Timmay

ok just did a z6 head on a y7 block(mine me) got it all on did a valve adjustment .005 and .006 get it all done and start it up. WTF valves are ticking loud as a ****. i know i did them all in spec and did them in the right order everything like that. is there something im missing here or what i just cant figure it out?????????????

skribblah

sure its the valves? might be the injectors.

superthug

i did the same thing u did, and after the valve adjustment my engine sounded like a diesel truck. ANd the idle was up and down. It's not the injectors. I think i bent a valve. I just bought a head yesterday, planning to swap it in. Was ur engine cooled down when u did the adjustment?

Timmay

i know its in the head i can put my ear on the valve cover and its loud. yes motor was cool when i did them, i dont think a valve is bent car seems to run fine

superthug

well we're on the same boat then

either the valves are out of specs or bent vavles, even chipped vavles make noise

im going to do a compression test to see whats up

HONDADNA

[QUOTE=Timmay]ok just did a z6 head on a y7 block(mine me) got it all on did a valve adjustment .005 and .006

you clearance seems wrong to me. I would recheck those spec's again- all honda's generally have +/- .02mm. however, the spec's you have are close together.
example, a 96 accord has spec of IN:.010(.25mm) ex:.012(.30) +/- .02mm - see the clearance gap's? also remember that the engine needs tobe cold - honda recommend 50 - 60 degree F.

Timmay

im also gonna do a compression test, .005 and .006 should work fine for clearance, and yes the engine was cooled down.
i just cant figure it out

senpai

My manual says for 92-95 Civic:

.007-.009" intake
.009-.011" exhaust

HONDADNA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im also gonna do a compression test, .005 and .006 should work fine for clearance, and yes the engine was cooled down.
i just cant figure it out</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is no need to do a compression test; for, you are not losing compression, right? you're having a noise problem, not so much power. You'll just be second guessing your self and ended chasing your tail!

superthug

i just did a compression test on my b18a
165 all the way across
one of my friends told me that it could be my pistons making that noise. It's making a really loud noise.

and get this after the compression, my car won't start, i think the starter went out. Just great.

hybridEj6

did you forget to put back in the FI fuse? or it might of broke while taking it out

altoid

do it at 100 degrees F. Thats what they all say adjust at 100 degrees F...

NonovUrbizniz

like mentioned...

Did you check the fuse I hope you pulled...

Are you sure you didn't just drain the battery doing the test?

Those numbers are low... acceptable but NOT ideal... it should be around 170 or higher... but that's by no means HORRIBLE... and evenness across the board is more important than actuall number.

Also those tollerances are not ok... why do you think they measure these things... it's an EXACT number for a reason... adjust the valves properly...

it's
.18-.22mm (.007-.009in.) Intake
.23-.27mm (.009-.011in.) Exhaust

And I know you've said already once or twice but you HAVE to have the engine DEAD cold... UNDER 100 degrees F... NOT at or above...

Timmay

what fuse are you guys talking about pulling? im going to try to do a compression test tommrow and check my timing. the car doesnt have the power like it should im peaking at 9psi and it feels like 4. so i think either i may be 1 tooth off on the belt , lost compression somewhere or who knows what.
im going to re do the valve lash tommrow .007 and .009 but i dont think thats gonna make it any quieter its pretty loud.

1 reason i think its not feeling right is its a z6 head on a y7 block but im still on the DX ecu so no vtec yet, but the car feels gutless

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Timmay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what fuse are you guys talking about pulling? im going to try to do a compression test tommrow and check my timing. the car doesnt have the power like it should im peaking at 9psi and it feels like 4. so i think either i may be 1 tooth off on the belt , lost compression somewhere or who knows what.
im going to re do the valve lash tommrow .007 and .009 but i dont think thats gonna make it any quieter its pretty loud.

