'97 civic cx, just put in new '97 ex wiring harness and modified it to fit my '95 JDM h22a. Anyway, I got my new wiring harness and added everything /extended everything that needed extended... I did it perfect... it looks real clean. Plugged it in, hooked up hondata adapter harness to prelude p13 ecu. The random misfire is gone. I can throw it in 5th and floor it at like 15mph and it won't misfire. Idles great. But it still has this starting problem from a quick gas at idle.

Let me re-iterate. If I give it gas from a warm idle quickly, it sounds like its starving for air. It doesn't seem to suck in the air it needs or something... the best word I can describe for it is "hesitation". Not sure if ita a miss or not... can't tell really... but if I ive it gas quickly, it takes a while for the motor to get up to speed. Once it reaches , oh say 2500rpms, it runs great. If I give it gas slowly it will get through the whole range beautifully.

I'm open to any suggestions. I was soo hoping it would run beautifduly aftter a whole new wiring deal... sooo close.

 

so, you're saying when you floor it below 2000 rpm it bogs? That sounds normal to me. It happens with all manual vehicles ive driven. Especially if you are just cruising along in say fourth at 1800 rpm, then floor it while still in fourth, it will bog till it gets higher in the power band, then pull like usual. Thats why you downshift, and launch at high rpms. If you launched at 2000rpm, it would "hesitate".

HTH,

-Nick-

 

this is definitely not normal. It will do it at idle when I'm in neutral, too. It sounds bad, and it defiintely shouldn't happen. It kind-of pulsates until it hits a certain rpm

 

hmmm, maybe get a VAFC and get that puppy tuned? Fuel may be whacked out.

 

Well, it didn't do this when I first put the motor in. I don't know if its a big coincidence, but it started happening right after I upgraded my intank fuel pump (warlbro 255). The thing is: I put the stock one back in, and it still did it.

I've got a fields, but I think that that is kind-of avoiding the problem.

 

From my personal experience, from your description, it sounds like its running rich. Too much fuel and not enough vacum at lower rpm's to compensate for the fuel. Im not the expert on engine swaps but I would definatly look into any wires that are related to the fuel management. An apexi fuel monitor would definatly help diagnose the issue but not really fix it in my opinion. The engine should run up to par with out any modifications. After you get that down, then modify. You did'nt say that teh computer was throwing any codes so im going to assume that it is'nt. Although you did a motor swap, I would still think that your local Honda service department could use there diagnostics computer to help determine the problem. Let us know how it goes.


[Modified by Steve Berman, 11:37 AM 7/26/2002]

 

Do you smell/see fuel out the exhaust?

Do you have any idea, of what your fuel pressure is?

Has the fuel filter been changed lately? Installing the new pump and the higher pressure along with it, "might" have knocked some crude lose. Long Shot.... hehehe

Pull your plugs and check their color... Hopefully, that should give you some kind of clue, on wheather it's leaning out, or riching up on you.

Just some tthoughts...


[Modified by 88_SC_CRX_Si, 8:46 AM 7/26/2002]

 

I don't smell or see fuel now that I have fixed the misfire. Fuel pressure is about 1-2 psi above helm spec. I changed the fuel filter right after I changed my motor. Here's the thing: I changed my intank fuel pump to a warlbro 255.... and the very next time I started my car this problem started. The thing is: I put my stock pump back in, and it still did it. Big coincidence?maybe....

Plugs are a nice tan color.

 

Ok... I'm thinking fuel becuase I can hear the ari rushing in and the a/f gauge dips lean until it catches... could it be inejctors? It runs fine over 3000rpm... I changed the fuel filter and pump already...

 

Have you checked the cam/crankshaft alignment....

 

Well, both the cam gears up arrows are aligned with each other. the thing is, it didn't use tot do this. I did the swap, and it ran fine for a couple weeks, and then this started.

 

 

Well, I haven't done that... but like I said, it worked fine for a couple of weeks and then this began. How do you check that?

This started happening literally as soon as I upgraded my in-tank pump to a warlbro 255. I switched back, and the problem ddin't got away. Injecors? I've done my intank pump and fuel filter... what else can go wrong with a fuel system?

 

You need to check the crankshaft, along with the cams if you did not already... It could be off, but your cams would still be lined up...

 

would this have cahnged somehow over the period of a couple weeks? I haven't touched the timing belt once.

 

when you put in a 255 lph pump, the volume per psi will be greater...it wil flow that much better. I think you are ultra rich for that period before 2500 rpm and then the a/f is not so rich... if i were you, id set it at the lowest setting that pump will allow for, i think youll find you cant make the pressure lower than 40 psi with the hose off...that is how efficent that pump is...i ahve the holley 255 fi unit, same as yours prolly, and i my fp cant go lower than 40 with the fpr backed all the way off...just so happens that is still a tad high for the psi (taking into account my goal for a great afc/fuel pressure compromise) but i compensate w/ my afc...

 

well, I don't have an adjustable FPR.... but I have a fields fuel controller. Can I try to compensate with the fields by leaning out in the 2500rpm range?

Should I pick up an adjustable fpr? I think I might get the B&M commandflo setup...

 

you can try, lean it out in large increments and see if it improves...like start @ -10%....the thing is, that field box has a very limited adjustment span, it works off of manipulating map sensor voltage, tinyu adjustment to say the least- which is optimum for fine tuning trim settings, not major reductions in tune like compensating for maybe 15 psi too much fuel... I love rasberry


[Modified by builthatch, 3:58 PM 7/29/2002]

 

Could this be bad injector(s)? I can use my buddy's peak-and-hold 240cc's just to try it out, but can they increase +30% to give me a chance of trying this out? I'm probably just going to buy some 440cc somewhere, but if htye dont fix it, I don't know what else to do.

Could my distributor be bad?

 

bump

 

I ran it again today... did the mod on the endyn site.. drillied a hole in my fpr to lower idle fuel pressure.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/

Started it up... same problem..... killed the car in mid hesitation. Pulled the plugs to look at them: RICH RICH RICH. The tips are all black and there was fuel on each of the 4.

What now? Could it be the distributor not firing at low rpms? I've changed al ignition components excpet the distributor itself. any thoughts? This is finally a usagle clue

 

I would try the new injectors. Maybe you have one that is sticking open or not shutting all the way. Did you listen to them with a stethescope or a long screwdriver to see if they are clicking? It's got to be a fuel problem if it happened when you put the Walbro in. Not a coincedence.

 

Cool... I've got an aem fuel rail and FPR in the mail, and I need to source some new injectors pretty bad. The thing that strange is that wehn I upgraded my pump, it started. Its gottten progressively worse since then. Changineg back to the stock pump didn't fix it.

I can hear all the injectors clicking

 

servion, any luck with your problem? I've got the same exact problem in my H22 Accord. I'm using stock injectors and stock accord fuel pump. I have however played around with the fuel pressure, idle screw, tps sensor, changed my distributer, cap, rotor, plugs, wires..etc but to no avail. One thing i notice tho is that the hesitation/bog is worse when my headlights and foglights are on. (blipping the throttle) so i'm leaning towards a bad or going bad alternator ???