Hello HT,
I have been building my 90 integra. ive replaced the bottom end and added a b16 head (LSV) and connverted to OBD1. For the 1st few times i would hear the fuel pump prime with the key in the on postion, But wasnt getting any spark. I started to throw parts at it (Ignitor, Coil, Main fuel relay,Recleaned thermostat ground) nothing. then i started to notice my walbro 255 fuel pump isnt priming. I double checked ever fuse in the car and they all seem to check out ok still nothing. I checked to see if my ecu is getting power by switching my ecu with a hondata equipped Ecu and the power light comes on with the key turned. and the Check engine light stays on with the key in the ON position. I also double checked the OBD0-OBD1 jumper harness on the dizzy to make sure its fully locked and pluged in. any ideas where to start or test? THanks for any help.

 

What CEL's are being thrown?

 

I can't get a cel code to throw. Although it seems like the cel light is dimmer than usual, i was thinking it was a lose ground. But no luck. I was also searching around and got to thinking maybe is my ignition switch? Although The starter cranks but maybe it's not transfering power to the main relay to power the dizzy and fuel pump.

 

I'm confused, the CEL is on but you can't get the code? Didn't you state in your first post that it stays on with the keys turned to the ON(II) position?

 

Sorry for the confusion. It stays on with the key in the on position, but i could not get the hondata to pick up any codes. Today I'll try and do it by jumping the pins to read the code. I was depending on the s300 to display the errors and codes.

 

Gotcha, yea jump the service connector and see what codes you get. Then I would start doing some tests around the distributor and fuel pump connections. Test the coil, make sure it's getting power and functioning properly, then see if your pump is getting power when the key is turned on. Usually when the CEL is dimmer or barely flickering like you described, it can be a loose ground. Are you sure all are cleaned and secured? Got the one to the valve cover? Where are you not getting spark? At the coil? Plugs? Which ECU are you running?

 

I removed the ground to the valve cover and relocated it to the back of the head to strut tower and added one from the transmission to the body. I even added thicker cables.in not getting spark at the plugs seems like. when i cranked the engine the test light would display power to the ignitor on 2 pins. So it seems light power is getting there. To be honest I'm not positive which 2 they where (no pun intended) because my friend was checking, while i turned the engine over. I'll pull the lower panel off tonight and double check to make sure there isn't any ground under the dash that i missed. But honestly i don't recall any under there. I'm trying to do everything i can before dropping the tank to check the pump. In my g2 integra it isn't as easy as eg/dc/ek. Its frustrating because it did prime because i adjusted the fuel pressure a day ago. Then when i replaced the main relay it worked then it just quit. I'm GUESSING it could be the ignition switch giving out. Making the pump work intermittent. I have no problem buying these items because it's a 25 years old and i rather do it all now than later. So I'll do a series of things tonight. I'll replace the ignition switch, as I'm under there I'll double check the grounds under the dash and even add another one on the valve cover.pull codes via service jumper

 

Ignition switch would be another good idea to check before dropping the tank again and going through all that. Real quick again, what ECU are you using?

 

I believe p72 for the hondata one and p28 for other I'll double check once i get home. Thanks for all your help

 

Ok added new ignition switch and ground. One ecu isn't marked and the other is a hondata equipment p72. I've uploaded a p28 basemap. I have a very dim check engine light and it's soild. I cannot get it to flash any codes nor will they read on my hondata.?? When i turn my ignition switch to on. I can faintly hear the relay twitching on and off if i put my ear to it. That makes be think its a grounding issue. I checked the g101 ground on the thermostat housing and it's clean and tight with a new bolt. How can i check the relay for ground? The fuel pump did prime and main relay did work before. That's why I'm not completely sold on no ground.

 

possibly a short somewhere, also how strong is the battery?

did the car work fine before you changed the head and converted to obd1?

 

The car worked perfect and the Battery is fully charged i just purchased it. I'm thinking a short.

 

Ok so i have fuel. My thermostat pipe wasn't tighten down all the way causing a weak ground. Awesome. Now I'm not getting spark and getting code 20. Lose wiring �� so I'm trying to back track everything because ending is new and shouldnt have this problem

 

so you bought the car and it randomly did this? or you bought the car, it ran fine, and then you did "work" on it and it stopped working?

