help with b18c
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 214
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From: baltimore, md, usa
help with b18c
i have a 91 crx si, i just got my b18c last night, i think it is an obd1 moder (2 gray plugs on distuber) my first question how to wire the distuber up to the crx harness? or should i run an ls distuber w/ the stock p72 and a conversion harness. also what about the injectors do i nead to chang them to peak-hold or are they allready?
i want to keep the stock manfold at the moent. thanks
i want to keep the stock manfold at the moent. thanks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: MN
Re: help with b18c (dash)
Have you tried a search, I remember this was cover a few months ago and there was alot of info. given? I also have a 91 Crx si and swapped in a b18c not too long ago. I modified my stock si harness and it worked great, running all obd1.
Stormin Matt made a post back then about the obd0-obd1.
Stormin Matt made a post back then about the obd0-obd1.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: baltimore, md, usa
Re: help with b18c (CrxSi10)
thats what i want to do and would not be a big prob. but the cumputer i have (p72 small body type) has no conectors so i nead a jumper and then i nead to wire up the disy.... some how 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: MN
Re: help with b18c (dash)
It's easy, email a guy on this forum called Blownhatch for a obd0 to obd1 harness, comes with instructions and works great. As for the distributor follow this write up by StorminMatt, works great for me.
Alot of people have asked me about this lately. So I figure it would be better to make one post here to direct everybody to rather than having to send separate emails to everyone. Also, it will be available to everyone who is interested. As with the ECU plug chart, I am not perfect. So let me know if you find any discrepencies. In any case, there are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and relocate the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has a yellow/green and a black wire connected to it. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. And the plug has a green and black wire connected to it. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. When you cut this plug from the 1992-1995 harness, make sure to leave enough wire connected to it so that it will reach to the thermostat housing.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge valve. The MAP sensor plug may actually reach the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. If you extend it, you may want to use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it).
8. Depending on the model Civic/CRX you have and the engine you swap in, you may need to extend or shorten a few wires (like the TPS, IACV, etc.) in order to make the harness fit better. If you must lengthen wires, it is easier if you just cut the plug from the 1992-1995 harness with the length of wire you need. You will then only need to make one solder per wire. It will also look neater. Of course, the 1988-1991 plugs WILL work for any of the other plugs which I did not specifically say must be changed.
In order to change the ECU plugs, take a look at the post I made on January 19 of this year. And once again, let me know about any discrepencies or omissions I may ahve accidently made.
A number of people have asked me how to change the 1988-1991 ECU plugs to 1992-1995 plugs in order to use a 1992-1995 ECU for any one of a number of applications (SOHC VTEC, 2G B16A, 1992+ B18A/B18B, B17A, B18C, etc.). I figured it would be best to just make one post with this information rather than having to email everybody separately with this information. There are a couple of things to remember here. I personally prefer the numbering system whereby the pins are numbered across rather than the zig-zag system used by Honda. But I realize alot of people may prefer or are used to the zig-zag system. So for each pin (on each plug style), I list two locations for the same pin. The first is given by numbering across. The second (in parenthesis) is by the zig-zag numbering (I hope it is correct). In case I made any errors in conversion AND to make the process of changing the plugs over more goof proof, I also give the color of the wire on the 1992-1995 plug and 1988-1991 plug for the given pins. This should give you a better idea of whether you are connecting the wires together correctly. Also, the first set of pin numbers and wire colors are all on the 1992-1995 plugs and the second, the 1988-1991 plugs.
A plug (1992-1995 plug)
A1 (A1) ----> A1 (A1)
brn --------> brn
A2 (A3) ----> A2 (A3)
red --------> red
A3 (A5) ----> A3 (A5)
lt. blu ----> lt. blu
A4 (A7) ----> A14 (A12)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A5 (A9) ----> A5 (A11)
grn/wht ----> blu/yel
A7 (A13) ---> B13 (B6)
grn/org ----> grn/org
A8 (A15) ---> B2 (D3)
blk/red ----> yel
A11 (A21) --> B8 (B15)
red/grn ----> wht
A12 (A23) --> A9 (A2)
blk --------> blk
A13 (A25) --> A6 (A13)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
A14 (A2) ---> A4 (A7)
yel --------> yel
A15 (A4) ---> (VTEC)
org/wht ----> (your choice)
A16 (A6) ---> (O2S heater)
org/blk ----> (your choice)
A17 (A8) ---> A15 (A14)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A19 (A12) --> B12 (B4)
yel/grn ----> yel/grn
A21 (A16) --> B3 (B5)
wht/yel ----> wht/yel
A23 (A20) --> A11 (A6)
red --------> grn
A24 (A22) --> B9 (B17)
red/grn --------> wht
A25 (A24) --> A10 (A4)
blk --------> blk
A26 (A26) --> A17 (A18)
blk/red ----> blk/red
B Plug (1992-1995 plug)
B1 (B1) ----> A7 (A15)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
B3 (B5) ----> B14 (B8)
blu/red ----> blu/red
B5 (B9) ----> B7 (B13)
blu/wht ----> blu/wht
B6 (B11) ---> B15 (B10) **
org --------> org
B7 (B13) ---> C2 (C3) **
org/blu ----> org/blu
B8 (B15) ---> C1 (C1) **
blu/grn ----> blu/grn
B9 (B2) ----> A16 (A16)
brn/blk ----> brn/blk
B13 (B10) --> B18 (B16)
yel/blu ----> yel/red
B14 (B12) --> B16 (B12) **
wht --------> wht
B15 (B14) --> C10 (C4) **
wht/blu ----> wht/blu
B16 (B16) --> C9 (C2) **
blu/yel ----> blu/yel
D Plug (1992-1995 Plug - NO C plug on 1992-1995 Plugs)
D1 (D1) ----> B1 (B1)
wht/blu ----> wht/grn
D2 (D3) ----> (Knock Sensor)
