Hear knocking when cold starts on fresh build.
Recently built my motor and when car sits for hours and I start it, it seems to tick kinda sounds like a knock for about one second then quickly goes away.
Setup
B18c w/ 81.5mm wisco pistonss, Scat H-Beam Rods with ACL Main and rod bearings standard size.
Arp main studs and head studs
Stock oilpump
....could this be my problem?
Setup
B18c w/ 81.5mm wisco pistonss, Scat H-Beam Rods with ACL Main and rod bearings standard size.
Arp main studs and head studs
Stock oilpump
....could this be my problem?
If it has more of a scraping knocking ring to it, that would be the pistons slapping, and the noise is from the lack of oil on the bore surface. If you have an oil pressure gauge you can confirm this. The jets open at around 25-30psi. When you crank the car over, your needle will raise and around the 30psi mark, the needle should briefly flutter, these are the jets opening up. About a half a second later, the noise should diminish as the jets are now spraying the pistons (and the walls indirectly) with oil.
This is normal operation, and is nothing to be worried about.
This is normal operation, and is nothing to be worried about.
Indeed, it is probably just piston slap which is common among aftermarket pistons. Either that or your machine shop bored the block to 81.55mm vs 81.50 and that is giving you issues.
It can also mean too much clearance in the bearing. The noise happens until the pressure comes up enough. I think this is more typical with high mileage motors. Just throwing it out there.
Thank you slow civic and 94 integra. very usefull info
It Does it like you said about 1 secoond then goes away, I droped my oil pan today and checked everything out and visually every thing is good
and shinny and all the oil squirters are still intact
One more question. My oil light doesnt go off when the motor cranks(ecu unpluged and just turning engine over)shouldnt it still builf oil psi when cranking? But when it starts the light goes off.
I think i might need a external oil guage
It Does it like you said about 1 secoond then goes away, I droped my oil pan today and checked everything out and visually every thing is good
and shinny and all the oil squirters are still intactOne more question. My oil light doesnt go off when the motor cranks(ecu unpluged and just turning engine over)shouldnt it still builf oil psi when cranking? But when it starts the light goes off.
I think i might need a external oil guage
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you slow civic and 94 integra. very usefull info
It Does it like you said about 1 secoond then goes away, I droped my oil pan today and checked everything out and visually every thing is good
and shinny and all the oil squirters are still intact
One more question. My oil light doesnt go off when the motor cranks(ecu unpluged and just turning engine over)shouldnt it still builf oil psi when cranking? But when it starts the light goes off.
I think i might need a external oil guage</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally aftermarket pistons do it until they have warmed up and expanded a bit (couple minutes). You wont build enough oil pressure to turn the light off unless the car is turning a constant 500+ rpms (faster then the crank spins it). Oil quickly runs out of all the holes in the engine (ie, crank journals, oil squirters, cam girdles, etc)....however the faster the engine spins the more oil it pumps and the higher the oil pressure goes (since it has limited places to go).
It Does it like you said about 1 secoond then goes away, I droped my oil pan today and checked everything out and visually every thing is good
and shinny and all the oil squirters are still intactOne more question. My oil light doesnt go off when the motor cranks(ecu unpluged and just turning engine over)shouldnt it still builf oil psi when cranking? But when it starts the light goes off.
I think i might need a external oil guage</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally aftermarket pistons do it until they have warmed up and expanded a bit (couple minutes). You wont build enough oil pressure to turn the light off unless the car is turning a constant 500+ rpms (faster then the crank spins it). Oil quickly runs out of all the holes in the engine (ie, crank journals, oil squirters, cam girdles, etc)....however the faster the engine spins the more oil it pumps and the higher the oil pressure goes (since it has limited places to go).
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