how much to resurface from head? replace valve guides?
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476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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My GSR head is at the machine shop and they told me that the stock surface is perfectly fine from the factory with no warping or dings. how much do you think i need to surface off? precise calculation.
and he said the exhaust valve guides are out of round, do I have to replace them? what are the consequences if i don't?
and he said the exhaust valve guides are out of round, do I have to replace them? what are the consequences if i don't?
Thread Starter
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One post wasn't enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, need opinions from different forums
nope, need opinions from different forums
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much do you think i need to surface off? precise calculation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell? You just told us the machine shop said it was fine. ZERO!
Ive never heard of valve guides being out of round. But there are tolerances listed in the service manual. I would find them for your engine and take em to your shop.
What the hell? You just told us the machine shop said it was fine. ZERO!
Ive never heard of valve guides being out of round. But there are tolerances listed in the service manual. I would find them for your engine and take em to your shop.
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476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What the hell? You just told us the machine shop said it was fine. ZERO!
Ive never heard of valve guides being out of round. But there are tolerances listed in the service manual. I would find them for your engine and take em to your shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea but a lot of people recommend always starting with a brand new surface when building a motor.
What the hell? You just told us the machine shop said it was fine. ZERO!
Ive never heard of valve guides being out of round. But there are tolerances listed in the service manual. I would find them for your engine and take em to your shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea but a lot of people recommend always starting with a brand new surface when building a motor.
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Thread Starter
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats because they dont check for flatness. As long as its flat your good to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok
bump for more opinions
ok
bump for more opinions
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My GSR head is at the machine shop and they told me that the stock surface is perfectly fine from the factory with no warping or dings. how much do you think i need to surface off? precise calculation.
and he said the exhaust valve guides are out of round, do I have to replace them? what are the consequences if i don't?</TD></TR></TABLE>
What year is the GSR head you have? Is it off your personal car or did you pick it up seperately?
If the stock surface is fine and straight, dont mill it. If you're not looking to raise compression, dont shave anything off. But, if you want to just do it for piece of mind, I would suggest .003mm - .005mm max.
If your machine shop is saying all the exhaust guides are out of round, I would ask if he measured the tolerances of the guide as well. If you dont replace them and they are not within factory spec, your valve could bend, break, and cause other components to fail and do more damage. Just make sure they are within service limits and tell the machine shop to make sure they aren't using left eye engineering to diagnose issues.
and he said the exhaust valve guides are out of round, do I have to replace them? what are the consequences if i don't?</TD></TR></TABLE>
What year is the GSR head you have? Is it off your personal car or did you pick it up seperately?
If the stock surface is fine and straight, dont mill it. If you're not looking to raise compression, dont shave anything off. But, if you want to just do it for piece of mind, I would suggest .003mm - .005mm max.
If your machine shop is saying all the exhaust guides are out of round, I would ask if he measured the tolerances of the guide as well. If you dont replace them and they are not within factory spec, your valve could bend, break, and cause other components to fail and do more damage. Just make sure they are within service limits and tell the machine shop to make sure they aren't using left eye engineering to diagnose issues.
the valve guides are more than likely out of round. id say if the head had 75k plus miles on it. not that uncommn to happen. but if you replace the exhaust guides also replace the intake as well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What year is the GSR head you have? Is it off your personal car or did you pick it up seperately?
If the stock surface is fine and straight, dont mill it. If you're not looking to raise compression, dont shave anything off. But, if you want to just do it for piece of mind, I would suggest .003mm - .005mm max.
If your machine shop is saying all the exhaust guides are out of round, I would ask if he measured the tolerances of the guide as well. If you dont replace them and they are not within factory spec, your valve could bend, break, and cause other components to fail and do more damage. Just make sure they are within service limits and tell the machine shop to make sure they aren't using left eye engineering to diagnose issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this is why I say, find a machinist you trust and let him do the job you're paying him for. If there's one thing that will **** off machinists or builders in a flash it's customers telling them how to do their job. If you're really concerned about it, pay the man for his time and take your head to a different shop for a second opinion.
If the stock surface is fine and straight, dont mill it. If you're not looking to raise compression, dont shave anything off. But, if you want to just do it for piece of mind, I would suggest .003mm - .005mm max.