red/blu ----> (your choice shielded wire)
D5 (D9) ----> B17 (B14)
pnk --------> blu
D6 (D11) ---> C4 (C7)
red/blu ----> red/blu
D7 (D13) ---> C11 (C6)
red/wht ----> red/wht
D8 (D15) ---> C3 (C5)
red/yel ----> red/yel
D9 (D17) ---> C6 (C11)
wht --------> wht
D10 (D19) --> C8 (C15)
yel/grn ----> yel/red
D11 (D21) --> C15 (C14)
grn/blu ----> grn/wht
D12 (D2) ---> C13 (C10)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
D13 (D4) ---> B20 (B20)
brn --------> brn
D14 (D6) ---> (VTEC Pressure Switch)
org/blu ----> (your choice)
D16 (D10) --> B10 (B19)
grn/red ----> grn/red
D18 (D14) --> C16 (C16)
wht --------> wht
D21 (D20) --> C7 (C13)
yel/wht ----> yel/wht
D22 (D22) --> C14 (C12)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
The pins marked ** connect to the distributer sensors (crank angle, TDC, and CYP). The reason I marked these is that while 1988-1991 and 1992-1995 cars both use the same color wires collectively for these sensors (org, org/blu, wht, wht/blu, blu/grn, blu/yel), wires of a given color do NOT necessarily connect to the same sensors in the 1992-1995 cars as in 1988-1991 cars. So if you check the Hasport pinout, the connections I gave will be incorrect. However, it is actually easier to just match up like colors. If you do this, just remember to match the proper colors on the distributer plug as well. In other words, the org wire on the 1988-1991 engine harness goes into the same spot on the 1992-1995 distributer plug that the org wire went to on the 1992-1995 dash harness.
Just don't confuse the fat white wire with this thin white wire on the distributer plug of the 1988-1991 engine harness. The fat white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the fat yel/grn wire on the 1992-1995 harness went (on the 1992-1995 distributer plug). But the thin white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the thin white wire on the 1992-1995 harnes
StorminMatt
As for the distributor follow this write up by StorminMatt, works great for me.Alot of people have asked me about this lately. So I figure it would be better to make one post here to direct everybody to rather than having to send separate emails to everyone. Also, it will be available to everyone who is interested. As with the ECU plug chart, I am not perfect. So let me know if you find any discrepencies. In any case, there are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harness rather than trying to make the 1992-1995 harness work. The changes are as follows:
1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforeward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harness as on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harness into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harness. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harness. The exception is the fatter wire for the ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harness and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harness. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harness. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.
2. Change and relocate the thermoswitch plug. The thermoswitch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has a yellow/green and a black wire connected to it. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. And the plug has a green and black wire connected to it. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harness and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harness. When you cut this plug from the 1992-1995 harness, make sure to leave enough wire connected to it so that it will reach to the thermostat housing.
3. Change injector plugs and eliminate the resistor. This is fairly straightforeward if you have an HF/SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributer. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!
5. Add the four wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harness for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harness. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.
6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.
7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge valve. The MAP sensor plug may actually reach the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. If you extend it, you may want to use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it).
8. Depending on the model Civic/CRX you have and the engine you swap in, you may need to extend or shorten a few wires (like the TPS, IACV, etc.) in order to make the harness fit better. If you must lengthen wires, it is easier if you just cut the plug from the 1992-1995 harness with the length of wire you need. You will then only need to make one solder per wire. It will also look neater. Of course, the 1988-1991 plugs WILL work for any of the other plugs which I did not specifically say must be changed.
In order to change the ECU plugs, take a look at the post I made on January 19 of this year. And once again, let me know about any discrepencies or omissions I may ahve accidently made.
A number of people have asked me how to change the 1988-1991 ECU plugs to 1992-1995 plugs in order to use a 1992-1995 ECU for any one of a number of applications (SOHC VTEC, 2G B16A, 1992+ B18A/B18B, B17A, B18C, etc.). I figured it would be best to just make one post with this information rather than having to email everybody separately with this information. There are a couple of things to remember here. I personally prefer the numbering system whereby the pins are numbered across rather than the zig-zag system used by Honda. But I realize alot of people may prefer or are used to the zig-zag system. So for each pin (on each plug style), I list two locations for the same pin. The first is given by numbering across. The second (in parenthesis) is by the zig-zag numbering (I hope it is correct). In case I made any errors in conversion AND to make the process of changing the plugs over more goof proof, I also give the color of the wire on the 1992-1995 plug and 1988-1991 plug for the given pins. This should give you a better idea of whether you are connecting the wires together correctly. Also, the first set of pin numbers and wire colors are all on the 1992-1995 plugs and the second, the 1988-1991 plugs.