1 reason i think its not feeling right is its a z6 head on a y7 block but im still on the DX ecu so no vtec yet, but the car feels gutless</TD></TR></TABLE>

the fuse is the fuel injector or ecu fuse... you pull it to prevent gas from pouring into the cylinder while you test the compression... you should also be sure it's not going to be sparking (although this isn't as important as long as the fuel is shut off).

You certainly aren't going to be feeling much of a power increase w/o vtec... my z6 is a pig just about all the way upto vtec... and your dx computer can't possibly be putting enough fuel in there....

Did you do the intake manifold/tb also?

As far as the ticking I'd bet money (well if I had any) that the proper adjustment will do it... mine were not far out of spec and they were loud as hell... they're still pretty loud even properly adjusted...

Timmay

y7 block
z6 head and I/M
y7 T/B
z6 t- belt
z6 head gasket
right now DX ecu but have a p2p EX to put in just gota change some wiring

deepgreengsr

you probably did it wrong!!! take it to a mechannic!!!

Timmay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably did it wrong!!! take it to a mechannic!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt do it wrong i know that .im going to redo them to .007 and .009 se if that helps at all.

and i know i wont feel much of a difference without vtec but its slower right now on 9psi than it was on 5psi, so i think im loosing compression somewhere

superthug

no man i didnt pull no fuse. I just let the car warm up and pulled out the sprakplugs and did the test. I read on g2ic.com on the threads that its not necessary to pull the fuse. So its not my starter then?

NonovUrbizniz

You should pull the fuse or dis-able the fuel delivery somehow other wise you are an accident waiting to happen...

Did you pull all the plugs at once or one at a time... if all at once you will need to retest... it may explain the low numbers.

I don't know if it's your starter... you've givin NO info on what it's doing... of course it's kinda funny that I'm answering YOUR question in someone elses thread though... JACKER.

My guess was you wore out the battery... have you tried jumping it?... I'd try that before I went out and bought a starter.

superthug

NonovUrbizniz, i got the car started. The engine had too much fuel in it so it wouldnt crank. But it started now and i let it run for 10 min.

I know it someone else's thread but we're after the same problem. Even after the vavle adjustment, the freaking knocking noise is still there. I think it might be the piston hitting since i mishifted.

NonovUrbizniz

have you tried adjusting your timing? you could just be pinging... try retarding the ignition timing... that may solve your problem.

HONDADNA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably did it wrong!!! take it to a mechannic!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

you took the words out of my month. if your not close to the problem - guy, just take it to dealer. I really do think that you have no clue to what you are doing. you say you do - You can't even do a compression test right. That right there tells your lack of know how's. I do mean to offen you; however, it's true believe or not.

Just take to some one that knows what they are doing or your going to be on this topic fooooooooooooor eveeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer!

Timmay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDADNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you took the words out of my month. if your not close to the problem - guy, just take it to dealer. I really do think that you have no clue to what you are doing. you say you do - You can't even do a compression test right. That right there tells your lack of know how's. I do mean to offen you; however, it's true believe or not.

Just take to some one that knows what they are doing or your going to be on this topic fooooooooooooor eveeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer!</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you talking to me or someone else? what do you mean i cant even do a compression test right? i know exactally how to do a compression test, oh thats right casue i did one. you should read who posts what. and as for the valves ticking was becasue the timing belt was off casue the z6 head and y7 block dont match up tdc like normal you have to play with it to get it right. everything is going great right now all quite and everything. and as for take it to a mechanic ive been doing honda swaps/mechanic work for a while and i know what im doing. i mde this post casue i know there are alot of smart people on here that maybe could point something out that i may of missed. for those of you that helped thank you

superthug

Timmay i think he was talking to me. I'm just trying to learn from my mistakes man. And no way im gonna pay someone to do something I can do myself. First time for everything. Usually i follow the helms and i have no mechanical knowledge at all. But i have done my clutch last year just by reading the book. Anyways, I'm going to check out the timing if its right, that might be the problem.