Here are my numbers for each cylinder both dry and wet....

#1---- 170lbs(dry) 175lbs(wet)

#2---- 30lbs(dry) 50lbs(wet)

#3---- 180lbs(dry) 190lbs(wet)

#4---- 170lbs(dry) 190lbs(wet)

My mechanic told me that it is the valves and not the rings...he said they mihgt be burnt valves...

Some histroy on the car...

I just pulled the plugs they are grayish-white, means i am running lean right? which could be the reason why i have a burnt valve(s).

I do not burn oil in between oil changes, and i change it every 3,000 miles...i also use synthetic oil....

I talked to a machine shop and he told me to check my valve lash to see if it is to tight(which he said could lead to burnt vavle(s))...how do i check my valve lash?

Anyother ways to check to see what exactly is wrong, so i have an idea before i pulled my head off?

Also are there any other things to check or consider that could be wrong with my car and that would contirbute to these numbers?

Any help would be great guys thanks...

 

I say pull your head and you will be visually able to tell if ur alves are burnt, and if it isnt burnt thne u kno its ur rings, but thats awfully low to be rings....but i dunno either way ur gonna have to take ur head off to fix it so u might as well instead of wasting more time scratchin ur head while the heads on.

 

i understand this, but i am going to nee to borrow money to fix this problem so beofre i start going and asking for cash i would like to get an idea of what might be wrong and that way i can ask for the right amount of money so i do not have to ask twice( i hate borrowing money from family and friends) this is why i am pondering what might be worng)...thank you for your help though...

 

i think its valves

 

If the cylinder barely went up when you added oil, I'm 95% its valves. Do a leakdown to isolate whether its intake or exhaust. Ever had nitrous on the car or overrevved? I bet it will be your exhaust valves, they are the most prone to injury.

 

Do I understand correctly that you don't know how to adjust the valves, but are considering removing the head? Spend a few bucks and get the shop manual. It explains very thoroughly how to adjust the valves. A compression test on incorrectly adjusted valves us useless. If a valve is too tight, it won't close all the way and will let compression out, acting like bad valves.

The way to do it before taking anything apart, is to adjust the valves, compression test, then leakdown test. If you can find someone who has the tools for the leakdown test, it does not take long and can pinpoint where any leaks are first.

And whitish grey sounds about right for plugs on modern gas. The additives they use in gas now will leave deposits like that. Too lean will leave the insulator super white like those teeth whitener commercials.

 

No i can sdjust the valves fine, the guy at the shop made it soun like something different then just simply adjusting the valves.. i will go adjust them and see what happens..thank you for your time....