Golden Eagle Deck Plates.....
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
I just sent my block out to them to get sleeved and deck plating. I am a turbo guy. The question is when I get it back from them the original 1.8 will not be a 1.8 what would it be a 2.0 or 2.2. If I wanted to make it a 2.2 or 2.0 what would I need. I know my pistons would work. I know i need new rods. Can I keep my stock crank.???
Help a honda-tech member out!
Help a honda-tech member out!
Gee, shouldn't you have thought this out before sending it to GE? Your stock crank will work but NOT with stock pistons and rods for sure. Would need to know what block you sent, what your final bore will be and what crank you will use to determine size. Most everyone here has no hands on experience with working with the deck plate blocks. I think u should talk to GE to find out how to accomplish your goals. I build lots of short blocks but really don't know exactly how GE attaches the plate to the block and then exactly what bolts or studs are used.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
I have b18a block. So to accomplish 2.2 i need a 95mm crank. I have 83mm arias pistons already.
Would the b20 crank do any good.
I know my turbo/ and engines and stuff but I am clueless about stroking and stuff.
Would the b20 crank do any good.
I know my turbo/ and engines and stuff but I am clueless about stroking and stuff.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
if you are not decking your b18a/b i think its 84mm like he said. But if you ar gettin the Ge deck plate. You need 84.5 mm pistons, and 95mm crank. Someone correct me if Im wrong. I am realy serious bout making the 1.8liter a 2.2 ls/vtec turbo. My car is not coming out till the 03 season. Also whats Eagles webpage.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
Okay here's a question. Why are some people telling me that you can use the stock crank and some people say you have to use the 95mm crank. Also if i put the b20 crank in, and get custom rods, and pistons would it be a 2.3. But I think I am just going to go 2.2 on the safe side.
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From: at last finally back to sweet home, sunny north cali, usa
here are some pix of the GE block with deck plate earl...
http://ghettoracer.com/misc/deckplate/
have you guys ever heard of GE sleeved blocks leaking and them telling peopel to use bars leak to fix it?? i heard it in the rumor mill and i have a hard time beliving it. i guess i'll call up vince and ask.
http://ghettoracer.com/misc/deckplate/
have you guys ever heard of GE sleeved blocks leaking and them telling peopel to use bars leak to fix it?? i heard it in the rumor mill and i have a hard time beliving it. i guess i'll call up vince and ask.
Nice pix on your site, Frank. Thanks. It looks to me like the spacer plate is bolted on with smaller fasteners around the head bolt openings. Do they install heli-coils into the top of the block? Since no combustion reaches where the block and plate meet, I guess there would be no way for it to leak. Smart.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
If you are doing a LS/Vtec do we still have to run the oil line from the back of the block?? Just wondering?? Also do we need to get a aftermarket Eagle Crank. So we need a 95mm Crank from eagle, what size pistons and rods for a b18a/b to reach 2.2.
But then I hear from someone else you just need Stock crank, longer rods, custom pistons.
SO WHATS THE TRUE STORY BEHIND THE 2.2 STROKING?? Thankz
But then I hear from someone else you just need Stock crank, longer rods, custom pistons.
SO WHATS THE TRUE STORY BEHIND THE 2.2 STROKING?? Thankz
If you are doing a LS/Vtec do we still have to run the oil line from the back of the block?? Just wondering??
The stock deck surface of the B18a/b or B20 block, will still have no oil galley for vtec. And the GE deck plate wont have it either.
Just a guess.. Im not GE.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
YO ghettoRacer how much did you pay for your crank and rods. Also what kind of rod are you using.
As far as stock crank vs eagle stroker crank goes, you could just use the stock crank with longer rods, but all you'll do is get less side-stress on the pistons; you'll still have 1.8L displacement because the pistons is still travelling the same vertical distance.
The eagle stroker crank (95mm stroke) combined with 151.5mm rods and an 85mm bore will give you 2.15L of displacement (requires deck plate). This combination will actually make the piston move further down in the cylinder, thus creating more displacement. The 83mm Arias pistons may-or-may-not work. It depends on the compression height (the distance of the wrist-pin from the top of the piston). Some of the stroker-kits have a short compression height to allow for a longer stroke, so if you used your stock-stroke pistons, the piston might go past the top of the deck at Top Dead Center.