If your machine shop is saying all the exhaust guides are out of round, I would ask if he measured the tolerances of the guide as well. If you dont replace them and they are not within factory spec, your valve could bend, break, and cause other components to fail and do more damage. Just make sure they are within service limits and tell the machine shop to make sure they aren't using left eye engineering to diagnose issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And this is why I say, find a machinist you trust and let him do the job you're paying him for. If there's one thing that will **** off machinists or builders in a flash it's customers telling them how to do their job. If you're really concerned about it, pay the man for his time and take your head to a different shop for a second opinion.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And this is why I say, find a machinist you trust and let him do the job you're paying him for. If there's one thing that will **** off machinists or builders in a flash it's customers telling them how to do their job. If you're really concerned about it, pay the man for his time and take your head to a different shop for a second opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with 91SiZ6 when it comes to machinists and telling them how to do their job. With this particular situation, it seems as if the machinist is not justifying his findings, or the customer is just not sure of his knowledge because he may not be as well known as some others. Its only right for the shop to justify their claims with proof somehow. When I've previously had heads done, I usually get a call after inspection and then they explain or show me things of concern (if any at all).
I really shouldn't promote the idea of telling a mechanic or machinist how to do what they do, but i'm just bitter because I've been dicked around by some before. I apologize.
And this is why I say, find a machinist you trust and let him do the job you're paying him for. If there's one thing that will **** off machinists or builders in a flash it's customers telling them how to do their job. If you're really concerned about it, pay the man for his time and take your head to a different shop for a second opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with 91SiZ6 when it comes to machinists and telling them how to do their job. With this particular situation, it seems as if the machinist is not justifying his findings, or the customer is just not sure of his knowledge because he may not be as well known as some others. Its only right for the shop to justify their claims with proof somehow. When I've previously had heads done, I usually get a call after inspection and then they explain or show me things of concern (if any at all).
I really shouldn't promote the idea of telling a mechanic or machinist how to do what they do, but i'm just bitter because I've been dicked around by some before. I apologize.
And I fully agree with justified findings. A good way to go about it might be to ask just how out of round they are and see if he gives you actual numbers.
Like I said to the OP in the same post on the All-Motor forum, I wouldn't pay someone to touch my engine or my car unless I trusted their work. I've been dicked around a few times myself.
Like I said to the OP in the same post on the All-Motor forum, I wouldn't pay someone to touch my engine or my car unless I trusted their work. I've been dicked around a few times myself.
Thread Starter
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And I fully agree with justified findings. A good way to go about it might be to ask just how out of round they are and see if he gives you actual numbers.
Like I said to the OP in the same post on the All-Motor forum, I wouldn't pay someone to touch my engine or my car unless I trusted their work. I've been dicked around a few times myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was actually highly recommended for this machinist and when i talk to him, he definately takes the time to talk and he knows his stuff. but to me, it seems that he specializes more in muscle rather that imports. hes done imports but hes more familar with the larger, american motors.
Like I said to the OP in the same post on the All-Motor forum, I wouldn't pay someone to touch my engine or my car unless I trusted their work. I've been dicked around a few times myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was actually highly recommended for this machinist and when i talk to him, he definately takes the time to talk and he knows his stuff. but to me, it seems that he specializes more in muscle rather that imports. hes done imports but hes more familar with the larger, american motors.
Flat is flat and out of round is out of round whether its a Honda or a Buick.If the exhaust guides are out of spec then I would replace them .If the intakes are still good I would leave them alone.You will need a valve job too after replacing the guides.After the valve job , surfacing the head will bring the chamber volume back to what it was before the vj.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i was actually highly recommended for this machinist and when i talk to him, he definately takes the time to talk and he knows his stuff. but to me, it seems that he specializes more in muscle rather that imports. hes done imports but hes more familar with the larger, american motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, then he has the basic principles of motor building down, so i'm sure he can spot concerns in valvetrain. Is he porting the motor at all or just valve job and resurface?
i was actually highly recommended for this machinist and when i talk to him, he definately takes the time to talk and he knows his stuff. but to me, it seems that he specializes more in muscle rather that imports. hes done imports but hes more familar with the larger, american motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, then he has the basic principles of motor building down, so i'm sure he can spot concerns in valvetrain. Is he porting the motor at all or just valve job and resurface?
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476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, then he has the basic principles of motor building down, so i'm sure he can spot concerns in valvetrain. Is he porting the motor at all or just valve job and resurface?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no porting, just valve job, surface and replace exhaust guides.
Well, then he has the basic principles of motor building down, so i'm sure he can spot concerns in valvetrain. Is he porting the motor at all or just valve job and resurface?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no porting, just valve job, surface and replace exhaust guides.
Thread Starter
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
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From: Southern California
well i decided to have him replace the guides and he said he was going to resurface .005'' off. thanks for all the help
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