A plug (1992-1995 plug)
A1 (A1) ----> A1 (A1)
brn --------> brn
A2 (A3) ----> A2 (A3)
red --------> red
A3 (A5) ----> A3 (A5)
lt. blu ----> lt. blu
A4 (A7) ----> A14 (A12)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A5 (A9) ----> A5 (A11)
grn/wht ----> blu/yel
A7 (A13) ---> B13 (B6)
grn/org ----> grn/org
A8 (A15) ---> B2 (D3)
blk/red ----> yel
A11 (A21) --> B8 (B15)
red/grn ----> wht
A12 (A23) --> A9 (A2)
blk --------> blk
A13 (A25) --> A6 (A13)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
A14 (A2) ---> A4 (A7)
yel --------> yel
A15 (A4) ---> (VTEC)
org/wht ----> (your choice)
A16 (A6) ---> (O2S heater)
org/blk ----> (your choice)
A17 (A8) ---> A15 (A14)
grn/yel ----> grn/blk
A19 (A12) --> B12 (B4)
yel/grn ----> yel/grn
A21 (A16) --> B3 (B5)
wht/yel ----> wht/yel
A23 (A20) --> A11 (A6)
red --------> grn
A24 (A22) --> B9 (B17)
red/grn --------> wht
A25 (A24) --> A10 (A4)
blk --------> blk
A26 (A26) --> A17 (A18)
blk/red ----> blk/red
B Plug (1992-1995 plug)
B1 (B1) ----> A7 (A15)
yel/blk ----> yel/blk
B3 (B5) ----> B14 (B8)
blu/red ----> blu/red
B5 (B9) ----> B7 (B13)
blu/wht ----> blu/wht
B6 (B11) ---> B15 (B10) **
org --------> org
B7 (B13) ---> C2 (C3) **
org/blu ----> org/blu
B8 (B15) ---> C1 (C1) **
blu/grn ----> blu/grn
B9 (B2) ----> A16 (A16)
brn/blk ----> brn/blk
B13 (B10) --> B18 (B16)
yel/blu ----> yel/red
B14 (B12) --> B16 (B12) **
wht --------> wht
B15 (B14) --> C10 (C4) **
wht/blu ----> wht/blu
B16 (B16) --> C9 (C2) **
blu/yel ----> blu/yel
D Plug (1992-1995 Plug - NO C plug on 1992-1995 Plugs)
D1 (D1) ----> B1 (B1)
wht/blu ----> wht/grn
D2 (D3) ----> (Knock Sensor)
red/blu ----> (your choice shielded wire)
D5 (D9) ----> B17 (B14)
pnk --------> blu
D6 (D11) ---> C4 (C7)
red/blu ----> red/blu
D7 (D13) ---> C11 (C6)
red/wht ----> red/wht
D8 (D15) ---> C3 (C5)
red/yel ----> red/yel
D9 (D17) ---> C6 (C11)
wht --------> wht
D10 (D19) --> C8 (C15)
yel/grn ----> yel/red
D11 (D21) --> C15 (C14)
grn/blu ----> grn/wht
D12 (D2) ---> C13 (C10)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
D13 (D4) ---> B20 (B20)
brn --------> brn
D14 (D6) ---> (VTEC Pressure Switch)
org/blu ----> (your choice)
D16 (D10) --> B10 (B19)
grn/red ----> grn/red
D18 (D14) --> C16 (C16)
wht --------> wht
D21 (D20) --> C7 (C13)
yel/wht ----> yel/wht
D22 (D22) --> C14 (C12)
grn/wht ----> grn/wht
The pins marked ** connect to the distributer sensors (crank angle, TDC, and CYP). The reason I marked these is that while 1988-1991 and 1992-1995 cars both use the same color wires collectively for these sensors (org, org/blu, wht, wht/blu, blu/grn, blu/yel), wires of a given color do NOT necessarily connect to the same sensors in the 1992-1995 cars as in 1988-1991 cars. So if you check the Hasport pinout, the connections I gave will be incorrect. However, it is actually easier to just match up like colors. If you do this, just remember to match the proper colors on the distributer plug as well. In other words, the org wire on the 1988-1991 engine harness goes into the same spot on the 1992-1995 distributer plug that the org wire went to on the 1992-1995 dash harness.
Just don't confuse the fat white wire with this thin white wire on the distributer plug of the 1988-1991 engine harness. The fat white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the fat yel/grn wire on the 1992-1995 harness went (on the 1992-1995 distributer plug). But the thin white wire on the 1988-1991 harness goes where the thin white wire on the 1992-1995 harnes
StorminMatt
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