Eagle is coming out this week with some really nice rotating assemblies (crank, rods, pistons, rings and wrist-pins) for the B16, B18 A, B and C, B20, and even the new Dart and Deck Plate blocks. All of their kits come with either SRP or JE forged pistons, 4340 H-Beam Rods, and a 4340 Crank. They also offer a light-weight/knife-edging option on all the kits that takes 7 pounds off the weight of the crank. Almost all of the kits are available from 8.9:1 CR to 13:1 CR in some cases.
If you're interested in prices and what your options are for displacement/compression ratio, give me a call at 1-800-591-9171 and ask for Matt. We can have almost any of these kits in stock in literally 2 or 3 days. I'm hoping to have a full specs/price list posted on our website for the end of the week (right now it's still all domestic small/big block V8 info).
-------------------
Matt
Golen Engine Service
http://www.golenengineservice.com
1-800-591-9171
The eagle stroker crank (95mm stroke) combined with 151.5mm rods and an 85mm bore will give you 2.15L of displacement (requires deck plate). This combination will actually make the piston move further down in the cylinder, thus creating more displacement. The 83mm Arias pistons may-or-may-not work. It depends on the compression height (the distance of the wrist-pin from the top of the piston). Some of the stroker-kits have a short compression height to allow for a longer stroke, so if you used your stock-stroke pistons, the piston might go past the top of the deck at Top Dead Center.
Eagle is coming out this week with some really nice rotating assemblies (crank, rods, pistons, rings and wrist-pins) for the B16, B18 A, B and C, B20, and even the new Dart and Deck Plate blocks. All of their kits come with either SRP or JE forged pistons, 4340 H-Beam Rods, and a 4340 Crank. They also offer a light-weight/knife-edging option on all the kits that takes 7 pounds off the weight of the crank. Almost all of the kits are available from 8.9:1 CR to 13:1 CR in some cases.
If you're interested in prices and what your options are for displacement/compression ratio, give me a call at 1-800-591-9171 and ask for Matt. We can have almost any of these kits in stock in literally 2 or 3 days. I'm hoping to have a full specs/price list posted on our website for the end of the week (right now it's still all domestic small/big block V8 info).
-------------------
Matt
Golen Engine Service
http://www.golenengineservice.com
1-800-591-9171
I also would like to know if they use heli-coils in the block.
Use the oil feed fitting avaliable from Z-10, its cheap, fast, and reliable. It screws into the back of the oil pump itself so there is no drilling into the block.
If you are doing a LS/Vtec do we still have to run the oil line from the back of the block?? Just wondering??
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
I WAS getting ready to purchase a Dart block really make a downpayment on one. But then I was looking at the rules for: NHRA, IDRC, Imstar Racing, Battle of the imports etc.. They do not allow them. THe dart blocks bare run nat 2050.00 they will come out in about 2-3months. They are taking deposits right now $500.00 deposit. BUt back to the Deck plates. I really want my B18a sleeved and decked block to =2.2 ls/vtec long block. All the help will be needed. Thankz. You will also need to get custom thrust washers and bearings right.
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From: WTF DC Racer No Way Turbo Washington., DC, USA
I was organizing my magazines today and found a article of a b18a deck plate and it was stroked to a 2.2 from rs motor works. They used the following: B18a Block, 95mm crank from a old school prelude(was knived-edge as well), 156mm rods which would give the rod a ratio of 1.64, 1 b18a thrust washer, and 1 rs motorsports thrust washer, 1inch deck plate, unknown size custom pistons, then it was mated to a gsr head with custom rs cams, mikuni 44mm carb's. ALl motor there setup dynoed 235hp and 185lbs tq.<--Ls/vtec
MY setup hopefully will be the same but Turbocharged instead. etc... Just read my bio.
Check I need to find my car again. IT was stolen last night. GO to Members corner for more info.
Information was found in the Turbo magazine 2001 may issue on page76.
MY setup hopefully will be the same but Turbocharged instead. etc... Just read my bio.
Check I need to find my car again. IT was stolen last night. GO to Members corner for more info.
Information was found in the Turbo magazine 2001 may issue on page76.
"have you guys ever heard of GE sleeved blocks leaking and them telling peopel to use bars leak to fix it?"
This is true. I have one of their sleeved b20 blocks. I was having problems with majical disappearing coolant from the overflow reservoir, and figured it was leakage at the bottom of the sleeves(where it's sealed). Called GE and THEY recommended BarsLeak. I also swithed to a 16lb radiator cap(was running the C&R supplied 30lb. rad. cap)- all seems well...
