i'm looking at the gude bullforg and crower. not sure witch to go with

 

For which head- vtec or non? Do you plan on upgrading springs and retainers, ecu, etc with the cam? boosted, juiced or NA?

 

d16z6 NA yes sprinsg retainers and yes ecu

 

crower. Made from blanks unlike gude which are regrinds and wear very quickly.

 

yes i did more research and found that i'm going with full crower and soem type or ecu any ideas witch

 

Hondata.

 

to much money

 

I remember reading about the Zex cam for the d16z in Import Tuner about a year ago. Apparently it got big gains in the mid range with the biggest increase being 11 hp in the mid range. I think it moved the entire powerband up so it wasn't good for just the top end.

 

NOt all regrinds wear out. the poorly made ones do and especially the DOHC vtecs are known to wear out. but as far as the SOHC/SOHC vtec regrinds. they work just fine. I cannot share enough of my experiences. with my own car the cam i had was in there for 3 yrs at about 100K miles. still bustin 13's on the stock block. if they do flatten out, i havent experienced that since the car still pulls the same HP on the dyno after the 3 yrs,

Wil

 

Crower 3 requires porting. Since you are going w/ springs and retainers, I assume you are looking at Crower 2 NA. To make reliable, decent power with this cam, you need to spend some cash. Some sort of fuel trim control and VTEC control; A chipped p28 from CHEETAH and a VAFC would be perfect.


[Modified by GTI 1.8t, 2:36 PM 12/27/2002]

 

yes teh crower 2 is what i'm looking at. well i talked to hyperducktunning an di'm going to the a chip from them and i have a 190 fuel pump in already. Anything else i will need?

 

Adrian might be able to get you close to what you can make with that cam, but w/o VTEC x-over info for that cam (from the manufacturer or a dyno) and without the ability to trim his fueling maps, you will be missing out on some power. THis is why i stress the VAFC. Hyperduck is excellent and you are more than safe with the 190 pump.


[Modified by GTI 1.8t, 3:15 PM 12/27/2002]

 

You really don't need to chip unless you get one tunable. The chips are all variants of the Mugen chip made for the DOHC with stupid high lift cams and 13:1 compression on race fuel.

Your performace will be increased a little but your easy driving gas milage will drop to about 18 mpg on stock cams. Imagine what it would be on a Stage 2!

A port and polish would better suit your needs until you can afford a ECU that can be tuned to your specific design.
Remember, Hondata's start at only 245!
http://www.hondata.com/s100.html

IMO a Chip is a waste of money unless you can get your hands on one for under 60.

 

Im not using any kind of chip and I have seen good gains in power, nothing documented from a dyno or anything but it feels really strong.. I want to do some sort of hondata but no money for anything right now... defiantly get the P&P if you can it will make a difference...

 

KEVCP- Butt dynos are the most unreliable dynos around and are not my usual choice for performance info, but, out of curiosity, did you notice a huge difference with the 2, low wend, high end? I assume you added springs/ret to the mix; what about cam timing, did you play with that at all?


[Modified by GTI 1.8t, 6:43 PM 12/27/2002]

 

also very interested in teh info you have

 

I think with all the mods together make a big difference I think the cam needs head work to achieve its maximum Potential. Low end power not much of a gain mid and high I noticed a significant difference in power. I started to toy with an SI one day when I began to pull on him he backed down, I was in third and dropped it to second and got 1/2 a length. And yes I did get the springs and retainers and no cam timing adjustments have been made nor do I plan too.