I borrowed my friends Impact gun to remove the crank pulley bolt. It's a craftsman with 0-3 settings on the back. I have an air compressor here that goes up to about 150psi and even more (like 200) but that gets into the red zone on the gauge. Should I just set the compressor to go up to 145-150 and then zap the bolt? Is this enough force? I dont' know how much force comes from 150psi. Or if it all depends on the gun?

 

I think 90 psi is pretty standard operating pressure for an impact gun.

I have a 33 gallon craftsman, and I just bought the Ingersol Rand 2131 impact gun. Used it for the first time last night, my crank bolt and flywheel bolts came off in under 2 minutes and that was because I was being careful. I had it set on 90 psi.

It depends more on the quality of the gun, as long as you have a compressor that can handle it. The IR goes up to 600ft/lbs in reverse, it is a pretty impressive tool if you ask me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think 90 psi is pretty standard operating pressure for an impact gun.

The IR goes up to 600ft/lbs in reverse, it is a pretty impressive tool if you ask me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahaha, that's like 5-6 times the amount of torque of my engine!!

I looked all over the craftsman gun , but it doesn't say. I didn't wanna spend more money than I had to, and so I borrowed one. At least it's not an electric one

 

solution: breakerbar with impack socket and 6 foot pipe extention. thats how mine came off, good luck with and impack gun. oh yeah me and my friend had to sit on it and bounce then it came lose.

 

was the engine in the car? I can break that sucker loose.. i've been using an impact gun... and I have the compressor set at 120 psi so far ( it can go more ), and it's not loosening. How could you use an breaker bar. There's no way to get it in there for one, and if you did, how could you turn it/ crank with it? I don't have a lift, so I can' t get it from underneath. I can get it from above and not from the front or back. The only angle I can get at it is from straight on with an impact gun.

Maybe I just have to rent one.

 

I had a situation like that before. I ended up using a floor jack on the end of a breaker bar to use the weight of the car for leverage. You'll have to put the car in gear and of course have the wheels on the ground.

 

Go buy one at sears, use it and be careful not to scratch it, then return it. Or buy one, and don't take it back, it is money well spent.

Goto thetoolwarehouse.com, free shipping for mine, IR2131 for $165.

 

crank wrench, 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar (if its in the car). out of the car, breaker bar, 1/2" ratchet and another breaker bar on the flywheel side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go buy one at sears, use it and be careful not to scratch it, then return it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont' have the money to spare right now to buy one... I'm gonna try to get one from Sears and then return it.

Ingersol Rand baby ! I need you!

EDIT* just got back from Sears witha Craftsman 19905 with 600ft-lbs of torque reverse strength.
Bolt, your mine .


Modified by sivik2nr at 2:37 PM 5/29/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">solution: breakerbar with impack socket and 6 foot pipe extention. thats how mine came off</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's how I've always done mine too.

I have yet to find an impact wrench that will remove an axle nut or crank bolt, so I'd stop effing around with $500 air guns and go buy a $3 length of chain link fence post instead. Leverage is the key.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have yet to find an impact wrench that will remove an axle nut or crank bolt, so I'd stop effing around with $500 air guns and go buy a $3 length of chain link fence post instead. Leverage is the key.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok. The new gun I got is not working. F---!!#@!@#!

I got the thing max psi and max everything, and nothing. So I guess I'll have to use a breaker bar. But there is no way to get to it with a bar. did you have the bar stickin up through the engine bay and pull it back?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sivik2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess I'll have to use a breaker bar. But there is no way to get to it with a bar. did you have the bar stickin up through the engine bay and pull it back?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, sorry, I had a long extension coming off the socket too in order to move the breaker and pipe outside of the fender well. It helps to put a jackstand under the extension to support it.

How are you stopping the motor from turning?

 

with the gun the engine/pulley is not turning. I dont' understand why. No bolt would be on with more that 600bls of torque.