[Modified by jg, 4:59 AM 9/9/2002]
This is true. I have one of their sleeved b20 blocks. I was having problems with majical disappearing coolant from the overflow reservoir, and figured it was leakage at the bottom of the sleeves(where it's sealed). Called GE and THEY recommended BarsLeak. I also swithed to a 16lb radiator cap(was running the C&R supplied 30lb. rad. cap)- all seems well...
[Modified by jg, 4:59 AM 9/9/2002]
Here is an email I received from him a few months ago when I inquired to the deck plate:
O.K., here are the procedures below and the total cost for everything.
Sleeved
Deck Plate Installed
Decked ( O-ring optional depending on piston size, but included in total price! )
Line bored ( recommended on any block!!! )
Bored & Honed
Arias Pistons w/ Ring and Wrist Pins
Eagle Long Rods
95 mm Eagle Crank
Water Pump Idler Plate that allows the use of a stock timing belt (requires an electric water pump)
Long ARP head studs to accommodate the deck height increase
Balanced Rotating Assembly
Polished and Oil Hole Chamfered Crank
New Rod Bearings
New Main Bearings
New Thrust Bearings
Full Cleaning
New Factory Oil Pump
Blueprint and Assembly
Total is $4237.00
Price reflects shelf stock pistons. Custom pistons add $70. Some items, not mentioned above, may need to be added to the total depending on the shape of the block, crank and other items received by Golden Eagle Mfg. , sent by the customer. This is only a quote and is not a guarantee that the price quoted will be the price for completion. Golden Eagle Mfg. REQUIRES at least a 50% deposit before any work is to be started. The remaining 50% must be received before release of the product to the customer. For questions or comments, please call us at (909) 592 - 4311.
I am sorry to say that we do not sell deck plate blocks by themselves. We require the motor to be built here for reliability and performance purposes. If you have any other questions about the procedures of our builds, please let me know anytime.
Thanks for your interest and hope to hear from you soon.
Regards,
Vince Tiaga
Golden Eagle Mfg.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com
vince@goldeneaglemfg.com
(909) 592 - 4311
O.K., here are the procedures below and the total cost for everything.
Sleeved
Deck Plate Installed
Decked ( O-ring optional depending on piston size, but included in total price! )
Line bored ( recommended on any block!!! )
Bored & Honed
Arias Pistons w/ Ring and Wrist Pins
Eagle Long Rods
95 mm Eagle Crank
Water Pump Idler Plate that allows the use of a stock timing belt (requires an electric water pump)
Long ARP head studs to accommodate the deck height increase
Balanced Rotating Assembly
Polished and Oil Hole Chamfered Crank
New Rod Bearings
New Main Bearings
New Thrust Bearings
Full Cleaning
New Factory Oil Pump
Blueprint and Assembly
Total is $4237.00
Price reflects shelf stock pistons. Custom pistons add $70. Some items, not mentioned above, may need to be added to the total depending on the shape of the block, crank and other items received by Golden Eagle Mfg. , sent by the customer. This is only a quote and is not a guarantee that the price quoted will be the price for completion. Golden Eagle Mfg. REQUIRES at least a 50% deposit before any work is to be started. The remaining 50% must be received before release of the product to the customer. For questions or comments, please call us at (909) 592 - 4311.
I am sorry to say that we do not sell deck plate blocks by themselves. We require the motor to be built here for reliability and performance purposes. If you have any other questions about the procedures of our builds, please let me know anytime.
Thanks for your interest and hope to hear from you soon.
Regards,
Vince Tiaga
Golden Eagle Mfg.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com
vince@goldeneaglemfg.com
(909) 592 - 4311
Eagle is coming out this week with some really nice rotating assemblies (crank, rods, pistons, rings and wrist-pins) for the B16, B18 A, B and C, B20, and even the new Dart and Deck Plate blocks. All of their kits come with either SRP or JE forged pistons, 4340 H-Beam Rods, and a 4340 Crank. They also offer a light-weight/knife-edging option on all the kits that takes 7 pounds off the weight of the crank. Almost all of the kits are available from 8.9:1 CR to 13:1 CR in some cases.
Does anyone know the URL for the Eagle website?
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com
There are many many many combinations to bore and stroke an engine. Especially one with a modified block.
There are many many many combinations to bore and stroke an engine. Especially one with a modified block.


