Hi Guys,

I have a 2004 Honda CR-V that has a seized AC compressor according to the dealer. As the dealer wanted $1600 for an aftermarket compressor I found one at Carquest for $350 and am planning to try to install it myself. The system is at half charge according to the dealer. It is recommended that the dryer element is replaced also with the compressor, so I am planning to do this, although the system has not remained open to the atmosphere as far as I know. Some people on the Internet (Autozone YouTube video) (as well as the warranty instructions that came with the compressor) are recommending that the entire system including the evaporator is flushed with a special solvent and a flushing gun when the compressor is replaced. I would rather not do this unless necessary as it would increase the work by a lot I expect. Another factor is that CR-Vs of this era have been known to "grenade" the compressor throughout the system, which would require a good flushing (and maybe an expansion valve replacement) as a minimum. When the system failed there was no noise heard. It just stopped blowing cold and the end of the compressor was seen to not be spinning. I am hoping that the compressor simply seized without releasing debris into the system.

So my question is, is there a good way to determine if there is any compressor debris in the system. In the Autozone video, it is shown that debris can be observed at the condenser input filter. I am not sure if the CR-V has such a filter, or if the dryer element inside the condenser serves the same purpose.

Someone mentioned that normally one would check the orifice tube for debris, but in the CR-V there is an expansion valve instead. The expansion valve may serve the same function as an orifice tube and should maybe be replaced with a compressor? Should I be flushing the whole system?

PS I am by no means highly knowledgeable in AC system repair but I am a big do-it-your-selfer who is trying to learn how to deal with auto AC systems thanks to all the good information now available.

We need to take this vehicle on a long trip in two weeks.

Whatever info you can provide will be much appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

 

Start by seeing if the compressor is actually seized, a "half charge" would prevent the compressor turning on, [A/C pressure switch would prevent it].

All you need to do is find the A/C clutch relay, [in engine bay fuse box] and jump it with engine running, [A/C does not need to be on].

Find A/C clutch relay and remove it, test for power, you will find one pin with power, [assuming fuse is good], if it is a 4 pin socket you will jump to the kitty corner pin, if it's a 5 pin socket, you will jump the two bigger pins, start engine and use a paperclip to jump the pins.

You can also do it manualy, [much harder] turn the clutch, "the end of the compressor" by hand clockwize.

If compressor runs properly, the dealer was bullshitting and all that is wrong is you have a low refrigerant charge and A/C pressure switch is not alowing compressor to turn on, have it recovered, evacuated and recharged with thew correct amount of R134a refrigerant.

If on the other hand compressor is siezed and has to be replaced, cut open the filter and look for "chunks" of the compressor any metal filings will mean you will need to flush the system.

That being said, i have never heard of a compressor that siezed without warning, ugly sound getting progressivly worse. 94

 

Hey, That's really good advice. I was wondering if they could have been giving me a story. Before I took it to the dealer, I did a bit of checking of the electrical but not a jumper operation you described. I did swap the working horn relay into the AC spot and there was no change. I was wondering about the low pressure switch and if the problem could be simply low charge.

I took it to the dealer thinking they would treat me fairly and know the vehicle well. The story they gave me was seized compressor for $1600 and condenser for $600 (both aftermarket). They said the condenser had 8 fins broken off. If I just fell off the turnip truck, they would have billed me $2200 quick (plus labour presumably). If they are giving me a line about the compressor, that is really bad and I'll be writing a letter to someone at Honda. Like you said there was no warning at all. It was a pretty hot day (30C) and the AC was working normally. Later the same day it was blowing warm only.

Do you think I should still do the relay jumper when the relay swap made no difference. (I also measured 12V in the relay socket, two places as I recall, although I didn't get the wiring figured out, there appears to be no fuse problem. Should I simply throw a recharge can in it?

Thank a lot.

 

fcm:

If I jumper the relay, can I by-pass the low pressure switch and feed 12V to the clutch directly?

(If so, I should definitely do this. And trying to spin the clutch by hand is a good idea.)

 

fcm:

Sorry. I think you gave me everything I needed with first reply. I am just slow.

Cheers.

(I'll repost after I try the relay jumper.)