If this get's fixed. I wanna sell this car. x1000

 

If you're delivering enough force to break the bolt loose, the engine will turn. Even if you have the car in gear and someone inside with their foot on the brake, the car will want to roll before the bolt breaks loose. THAT'S how much force you need. If there was an air gun that delivered the amount of tourque needed, there's no way you'd be able to hold it in your hands and get the bolt out.

I removed the clutch access cover (a biatch in it's own right when the header is on) and stuck a metal punch into the ring gear of the flywheel. This is the only way I've found to stop the motor without the special pulley removal tool. (which I now own, worth it's weight in gold!)

Hang in there. Once you've got it all figured out, you'll have it off in no time.

 

yeah i used alot of extentions and a few blocks off wood to use as the pivot point, the engine was in the car, oh yeah and i tried the stepping on the breaks thing and it doesn't work, i used so much force i was over coming the clutch. i ended up buys in teh tool from honda that alows you to jam the pulley, and the i used the breaker bar with extentions and a 6 foot pipe extention

 

I didn't have nearly this much trouble taking off mine. The impact gun didn't even strain and the bolt was pretty corroded after the engine sitting outside for a year.

I've never tried this, but what about heating it with a propane torch, . Anyone try this?


Modified by BeerMan at 4:51 PM 5/29/2003

 

it depends on the car and if it had ever been taken off, i had a 94 prelude vtec, and the bold had never been taken out, mine is torqued on there at 176 ft/lb, and its even more to get it off after its been thru all those heating and cooling cycles of the engine. i tryed heating mine and it didn't do ****. the only way is will leverage and the correct tools

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even if you have the car in gear and someone inside with their foot on the brake, the car will want to roll before the bolt breaks loose. THAT'S how much force you need. If there was an air gun that delivered the amount of tourque needed, there's no way you'd be able to hold it in your hands and get the bolt out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I got you. Anyone live in Wisconsin, that has the tool that would like to stop over and let me use it for a bit? I just order it then OR try the punch in the flywheel trick. That's my only option.

Thanks all you guys

 

the impact gun is not taking the crank bolt off is prolly because your air compressor hose is too small, you prolly need a bigger hose and oil the impact gun if those two step fails then US RENTALS for a 1" drive impact gun for working on diesiels

is the car running, drive it to sears or walmart or any auto shop an ask them to shoot it off for you then put it back on and tighten it up and hurry home then shoot it off, auto shops should be able to take it off eazliy they got the bigger hoses for their air tools
works for me all the time when i can't take a crank bolt off with my snap on impact gun


Modified by EAZY at 1:08 AM 5/30/2003


Modified by EAZY at 1:09 AM 5/30/2003

 

I read in one thread how a guy removed the large 32mm axle nut.

Placed the breaker bar in place and used the jack to press the braker bar upward. I've never tried (never thought about it) this but he claimed it worked like a champ

 

I got one of those Moroso crank pulley wrench. Made my life a lot easier.

 

Dam I don't why everbody's wasting their money on a impact gun & compressor when all you need is the moroso crank pulley tool you can buy from http://www.summitracing.com for about $60 bucks. it will hold the pulley in place and lets you break the torque off the bolt. and instead of wasting your money on a big *** breaker bar I just use a 4 foot steel pipe you can buy from home depot for a few bucks. the trick to getting the bolt off is to make sure your car is high enough so you can have enough leverage to break the torque off. that trick with having someone step on the brake is useless because it only will hold the tranny in place where the engine still is free to rotate.

easiest and cheapest route to remove the crankshaft bolt:

1. moroso crankshaft pulley tool (or similar type; oem honda)
2. 4 foot steel pipe attach to a regualr 1/2" breaker bar
3. go to the gym and use some good ol fashison MUSCLE!!!!!!
4. the torque specs for that bolt IS 134 FT-LBS NOT 174+ you'll damage the bolt and thread doing that.

for those who need a impact gun to remove the bolt you guys just need to workout at the gym like us REAL men

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. the torque specs for that bolt IS 134 FT-LBS NOT 174+ you'll damage the bolt and thread doing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

must depend on the motor, my F23 is listed at 180 ft/lbs in the Helms