how manny OHMS for TDC sensor?
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From: Two blocks from the beach, CA, United States
My engine has been throwing a code 8. This is the TDC sensor, ive picked up a HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL to help me. ive just recently checked terminals 3 and 7 on the distibutor to check the resisitance i got 377.5 ohms, im not shure about this book because it doesnt even tell you how manny OHMS your supposed to read on each sensor. I checked each terminal to ground and its good its not shorted but my question is how manny OHMS am i supposed to read. I got 377.5 OHMS, what am i supposed to read?
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From: Two blocks from the beach, CA, United States
there has to be a service tech on ht that knows or knows where to find out, damn Haynes manual what a help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hvacfunded »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there has to be a service tech on ht that knows or knows where to find out, damn Haynes manual what a help
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What year and model? Is the inside of the distributor covered with brown dust?
</TD></TR></TABLE>What year and model? Is the inside of the distributor covered with brown dust?
I have the same problem. The helms manual for the H22a says that resistance should be between 350-700 ohms. I checked the particular pins on the distributor applying to the TDC and get 396 ohms. I checked for continuity and there was none. So this says it should be fine. Well, i have checked wiring and have been told by another honda-tech member that i will have to replace my distributor as these sensors are internally located within the distributor. I did notice that the inside of the distributor there is some brown dust, not a whole lot but there is some present.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by se93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did notice that the inside of the distributor there is some brown dust, not a whole lot but there is some present.
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The brown dust is coming from the bad bearing in the distributor. It allows the shaft to move sideways a bit causing an erratic signal from the sensor. That's why it throws a code but tests good.
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The brown dust is coming from the bad bearing in the distributor. It allows the shaft to move sideways a bit causing an erratic signal from the sensor. That's why it throws a code but tests good.
It is true, the distributor was defective. I just installed a known properly working unit and no more check engine light and the car runs so much better now.
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From: Two blocks from the beach, CA, United States
my motor is a b18c. i just took off the distributor cap and there was no brown dust inside. Could something in the wiring harness or wiring be shorting out? How would i go about checking the wiring, also could my msd have fried something inside the distributor? The weird thing is that the check engine light doesnt always come on, only when its hot and sometimes when i get on it or have been driving it for a while, but it has noticibly been getting worse and more frequently, at one point the car was really driving like ****, its really inconsistant.
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Plug your distributor back in and unplug your ECU. check the pins right at the ECU. Not sure exactly which pins. look in a service manual for that. Do this to make sure your ecu is reading the TDC sensor, not just your DVOM reading the plug at your distributor.
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do u mean check continuity? ohms? obviously not voltage since voltage wont be applied. Check on the harness or ecu? the other side of the plug on the distributor?
After i thought the problem was fixed (code 8 TDC Sensor) by installing a mint condition distributor, the code came back again. I took my helms out again and measured voltage from the distributor plug and the ecu harness and everything is within specifications. Checked for continuity and none at all. From the helms manual standpoint, it all points to the ecu. Has anyone had this happen?
Am i missing a detail or something?
This is driving me nuts!!!!
Am i missing a detail or something?
This is driving me nuts!!!!
I ran continuity checks between the distributor 8 pin connector and the corresponding ecu harness pins and all turned out well. I decided to remove the white plastic cover found inside the distributor 8 wire plug, cleaned the 8 contact areas and reconnected it. Funny, how since i did this the problem has gone away. I don't know but maybe i had a dirty or bad connection. I have test driven the car today around 7 tiimes and everything is back to normal. I had my ecu tested on another vehicle today at work and it also worked normally.
Cars can do some strange things !!!
Cars can do some strange things !!!
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From: Two blocks from the beach, CA, United States
yeah im not really sure. Right now my car is out of commision cause im waiting for my throttle body to come back, i sent it to STR because the return spring broke. They said my TB isnt underwarrenty anymore so Scott said hed sell me a new one for cheap for my troubles. Anyways, its weird cause sometimes the car will run like a champ and then other times it will and the check engine light will come on. What were the symtoms with your car beside the check engine?
Mine would loose like 25% to 50%power and then ill stomp on the gas and then after like 3 or 4 seconds it will kick back. Then sometimes it will sputter. And then sometimes it will jerk a lot.
Mine would loose like 25% to 50%power and then ill stomp on the gas and then after like 3 or 4 seconds it will kick back. Then sometimes it will sputter. And then sometimes it will jerk a lot.
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