 

The car worked perfectly before doing the ls/v and converting to obd1. Im thinking bad jumper harnesses or dizzy. I bought a new ignitor and coil.

 

If i bought a new coil and ignitor wouldnt that be all the problem areas in the dizzy?

 

CKP?

 

Good News! It was the distributor! It fired up but dies right away but.. it only does 1 revoultion before dying. I thought it was just low on fuel, but i added 4 more gallons. it was a OBD0 then i converted to OBD1. I kept the OBD0 injectors and kept the resistor box. I replaced the ignition switch,main relay and distributor. i have a feeling the injectors are not working properly. is there a way to check? i see i have proper fuel psi via my FPR. i triple checked my timing and its perfect. i can post pictures tonight. i also added a new TPS sensor and the voltage isnt set yet. i serached online and that should pevent it from starting. BUT i also could not get a reading from my voltameter on the red wire. Maybe there related??? anyone have any ideas where to go from here? Thanks for all the help.

 

bump

 

Do a quick compression test to rule out compression being the culprit. Did a quick search and found this that might help https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...oblems-864332/
Not sure if you have a pin out for the conversion harness but I would try to follow each pin to the ecu and make sure they're correct. Which base map do you have on the P28?

Edit: Found this too. Go through each step and make sure you have everything correct...http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...s-(obd-0-obd-1)

 

Thanks 09chaplak! those are awsome finds. i'll double check the connectors on the pin outs on the dizzy. Those are the same problems my car is having sounds like. it fires up and falls on its face. I'll check the plugs and check if TDC sensor polarity reversed.

So i checked the voltage to the injectors and the TPS sensor and they checked out to have 12v(injectors) and 5v(TPS). I tried to adjuest the TPS by myself using pins at the throttle body but i couldnt get a clear reading,it was pretty akward. Today i'll have a friend read it at the ECU while i adjuest the sensor. I did play with the distributor advancing it and retarding it and got the cough to last a little longer before stalling out. Im hoping my tps senor is way off and making the engine fall on its face before ideling. im hoping i can get the thing to idel so i can get a timming light on it.

 

Are you getting 5 volts or 0.5 volts at closed throttle? Big difference there. Should be around .5 at closed and 4.5 at WOT. Does it make any difference if you give it gas while starting up or right before it dies?

What basemap are you running on the P28?

 

Ok so I adjuested the tps sensor to the proper voltage,still no nothing. I kept cranking and cranking and got the cel light to come on cel 20(ELD)This being in a 90 integra my fuse box didn't come equipped with that. I went into the s300 and disabled the ELD option. The car fired up but would only run when feathering the throttle. I noticed the fuel psi gauge bounce between 20-40psi on my aeromotive FPR. I disconneted the vacuum line to see if I smell fuel and sprayed soapy water on the FPR to check for a leak. Nothing. But I would think my problem doesn't have to do with my dizzy. I noticed my injectors humming/buzzing with the key in the on position. Is that normal? I would think next would be my fuel pump but it primes? It's a brand new walbro 255. I would pinch the return line but it's a braided AN.

 

Voltage is set at. 5 at closed throttle. If i give it a little gas it had kept it alive. I tried again and nothing. Pulled the plugs and they were black and damp with fuel,the top of the pistons had black carbon with wet fuel. I pulled the main relay and gave it a few cranks to help blow out any excess fuel,dropped a bit of oil in each cylinder and cranked it some more. I left the plugs out to dry out the plugs and combustion chambers. I have cocked vacuum nipple on the back of my AEBS intake manifold l. Looks like it might have been dropped in the past. Maybe I'm having a vacuum problem seeing my fuel psi bounce. I'll try and seal around it and install a vacuum plug.is there a way i could test vacuum or any other sensors via my s300?

09chaplak- If you help me get this thing running so i can get it to my local tuner I'll gladly donate $20 via PayPal!

 

I'm assuming the dampness is from all the cranks trying to get this started.duh! But it appears pretty black for only 1-2 minutes running. This was easily wiped off. I bought a remain cardone dizzy. The coil and icm looked like they never replaced them. Maybe my spark is too weak to burn the fuel. I never thought twice about testing it. I have the icm and coil i bought from the local parts store tonight I'll replace to test.