So first of all let me start off by saying the car in question is a 1999 Civic DX with a K20A2 with KPro (which reads no codes)

Also up until a week ago the car was running perfectly fine with no issues and had been doing so for about 18 months.

About a week i noticed that my car was having a hard time starting.

So i went about changing the fuel map to factory map although after talking to the guys at imports sports they told those maps are absolute ****, so now i am back on servion tuned map like it was prior to the hard starting issues.

Then i changed the fuel filter that seemed to help a little (at least i know have a clean unit in there.)

I checked my FPR to see if i there was any small amounts of debris in it, there wasnt so then i put a different one that i got from a friend and it behaved the same way.

(The needle will spike to 50psi when priming then drop to zero the next minute, I AM NOT SURE IF IT SHOULD DROP OR DESCEND GRADUALLY??? )

Let me now take you through the squence i having been using to start the car.

First i'll get in turn the key twice and let the fuel pump prime twice(i can hear the pump prime while sitting in the cabin ), i proceed to turn the key and it cranks but doesnt fires (it is similar to a carbed engine in that if you could pump the gas pedal a few time it would start but you cant do that will fuel injected).

I proceeded to do this about 3 times. Then i sat there a minute and waited and tryed again and it started like nothing had happen at all. It runs and idles like there is nothing wrong.

I did take some comp #'s 5 months ago got some dodgy number although it doesnt burn oil and still gets good mpg (30) and pulls really good (butt dyno).

I think that it might be a fuel pump issue as it is still the factory pump that has about 180k miles on. As i have yet to install a walbro.

WAS WONDERING WHAT YOU ALL THOUGHT.....

Thank You

 

Most likely the fuel pump. Try priming it a couple times before cold starting until you get a chance to replace it.

 

yeah the cold seems to be when the issue is most most noticable (ie: in the morning as i am in colorado or late at night)

should i replace with walbro or oem

 

If fuel pressure drops to 0 PSI right away, I would check the fuel pressure regulator, pressure should stay at whatever you set it at, mine, [aftermarket adjustable] stays at the 48 PSI I set it at for days. 94

 

Definately a possibility. Any leak in the system could cause the same problem, including a stuck open FPR. However, since you've already tried replacing the FPR once and the fuel pump has 180k miles on it, I strongly reccomend getting a replacement pump first. I'd get the Walbro stock spec pump (190lph). It'll be a better buy and probably last longer than a parts store OEM pump. Since your pump is so old, you should replace it even if doesn't fix the problem. I expect it will, though.

 

the system is completely leak free so unlikely that is the issue

also the fpr is an aeromotive unit (compact efi) that is roughly 18 months old.

also as delsolproblems said and i stated i have put a different fpr that behaves the same way although it possibly the second fpr could be bad, but unlikely since the car it came off of was running properly.

 

So how come you lose fuel pressure as soon as ign. is turned off?

The FPR should not allow fuel to return to tank below the set pressure.

If you have no leaks and the FPR is good, it only leaves the pump, fuel getting back to tank past the fuel pump, although I have never seen a pump that can get you 50 PSI that has "blow back" so bat that you drop pressure to 0 right away.

Maybe a poor connection at the pumps outlet, [leak is in the gas tank].

As mentioned, it can't hurt to replace the stock pump anyway. 94

 

so i recently changed the fuel to walbro 255 no help

some one else on k20a.org
seems to think it could be the main relay
what do you guys think??

also

for instance there has been times when i proceed to try to start it crank on it nothing, then i put it in 1st gear and push start it and it runs fine.

could this still be the main relay (master relay)?

 

Sounds like the check valve on the outlet of the pump is bad. Fuel should not back feed through the pump. It should stay 'trapped' between the pump and pr valve.

You could install an in-line check valve after the pump, or just replace the pump.

edit: since you just did that, i have no idea.