Ok. I'm rethinking my whole engine build-up for my hatch. I'm looking at my pockets and not finding enough to have a fully built engine, big turbo, intercooler and stand alone management. So, I'm thinking about high-compression with a possible squeeze of nitrous...

I've searched the boards, and most people think that 12.0-1 or 12.5-1 is about the max. that you can fun on a street driven motor. Then I've seen people say that 13-14.0-1 is OK.

I'm wanting to know what kind of power to expect with a 1995 B18C1, bored to 2.0L, ported head, upgraded valvetrain, either Jun, TODA or Skunk 2 Stage 3 cams, AEM EMS, lightened flywheel, larger injectors (310cc?), JG Edelbrock manifold, TODA or Comptech header, and Thermal 3" exhaust, and good tuning can produce. Indiana has 94 octane, plus I'm not afraid to run alcohol/water injection if needed...

I'm already running a 255lph pump, and a C&R radiator, plus the 3" Thermal exhaust. (sounds good)

What kind of wheel and crank horsepower can I make with this setup? Or any reccomendations on a setup? I'll probably have Import Builders do the machinework and use their Wiseco pistons and rods...

Also, what is the max. compression to run 75-100 shot of nitrous safely at the track? I'm willing to throw a few gallons of 110 in the tank on track day...

Any ideas? Let me know!

Thanks!

 

I've seen a dyno plot of a 2.0L B18c1 with CTR cams that made 210whp/157wtq...

 

with the aem ems you should be okay up to 13:1 if you tune it well. i've seen cr-vtec's making close to 235 whp and 160wtq. i donn't know enough about nos to tell you what the safe compression ratio is to spay 100 at but at 13:1 imo i wouldn't go over a 50shot if that

 

Can I ask you why you are running a thermal 3" exhaust?????

 

I'm running a Thermal 3" because I bought it and had it put on the car, thinking I was going turbo. I'm running it now, and it doesn't seem to be hurting my stock acceleration... I'll change it out if need be...

I'm also wanting to know what kind of power can be made with a higher rev-limit, plus building the block as in my previous post... Say, 10,000rpm?

I'm just wanting some sort of bad-*** motor, and I'm not afraid to skimp on the good stuff to make it hold together and make power...

Any more ideas?

 

You mean your not afraid to not skimp on the good stuff?

 

Right! Sorry, I'm NOT afraid to NOT skimp on the good stuff...

I figure in the long run, high-comp will end up cheaper to build and run than turbo for me...

Any ideas?

 

is this gonna be a daily driver or solely a track car? cause you could probably go as high as 14.5:1 (maybe 15:1) if its a drag only car running 110 all the time, if its just a daily driver you'd want to do something more like 13:1 tuned perfectly on like 93-95. I'm gonna be running 11.5:1 on my b20b as a daily driver with a fpr as my only tuning device for a while w/ 93

 

The car will mostly be a driver, though I plan to drag and autocross it occasionaly. Mostly drag, that's why I'm curious about the nitrous.

So, what can I expect with a 13.0-1 motor, with a 10,000rpm rev-limit, and all the good stuff?

Any ideas on a setup other than the one I posted in the first post?

 

yes, balance and blueprint your engine, at 10k balancing the engine is really important. and blueprinted is somehow important.

 

Yup, plan on it... Also plan to have the block sleeved for safety...

I've found some cam specs, and was wondering what would be the way to go.

TODA:
SPEC A IN 220 (6.0) - 290 (11.6) - 240 (9.0) Type-R* $460
EX 220 (5.5) - 280 (11.2) - 240 (8.5) Type-R* $460

SPEC B IN 250 (11.0) - 295 (12.0) - 250 (11.0) TODA Valve Spring Kit $490
EX 250 (11.0) - 285 (12.0) - 250 (11.0) TODA Valve Spring Kit $490

SPEC C IN 250 (11.0) - 295 (12.5) - 250 (11.0) TODA Valve Spring Kit $550
EX 250 (11.0) - 295 (12.5) - 250 (11.0) TODA Valve Spring Kit $550

JUN:
TYPE1 INT 60 (240) 5.3 75 (300) 10.9 64 (256) 8.5 1004M-H001
EXH 65 (260) 8.0 75 (300) 10.0 61 (244) 4.8 1004M-H101

TYPE2 INT 60 (240) 5.3 75 (300) 12.0 65 (260) 8.0 1004M-H002 Sepecial valve spring required.
EXH 63 (252) 8.0 75 (300) 10.9 61 (244) 4.8 1004M-H102

TYPE3 INT 60 (240) 6.5 76 (304) 12.0 63 (252) 9.0 1004M-H003
EXH 63 (252) 8.7 76 (304) 11.5 60 (240) 6.2 1004M-H103

Skunk2:
Stage I IN. 0.456, 252 EX. 0.426, 249 305-05-0140 Valvetrain upgrade recommended. CARB EO pending $796.88

Stage II IN. 0.485, 266 EX. 0.466, 262 305-05-0145 Valvetrain upgrade required $849.00

Stage III IN. 0.504, 270
EX. 0.465, 279 305-05-0150 Valvetrain upgrade required $849.00


I know I'll have to upgrade valvetrain, and I'll probably use whatever manufacturer I choose for cams.

Let me know opinions.

 

i've heard that the skunk2 type 2 is a really good camshaft and is better than the jun type 3, but do a search, and you will find people's opinions.
i try once to get opinions on valvetrain, but nobody wanted to give me opinions or at least tell me which brand to use. so good luck

 

Of those cams I like the Jun 3s best. All the charts I've seen though, show them running out of breath around 9300. I'd set your redline near there. I'm doing something similar with my GSR, though I'm initially limiting C/R to 11.7:1, not re-sleeving, and using Crower 63403 cams. Since you mentioned importreview, I'm sure you've seen the performance dynos there, but if not have a look.