Got Fuel Pressure, No Spark?
Well it was a problem before with the ls engine. So the guy didnt want to spend the money on that engine so he did a jdm gsr engine. No light comes on the dash maybe a bad bulb or problem with the wiring harness because it was a problem before and now also.
could be the ecu also
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main relay controls fuel pump, I believe. Check your igntion components, like your ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main relay controls fuel pump, I believe. Check your igntion components, like your ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Ignitor is in the distributor. So that got changed during the swap.
well its a jdm engine, ecu, and would think its something else not engine or distibutor related since it was having the problem before the swap and it still is a problem i need a electrical wiring diagram to check voltage reading.
What does the MAIN relay under the dash control? I am getting fuel and that relay clicks when in the ACC position?
well its a jdm engine, ecu, and would think its something else not engine or distibutor related since it was having the problem before the swap and it still is a problem i need a electrical wiring diagram to check voltage reading.
What does the MAIN relay under the dash control? I am getting fuel and that relay clicks when in the ACC position?
10 amp fuse, t-stat, v-cover, and transmission grounds are all good!
Where can i check for voltage at the distributor coil and ignitior?
Where can i check for voltage at the distributor coil and ignitior?
When you turn the key to 'on' to let the fuel pump pressurize the system, does the CEL come on for 2 seconds and then go back out? The ECU should always illuminate the bulb when starting the car, but go out after a second or two.
The coil and igniter receive battery voltage through 2 fuses: #30 (80A) and #32 (50A). Your looking for a Blk/Yel wire at the distributor to check for available voltage. If that checks out alright, then using your meter, look for 'activity' on the Yel/Grn wire while cranking the engine. This is used to trigger the igniter.
Let us know what you find.
The coil and igniter receive battery voltage through 2 fuses: #30 (80A) and #32 (50A). Your looking for a Blk/Yel wire at the distributor to check for available voltage. If that checks out alright, then using your meter, look for 'activity' on the Yel/Grn wire while cranking the engine. This is used to trigger the igniter.
Let us know what you find.
I am a shop actually but not for honda, I work for toyota and do not have access to a honda ewd. I had to disconnect an alarm system that had a starter kill switch, a stereo system, some cheap cd changer, air horns, and also an aftermarket electric antenna. So ya there have been alot of cut wires thats why i wanted to know where i should have voltage for the ignitor and cam sensor activity.
Are the 80 A and 50 A under the hood or dash on the 90-93 integra?
No check light comes on at any time,so either a blown bulb,cut wire,ecu problem, or fuse?
Modified by crxhybrid1320 at 6:11 PM 11/5/2003
Are the 80 A and 50 A under the hood or dash on the 90-93 integra?
No check light comes on at any time,so either a blown bulb,cut wire,ecu problem, or fuse?
Modified by crxhybrid1320 at 6:11 PM 11/5/2003
check your fuses first and btw how do you know you are getting fuel pressure? When you turn the key on does the Check Engine Light come on? If light does come on and if you are getting fuel pressure, check your ignitor and coil...
NO the light does not come on when the key is in the ACC position.
Also you can hear the fuel pump turn on and pressure at the fuel rail when the 22mm is loosened.
Also you can hear the fuel pump turn on and pressure at the fuel rail when the 22mm is loosened.
Well I just found a EWD online, and it has the entire Ignition circuit from the battery to the ignition to the igniter and so on. It labels all the colors of the wires also. What is the Pinout location for the MIL on a OBD 0 computer. Im going to cut and apply 12v to this wire to see if the light comes on.
Well I have 12.6 volts to the black wire into the coil and all fuses are good including the fuses in the engine compartment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... What is the Pinout location for the MIL on a OBD 0 computer. Im going to cut and apply 12v to this wire to see if the light comes on.</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't do this until you look at the rest of that circuit. It might be that all idiot light bulbs have +12v on one side, and the ECU closes it's wire to ground when it wants to light the lamp.
To check the ignitor, you should get battery voltage on the yellow with green wire when the ignition is on. You can check this at the distributor or the ecu. It doesn't matter.
I switched the ECU with a factory ecu and it started but only for a second. Now with the factory ecu it primed thats it. Now its getting spark and continues to run if spraying carb cleaner or something flammable into the intake manifold. Could this be the fuel pump main relay under the dash.
With the factory obd 0 ecu no codes in the ecu so i dont think its a problem with any sensor!
JAson
With the factory obd 0 ecu no codes in the ecu so i dont think its a problem with any sensor!
JAson
the main relay controls the fuel pump. maybe its your injectors? cuz u said you have spark and fuel but if its cutting off maybe its the injectors or the regulator? =0/
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