah MC was bench bled, when bleeding the brakes it seems like the fluid has good pressure. But again that is as it is escaping from the bleeder valve, it could be losing it somewhere between there and the MC. I was thinking about cleaning up all the threads on every flared line, then applying a small amount of HondaBond HT to the bitches upon reassembly. The flared fitting on the teg MC that points to the passenger side of the car is a 12mm when the stock civic ones are 10mm, so I had to cut the line and re-flare it, but again everything was done proper on that end too & fluid flow to all four corners is ample.

I guess maybe pull it all apart again and start from scratch. Try a different booster and rear calipers, some sealant on the lines and go from there.

NightCat

just see if you can find any kind of pressure leak. sounds like its not sealing properly. like the system is properly closed.

Jackal6042

I know, I should have busted open the manual before posting this. But hindsight is 20/20. Step 1 for the booster test, I push and hold the pedal as hard as I can and it doesn't sink at all. So on to step two.

When I depress the pedal and start the engine the pedal again stays exactly where it was, no sinking whatsoever. This leads me to believe that I just ended up getting a bunk booster. Especially as I've checked for any sort of leaks throughout the whole system and everything checks out there. But once I get the new booster tomorrow morning and tear everything apart I will make sure to put a coat of HondaBond on all of the flared fittings just in case. Also since I've already tried two MCs, two prop valves and now two brake boosters (tomorrow) that I might as well grab a second set of rear calipers since that is the only part I haven't tried two of. Plus that will leave me with a second set of rear calipers I can rebuild either way.

I mean, the car brakes pretty good right now, but there is absolutely no locking the brakes which is my major concern, plus it feels like stopping distance is a little more than it should be.

I will post any updates tomorrow. I just can't wait to get these sexy *** brakes biting the way they should be!

XKINGX

I dont think I would use hondabond on the brakes. I think it will be just a waste in my opinion. the flares are inverted flares which seal without using and type of sealer. Is the braking spongy or hard? spongy makes me think air in lines and hard makes me think booster. sometimes it can be a real pain in the *** to get all the air out of the lines.

Jackal6042

Thats what my thought was on the HondaBond. Plus I'm not leaking a drop. The pedal is rather hard. That is what led me to think I had a bunk booster so I wanted to get other opinions/experiences. But after I busted open the service manual and did the booster test, and the pedal didn't sink at all when I had the pedal depressed as I started the engine and the service manual says it should sink slightly. So I'm almost 100% certain it is the booster. Not a huge deal, the pick your part lot is only 25 minutes from here and for the first booster & MC they only charged me like $30.

Jackal6042

***UPDATE***

As you will read in my last post, pretty much narrowed it down to the booster after performing the function test from the factory service manual. This morning I went back to the "Pick Your Part" and got another booster. Slapped it on the car, bled the brakes and now they bite like a ****!! I guess I got used to slamming the brakes to gradually slow the car from my last road test. Once I got out on the street I locked em up all nasty right in front of this busy gas station. Its funny how when people hear screeching tires they quickly turn their head thinking "**** yeah a car accident". Sorry I disappointed you if you happened to be at said gas station today.